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I've used Bar Keepers Friend and it works great, that's what I would recommend.

Both my fermentation fridge and keezer are working great after nearly a year...although i am still thinking I should order 2 more units in case one or both do eventually fail.

I'd recommend the Tygon B-44-3 Beverage tubing, it's what I bought and it has never leached any off flavors, not when it was brand new or now (nearly a year later). I've gone weeks between pours (I have 4 taps) and still no off flavors in any of them. This tubing is significantly more...

I scored a 50' roll of 3/8" copper today from someone on CL for $20...now there's no need to dismantle my IC and I can now make 2 25' CFC's and either give one to my brewing partner or sell the second and my IC once I'm done! :rockin: Thanks for all the advice everyone...I can't wait to get...

I will definitely keep a clear idea of which to sweat first...I know from a couple years working as a plumbers apprentice (back after high school), taking apart and re-sweating joints can be a PITA. In reading different instructions it seems that sweating together one entire end first is the...

I probably should have asked this initially, by do I even need to straighten it or can I simply slide the hose on with the coils opened up slightly? If I have to un-coil it then it may be much trickier than I am anticipating.

Thanks Homercidal, I only plan on using about 30' since research seems to confirm that 25-30 is ideal for a CFC, but I will definitely still use the soap.

I actually do recirculate during the entire time I am cooling and it doesn't make much difference actually, although my chilled was originally made for a keggle and I am now using a 20 gallon Polarware kettle so it doesn't have near the amount of contact it used to with the wiry (although it was...

I currently have a 50' 3/8" IC (DIY) that I am considering cannibalizing and turning it into a 30' CFC...I already have a 50' high temp rubber hose that is not being used so the cost is very minimal to convert it ( just the copper tee's and reducers as I already have extra 1/2" pipe). I am...

St Pat's has 1.5" triclover x 1/4" NPT and their order minimums are $25 (you'd still need the 1/4" barb fitting though). You could probably call and see if that's something they carry or can order but don't list on their website.

Count me in too.

That is one heck of a stand, and I like how the controls were integrated into the stand. Congratulations!

I would check www.stpats.com, they sell those.

Email sent on oxygen setup. Second in line if wedge decides not to get it.

McMaster has them. Part# 91580A46

I don't have a lot of experience with the valves and pilot system you're running, but on my stand I have 3 burners fed from a trunk (built into the stand) and I have a 15PSI regulator coming straight off the propane bottle and can power all 3 burners just fine (2 BG12's and a BG14). I would...

I've got 2 of these controllers, one in my fermentation fridge and 1 in my keezer, and both of them I tape to the side of the vessel(s) and insulate with a couple layers of bubble wrap. If you test just the ambient air you'll get much wider temperature variations, especially when you open the...

I would remove the regulator from the tank and weigh it, then subtract the total tare weight of the tank (it's stamped right on the bottle) from the weight you get and that will tell you how much CO2 is left and whether you're out or the gauge is wrong.

Based on my understanding of the auto-vent and how people are using them (I haven't installed one on my pump yet), you need to switch the location of the output and where you currently have the auto-vent so that it let's out all the air out of the line bringing the liquid to the return tee where...

Those are actually compression fittings and the seal is made between the fitting and the copper tubing by compressing a ferrule around the tubing to create the seal. You have to ensure you've got a wrench on the fitting while you're trying to tighten the nut around the copper tubing. See this...