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Autolysis is still a very real factor, i'm speaking from experience. But overall the surefire answer is taste the beer; if its good keep it, if its not don't.

Well if you look a little into spontaneous fermentation, the Saccharomyces(brewers yeast) always starts first and finishes most of the gravity, then everything else comes to play (brett, lactic bacteria, etc) over the next few months-years. So id be worried that it will sour over time in the...

taste it, it will probably taste like dead yeast(kinda like soy sauce). Keeping beer on the yeast for too long causes autolysis(yeast death) which contributes off flavors.

if you have a fridge that can accommodate your fermentor i suggest just throwing the primary in there for a day or 2 this will help settle out your yeast better than a secondary will. Some people like secondaries but I find they don't do much. But this being a hefe clarity isn't exactly a huge...

Too many hops are gonna make that beer taste like yard clippings, come back with the hop amount. Less is more with hops, there is a point where your just completely overloading senses and you taste less of the actual hops in your beer.

It's never a bad idea to do a starter, worst case you reinvigorate your yeast. Is it worth it to chance a wasted batch? Also that's enough yeast for a healthy pitch of 1 44 Litre batch with a starting gravity of 18 plato (1.074) , using 1 million cells/per degree plato/per ml.

Rule of thumb is you don't want to cool beer by more than 5 degrees a day with the yeast in the beer. The temps will shock the yeast and cause them to start falling and stop fermenting. So in your situation I'd try to pitch the yeast at the lager temp; ie, let the wort cool with the yeast and...

Shaking supposedly can only get like ~8ppm on a regular beer I assume whirl-pooling is similar. An aquarium pump on a longer cycle(~10 min on a 5gal) will usually get like 10ppm(which is what you want), for a straight o2 through a stone you'll get 10ppm in ~1 minute on a 5gal. But you can...

well it calls itself a no rinse sanitizer

bump

Found some of this J-512 sanitizer: Link for product: http://www.diverseynacatalog.com/Catalog/Product.aspx?family=215 MSDS: http://216.178.82.98/leonardpaper/pub/msds/49900/JW-4399.PDF I was wondering if anyone had ever seen it or knows if it is safe to use for equipment in place of...

do you know if it was scorching at all towards the burners? Also do you whirlpool or otherwise separate the trub after the boil? boiling longer can get a few more of those proteins and tannins to coagulate and fall out, maybe you just had more than you're used to.

Maybe your looking for something along these lines. http://www.beertools.com/html/ingredients.php?view=grains

if it stays above 150 Fahrenheit with the added DME for ~30 min its basically pasteurizing it, which is fairly safe. Getting cold tap water for the starter may not have immediate effects, but if your reusing the yeast the other critters in that slurry will pop up and make issues in fewer...

could always try to finish it with some champagne yeast if that doesn't work

What gravity did you start at? Did you aerate or add a yeast nutrient? it could be possible your yeast just petered out

Yea, guy who I bought em from bought em in cripple creek CO from a drug store said they were used for soda. He had em sitting in a barn for a few years. So I have a bit of cleaning to do. They have faded sharpie on the side, one says strawberry. I think its safe to assume they were for soda.

And thx for tellin me what they are

Was gonna fit a pressure relief and some ball locks on it, just use it for a party keg

Was gonna fit a pressure relief and some ball locks on it, just use it for a party keg