Search results

I made a batch of JAOM, except that I used D-47 instead of bread yeast. I had it, so what the heck. It's been going for two months and today the hydrometer read...1.070. What the?

I see that Still Dragon has a 2" weldless bulkhead, but it seems a but pricey at $40 bucks: http://stilldragon.com/index.php/2-triclamp-weldless-bulkhead-fitting.html Brewer's Hardware has something similar: https://www.brewershardware.com/TC20M20.html?category_id=270 that looks like it...

Not really anything about the survey itself, but the email said something about the hobby being in a bit of a decline? Curious by what metric? In my area it seems like the opposite. LHS reported in a recent newspaper article that sales were up a decent amount over the past year.

I was wondering, what if, instead of dropping the temperature while the beer is still in the fermenter, you transfer to a corny with gelatin, purge and pressurize then drop the temperature. Since the keg is sealed, there's nothing to suck back with the pressure change and I'm guessing that...

I have a beer that I brewed late last year that I really had nowhere to put and it needed some aging anyway. So, I racked it to a keg, purged it and it's been sitting there, uncarbed, since 12/29. So I guess, and extended secondary. If I transfer to a bottling keg on top of a priming...

I'm a bit confused at the pH reported on the water report I received from the city. The report states that the pH is 8.9, but when I measure the water as it comes from my tap, it's only in the area of 6.5. Any ideas where the discrepancy might be? I've calibrated my pH meter (MW-101)...

During the summer, my groundwater is only able to get my wort down to maybe 75° within a reasonable amount of time without a pre-chiller and ice. Since I'm using a freezer fermentation chamber, would it be a problem to get the wort chilled as well as the groundwater can, then transfer it to...

I drew a gallon of my Chocolate Milk Stout from the keg and wanted to add some fresh cherries to it. Everything was sanitized. I pitted and roughly chopped the cherries and soaked them in vodka for about three days (in the fridge). Added the cherries, vodka and juice all to the one gallon...

I've got a Kal clone HERMS setup and I see that most people just lay the return hose on top of the grain bed. I've also see that many just open their pumps full bore while the mash is recirculating. I've tried that and find that the return really digs a groove right where the host lays and...

I know that the WY4565 has a penchant for a lingering krausen, but would lowering the temp to cold crash it help it along?

I just got my score sheets from a local contest and I'm wondering about the comments I got on my Brown Ale entry. It was the John Palmer's Elevenses from Northern Brewer and both judges noted that that hop bitterness was way too high. Now, this recipe calls for only .6oz of Northern Brewer...

Last week I brewed the Northern Brewer La Petite Orange kit (Belgian Dubbel) which had an OG of 1.046. Low for the style, but it was my first brew with my HERMs system and the efficiency was a bit off. It was mashed at 149° for 70 minutes so I know it will be dry, but the sample I took today...

I like my Hefs to be banana bombs. It's just how I am. So take two different batches of the same recipe (brewed a few months apart). The first was the way I like it, the one I'm fermenting now is really heavy on the clove. Both used WLP300 and fermented in the low 70's, 73-75°, which I...

I thought y'all might be interested in seeing a pre-made eBrew Supply 30A 2 PID panel. First impression? It's impressive. I like to tinker, but it would have taken me months to put this thing together, and I haven't got THAT much patience.

I brewed a SMaSH using my homegrown Centennial and I would like to dry hop with what's left, about 1.5oz. Any suggestions for getting them into the beer and actually submerged where they'll do any good? I though about a weighted hop bag, but those muslin bags aren't very big. At least the...

I've been looking at getting a stainless work table instead of building something out of wood, but they're all generally too tall for my hood since my basement ceilings are low. The stand I'm using now is only 24" and this one is 33.5" It'll fit under the hood, but doesn't leave any room to...

When doing the mash recirculation using a herms system, how fast do you have the wort flowing back into the tun? I imagine that having it going full bore will upset the grain bed too much (or stick the mash), but too slow and you've had problems maintaining and ramping the mash temperature.

Would a 25ft 1/2" coil be enough for a 10 gallon setup? That's 10-gallon vessels for 5-6 gallon batches. Given a choice, would it be better to go 50ft at 3/8 or 25ft at 1/2? I think a 50ft 1/2 coil might be a bit overkill as it would end up being almost the size of the vessel.

I brewed an ESB last weekend that has the follow basic recipe: 5.5 gallon batch 9 lbs Maris Otter 1 lbs med. crystal 2 oz Willamette at 60 1 oz Goldings at 15 1 oz Goldings at 5 1 pkg S-04, direct pitch Mashed 153 for 60 minutes, 10 minute mashout at 168. OG was a little low at 1.044 I've...

Can I direct fire my mash tun on the stove without fear of scorching the wort? I'm planning on recirculating with a pump. It's a cheap crappy gas stove that just barely has the guts to reach strike temp and step mash. But, I would like to try a step mash without having to rely on infusion...