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2 gal/hr seems right to me... that's what I get brewing outside with natural gas in a 15 gallon pot.

what vessel are you using for a secondary? I never use an airlock on my secondary (a better bottle)- just some plastic wrap with a rubber band/tape or some aluminum foil over the top.

Most people see a decrease in efficiency when doing big beers - the 69% you got on the tripel kinda confirms that. I have been pretty consistent at 78-79% on normal beers, but I had 69 & 70% on a Barleywine and RIS that I did in the last couple of months. Part of the learning process is to...

I don't think you'll get harsh at 68, but you'll probably get some fruity esters that may or may not be appropriate in your beer. People like notty because it is very nuetral when fermented around 62 or even a little lower. It also finishes very dry, which can let the hops come through a bit more.

Yeah, it's a great yeast. Fast, very clean, high attenuation and performs well at low temps. I've got a batch of centennial blonde fermenting at 58 degrees - I expect it to come out very clean, almost lager-like. It's unfortunate that they had that one bad lot, I think it has turned a lot...

can you post the recipe here rather than linking to another site... can't view the recipe without registering for an account.

I think notty does really well at the low end - very clean and still fast. It's a beast when it works right. you will be fine if you leave it at that temp for two weeks and then force carb for a week.

Everything I had read says that they are identical. I would be interested in citations that say otherwise. a quick google search led me to this link. It was the only one that suggested there is a difference, but it didn't seem like the most credible source...

they're the same.

read this thread

I think a stout would be a good choice. Most people would say that the darker beers tend to mask potential off flavors better than lighter styles. But if you are already good about sanitation and controlling fermentation temps, whatever you make should turn out fine.

How long ago did you brew this beer? It could still be green, which always taste thin and watery to me. Head retention and lacing is also a problem with green beer. I think you need to give it some time.

I don't have a clone recipe, but here's what I came up with by taking my oatmeal stout recipe and bumping up the grain into "imperial" territory. 14lbs two row 1lb roasted barley 1.5lb chocolate malt 1lb crystal 40L 1lb crystal 120L 1.5 Victory 3 lbs flaked oats 2 lbs flaked barley 1.5oz...

it looks like a basic brown porter recipe, except with twice as much base malt... Maybe it's an imperial brown porter?

I used L brackets on the collar and went with a double hinge setup so that I did not have to glue anything to the freezer itself. I did have to drill extra holes in the lid for the second hinges, but the body of the freezer is completely stock (except for temperature control, of course) I put...

You must be making some error in measurement along the way - either when measuring Specific gravity or volume. Your numbers don't work out mathematically... you can predict your post boil gravity by using the formula (pre-boil gravity * volume) = (post boil gravity * Volume) convert your SG...

NB has 8oz in the silver, vacuum sealed bags. I usually buy from them in between big orders from hopsdirect.

yep, that's about it. If you have been doing full boil extract batches - going all grain is as simple as making/ buying a MLT (mash/lauter tun)

I usually don't worry about it, but I have noticed when I use Golden Promise as my base malt, the kernels are smaller than the two row, so my efficiency was about 8% lower. So now I tighten the gap a bit when doing these beers.

some people monitor their boil kettle volume so that they know when they hit their target. Evaporation rate is not always constant, it can be affected by ambient temperature, humidity, barometric pressure, wind(i'm kinda guessing on this) , etc... It's just another way to control...