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Interesting, I didn't think of potassium metabisulfite. I didn't end up adding it, but the sulfur seems to have dissipated on its own. I was planning on bottling this one, but ended up kegging it last night due to time constraints and the fact that this beer was really made for the slurry more...

Thanks! I brought the fermenter in from the 50F rest. It's now at 70ish with the spunding valve attached again and set to 0 PSI. I'm going to give it a couple days at this temp to see if it makes a difference, per your suggestion. I figured it'll be warmed up to room temp when it's...

I brewed a Patersbier (Father's Reward) using Wy3787 about 3 weeks ago. I pitched at 64F and let it rise to 68F before moving it indoors to finish up at room temp (70-71F). It hit FG within 4 or 5 days, and I let it sit in the fermenter for another 7 or so due to being busy. I always ferment in...

Great and insightful discussion! I actually completely forgot to consider apparent attenuation--that makes sense. Just as dmtaylor said above, a beer finishing at 1.020, for example, will be sweeter than a bone-dry Belgian Golden Strong finishing at 1.003, hopping/BU:GU ratios the same, due to...

Hi there, I've always been curious about how much trust I should place in the BU:GU ratio when adding adjuncts, such as table sugar or candisyrup? For example, if I brew a Patersbier to 1.044 and get 12 IBU, I'm at 0.28 BU:GU, which is more in line with hefeweizen and verges on "extra...

Yeah, I hear ya. I never pressure ferment hefeweizen, Belgians or anything yeast-driven in flavor. Hoping the main feature of the Scottish ale yeast is just a lower attenuation percentage than normal, and that the pressure ferment doesn't neutralize any subtle yeast characteristics (I couldn't...

Good stuff, I think I'll give it a shot. It seems like the risk is minimal with WY1728 not really being an expressive yeast. I'll chill to the low 60s, pitch, hit it with 10 or so PSI to start it off, and bring it in the house. I usually don't add CO2, but my BdG, also a pressure-fermented...

Thinking about pressure fermenting a batch of Scottish 80. I have temperature control, but my Biere de Garde is going to be hogging it for a few weeks. I'm also craving a nice, light-bodied, malty session ale right now--one that I can turn in just a few weeks (without going the Kveik route) and...

Thanks! And I like that heatsink idea. Lots of thermal mass for cooling wort down without heating up the water in the vessel, if I'm understanding correctly. Very green! We have a reclaim store near us--they have all sorts of things like that as they receive surplus and donated items from...

Not sure I'm adding much to this, but I wanted to share my experience and numbers. I recently built the steam condenser. Wow, what a game-changer. We converted half of our detached garage to a brewery/bar/hangout for the family (perpetually in progress), and the noisy, obnoxious inline fan I had...

I fermented a batch of Amber ale (5% ABV) and racked to the keg a few days ago. The fermenter has sat with just a small level of beer in it for 3 days. It’s in a fermzilla at roughly 68F under about 3psi as I pressure transferred (no atmospheric exposure). I didn’t think I had a use for the...

I hear ya, and I usually don't try to speed up processes, but 8 weeks at cellar temps just seems excessive when it'll be in the fermenter for several weeks, and then in the bottle for 6+ months, then under refrigeration indefinitely. Hmm.

I'm brewing a Westy 12-inspired Belgian style Quadrupel (BDSA) beer here soon and am facing a slight dilemma: The recipes from CSI's website for Westvleteren 12, St Bernardus 12, etc. call for 6-8+ weeks of conditioning at 45F after two yeast dumps, which is a long time to tie up my fermentation...

Hi, sorry what I meant was this: I treat all of my brewing water on brew day to the appropriate water profile. I build to different water profiles depending on what I'm brewing. Every drop of water I use on brew day is conditioned to the water profile I'm after. Since I don't sparge at all and...

Good questions. I have clogged the plate chiller once with pellet hop material, which was a pain in the butt to unclug, sanitize, and re-hook up during a chill. But that was also with relying on a large quantity of low AA noble hops for bittering a Tripel. In hindsight, I should've used Nugget...

Thanks! I am definitely curious about the hop spider affecting hop utilization. I was just telling my wife I want to start overshooting my target IBUs by about 10-20% just to compensate for this in case there is an appreciable loss. I did a basic 1.050 smash German Ale with noble hops to 25 IBU...

That all does make sense. I've brewed a few beers lately that just haven't turned out fantastic. I had two hefeweizens taste "industrial," like with a motor oil quality, and a couple beers that have turned out just really mediocre. Wondering if that's more a yeast pitch issue than anything else...

I should also add that I hit my preboil and OG gravities within tight tolerances, and adjust water levels and hop additions on the fly as necessary. I use liquid yeast and always make starters (except for Hefeweizen or very low ABV beers). Thanks!

Hey all, I've been brewing for about four years now and have fallen into a routine. Sometimes routines are good, but other times you end up practicing the wrong thing over and over! I was hoping a few folks could comment on my process to identify any major flaws and to check my thinking on my...

I'm also curious!