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Yeah, like the title and the question suggest, I was concerned about the max amount of grain that can fit in a 12 gallon mash tun. Like I said, I thought I was missing something and I wanted my numbers confirmed, which they have been. I'm not interested in the max SG I can get from the mash tun...

Thanks, I actually have that link bookmarked! I was just wondering if my numbers were off due to it being no sparge. With the research I've done, a lot of people act like it's not possible to make a high ABV no sparge beer in a 10-12 gallon mash tun. My numbers told me otherwise, so I just...

So I guess I'm not too far off then? I was doubting my numbers because it surpises me that I would be able to do a 12%+ ABV beer in a 12 gallon mash tun. I know that 1.25+ qt/lb is best, but I figured that 1 qt/lb is considered the minimum even though it's not ideal. Thanks for the input!

I was thinking about doing no sparge for a 5 gallon batch. I'm trying to figure out the max amount of grains that can fit in a 12 gallon mash tun (cooler). Here's an example using numbers I came up with in Beersmith: Grain amount: 35 lbs. Grain absorption: 2.56 gallons Pre-boil volume: 6.69...

Too long means hours. My chiller is an adequate size, so that's not the issue. Overall, it's just a PITA for me to chill my wort down the conventional way. I already have a container to use for no chill. I was just wondering if anyone had tried cooling in the kettle to save extra steps, but I...

I have a few reasons for going no chill. One reason is that I've had trouble chilling the wort with an immersion chiller during the heat of the summer. The tap water is very warm and, even with using a submersible pump in an ice bath, it takes a LONG time to cool it down. I end up having to cool...

Thanks everyone for your input. Good points all around. I've heard of people having no problems with leaving the wort in the kettle overnight, but I imagine it's better to be safe than sorry. Putting it in a container is just one less thing to worry about. You can only take so many shortcuts. 😁...

Has anyone had experience doing the no chill technique by leaving the wort in the kettle to cool overnight? I know that the typical way to no chill is to transfer to an HDPE container, but I've also heard that some just put Saran wrap over the kettle opening and put the lid on. My main concern...

Sometimes that's the only way to get your hop fix!

I always throw my hops in right after the boil too. I've always wondered how much of a difference the duration of a hop stand would make. I've heard anywhere from 10 minutes up to 90+ minutes. At such high temperatures after the boil, 10 minutes might be all that's needed.

I actually was planning to use a couple pounds of flaked oats for more body and mouthfeel.

Thanks for the links. Sounds like taking an Imperial Stout and decreasing the specialty malts by 25%, then adjusting the base malt to hit the desired ABV is a good place to start. Using a less attenuative yeast (probably English), doing a 45 minute mash around 156 degrees, and using lactose...

Has anyone had any experience with lower alcohol Stouts (around 5 ABV) that have the taste and consistency of an Imperial Stout? When I say Imperial Stout, I mean the kind that are fairly sweet and thick as motor oil, what some call Dessert/Pastry Stouts.

That's what I'm talking about. There's so many ways to hop beer. I would consider hop bursting to be throwing hops in at 15 minutes, 10 minutes, 5 minutes, and flameout. Yes, the hop stand increases the bitterness since isomerization is still occurring. That would scale back the "flavor"...

You can hop a beer in so many ways: first wort, bittering, hop burst, hop stand, dry hop, etc. I'm wondering if total hops added matters more than when they're added (on the hot side at least). Have you tried comparing your hop bursting with a hop stand?

I've read that full extraction from dry hopping could be achieved in 24 hours at 65-68 F. This might require some agitation to speed up extraction though. The colder the dry hop, the more time is needed. I don't think any more than 3 days at any temperature would be needed. I'd just dry hop at...

I've also noticed that more IPAs are putting most of their hops in the dry hop, which is making me question what's the most effective hopping technique. I've never been able to get anywhere close to that "smell it from 3 feet away" aroma when I dry hop. Dry hopping is also a pain in the ass when...

I've actually given some thought to leaving it in the kettle overnight. I guess there could be some risk for infection compared to transferring it to a cube, but who knows? It's definitely easy and practical. Good to know that your IPAs turned out well from that process.

Has anyone tried making an IPA like one of the following?: Hop stand only (no dry hop) Dry hop only (no hop stand) If so, what were the results and what would you consider the best technique to get the most hop flavor? Thanks

Ah, I see. By hop stand, I meant throwing hops in at flameout and doing a steep, but maybe there's a better term for that. I usually just throw flavor hops in at flameout, let them sit for 30 minutes, then chill to pitching temperature. I wasn't sure if I could get the same, if not more...