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I can't fathom why a good sheet of foam like you described wouldn't do the job. Hell, the wood around a keezer as a collar for the taps works wonders in terms of insulation.

What was the OG? That yeast will top out around 12% without very special treatment.

Sometimes the great flocculating properties of WLP007 can slow fermentation, especially when under-pitched. Assuming both of those beers were about 1.055, you pitched just below the crease of a good pitching rate for that strain of yeast. But have no fear. They'll finish. Just the yeast is...

I tend to dry hop with hops I've used in the recipe. So, personally, I'd go with a blend of Cascade and Centennial. That said, 3oz of Citra is going to blow any other hop flavor and aroma out of the water, similar to the shark in Jaws. You won't taste or smell anything else. A 1/2-3/4 oz...

Brett B can be very sensitive to the sterilization properties of hops. There is a reason why there are not too many hoppy sour beers, as most, including Orval are simply dry hopped. An Orval clone would make the best use of Brett B if you've never used it before. Simple Belgian Golden ale...

Brewers Gold would be a great choice, but not noble I know. Strong black current flavor with some pine, and actually similar to Chinook in that regard. US grown Saaz can go upwards of 8%AA. I like where you're going with this, and think if you can get a good boil volume (4 gallons at least) it...

Gravity, Gravity, Gravity. The only way to know. Mead can vary depending on what yeast your used (Please Tell Us!), but a "dry" mead will usually fall around 1.010 or less, and a "sweet" mead around 1.025. But the yeast will tell you where it should be.

Did you open the Belgian White at room temp? That can cause a rush of the carbonation if so. Otherwise, if the beer was cold, it might just be over-carbed. Throwing them on ice and then a very gentle pour should be all you need to keep the head in check. This is all assuming though that you...

Get a few pieces of straw. If it goes through and doesn't get a *tad* torn up, the gap is too wide. And oldie but goodie way of testing a grain mill. Otherwise, get a piece of hard corn. When it *won't* go through the mill, you've reached your ideal crushing width.

The perfect crush is not how "fine" you can get it. You just want to crack the barley (or other grain) while leaving the husk intact for draining and sparging. A spray bottle to wet the grain while it's being crushed, usually by the factory setting, will give you great efficiency while also...

How would this be an advantage over bottle pasteurization, like how it is done now? Curious about this, but a little confused. Even homebrewers can bottle pasteurize relatively easily should they be so inclined.

A black and tan is one of my favorites. But you can also make three different beers from two, which I like to do. Take two components like an IPA and Stout or a Belgian and English Style, blend part of them, but keep the individuals. That way you get three beers out of two. Aaron

It will help, this coming from experience. That said, it does not provide the same exchange ratio as if this were an immersion chiller that had wort passed through it dipped in an ice bath. And I hate to even bring it up. But doubly make sure you are flushing your plate chiller clean.

I would bet that you're just fine. Just having a yeast flocculation issue, which we've all had, especially with wheats. That said, if you notice pronounced tart/sour/musty tastes and/or smells, that could be a horse of a different color.

I envy your dedication. Very nice setup. Besides being the greatest hobby known to man, it is one that rewards everything you put into it. Cheers!

Like another thing, you always remember your first. Good job. And cheers!

Have you cracked one open yet?

Heather tips would help, as would honey. But time will not totally strip the peat out. If you really hate it, I would try to blend it with another brew as mentioned above, or spice the hell out of it to cover the peat. Both of which are relatively easy to do.

I love that yeast for big beers, but you need to follow some rules the yeast has laid down. Pitch rate isn't as important as how much work the yeast has to do. You can either pitch the yeast multiple times during the process with nutrient, or stagger the wort additions in which you feed it...