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I searched and didn't really find anything. Using BM's bottle filler, will it matter if after I bottle the bottles get warm? Currently the keg is in the kegerator but I'd like to bottle to put some aside, talking probably 3-5 months or so. The bottles would be stored around 60 degrees. Anyone...

The first time I used an auto siphon for my sparge water was the last. Made a really nice half circle after it was done.

Kinda what I figured. I've just never had this much after this long. I was planning on going at least another week until the secondary.

I just opened up my primary on a basic stout to take a hydro reading and this is what it looked like. I would like to assume this is the yeast but it's been sitting in the primary for twelve days. Usually when I pop open the primary after this long there are only a very few small...

I too cannot stand this beer. Really don't see the appeal.

Could you use a couple of aluminium or ss pots instead of the 1/4 bbls? I'm starting to look into an electric setup and this looks almost ideal.

Why not? Scorching happens with every pot. It's fine to go ahead and brew with.

It won't when you start all grain. :)

Fly sparge. I get the sparge water up to temp while I am vorlauffing sp? When it runs clear I siphon he water from the hlt through a siphon hose resting on top of the grain and open the outflow valve. One thing I learned is you need a stainless racking cane and a really cheap plastic clamp.

I am trying to correct my first esb and the carb level still seems low ar 2 vols

It shouldn't. Diluted wort is diluted wort regardless of the amount. However you did cool it off before pitching right? Sometimes those water additions are dial purpose and serve to both cool and water down the wort. As long as the wort was under 80 degrees or so the yeast should still be able...

Secondary fermentation isn't fermentation. Technically it's called a bright tank to allow suspended particulate matter to settle out thereby clearing the beer. Some would say it is essential others say its unnecessary. If you are going to secondary, make sure it us fermented fully by getting...

I would not split the batch. Read over the directions carefully, plan your brewday ahead of time, even go over it a few times for practice and then go for it. Make sure everything is sanitized and follow the directions. These things really can be difficult to screw up. Edit: welcome to the craft.

I was forced to do this once after a broken airlock. Just finished brewing, was heading out on a trip next day and lhbs was closed. Took a balloon and stretched over carboy opening. Next morning it was inflated. Didn't have a problem with the brew afterward. (I did however switch to an airlock...

I think we have a winner. When you say beefy for the cones do you mean they have a lot of girth? My cones ended up being alot bigger than I expected. Close up of the leaves...

I wrapped rabbit fencing around the bine when it first appeared. After it was a good 5 ft tall I removed it. Apparently the cones are too bitter for most animals. Can speak about deer but the rabbits and chipmunks didn't touch mine.

I'll have to reassess. I'm not that great with smell identification. I am more prone to the "that smells great let's use it" mantra. It could only be Chinook cascade or centennial. I had 6 plants and 5 of them died. The loner I moved and this year it exploded.

No it shouldn't. I just had had a batch that never got below 76° during the entire fermentation process. When I tapped it there was definitely an off flavor. However it mellowed out as we drank. Turned out just fine.

Thanks. I think I will get a relief gushed and do some experimentation testing for a write up.

Long story short I had to naturally prime a keg of esb. After talking to the lhbs and doing some reading I went ahead and used 5 oz. priming sugar for slightly more than 5 gal. I have a distinct feeling it's already over carved. So can someone read over what I plan to do and make suggestions...