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Love this suggestion, Bobby, but the arm on the bracket looks too short for the rig I am looking to build. I am planning to buy a 20 gallon Spike kettle to BIAB both 5 and 10 gallon batches (6 and 12 into the fermenter). Eyeballing this bracket, float, and Spike’s cut away drawing it looks like...

Thank you for the pointer to the presentation above; I found it very interesting as I had never studied pump cavitation. That said, if you re-read your linked presentation, you will quickly see that your quoted statement is only (partially) true for the Available Net Positive Suction Head...

Sorry, but language matters and this statement is absolutely not a "fact" or a "probability" of being a fact. This is the triangle angle sum theorem of Euclidian geometry (the only geometry most have ever heard of). This is a mathematical theorem proven from a set of axioms or postulates (i.e...

At the risk of going too far down the philosophy of science rabbit hole, here is an excerpt from the Wikipedia page on Scientific Theory that I think does a nice job of describing the relationship between models and theories: Stephen Hawking states, "A theory is a good theory if it satisfies...

I would suggest both @Silver_Is_Money and @day_trippr go (re-)read Karl Popper's definition of science. His falsification principle suggests that for a theory to be considered scientific it must be able to be tested and conceivably proven false. It is only through repeated failure to prove a...

Going a little off topic, they make a version of this with shorter pads for cleaning kegs: Keg Cleaner You have to pull the dip tubes first, but then it does quick work of cleaning even the worst home brew sludge (I spund in the keg, so there is quite a bit). I use a long tubing brush for the...

Agreed. I was thinking about the discussion above about needing NaOH to properly clean the oxygen stone. I have also heard concerns about cleaning plate chillers, which no doubt benefit from using caustic as well (and certainly need recirculating some kind of cleaner at a minimum).

For what it's worth, this is the setup a local craft brewery uses on their 1 BBL Spike pilot system (where I had a chance to brew a collaboration beer in 2019). Wort comes in on the right, in a single pass through the plate chiller after a 5 minute whirlpool and 15 minute settle (no...

The instructions for using Five Star Chemicals' Caustic #2 cleaner are just: Mix 1/2 oz.-2 oz. per gallon of water Circulate for 20-30 minutes at a temperature of 160°-212°F. Drain, rinse, and sanitize before use. The only ingredient listed in the SDS is 75-90% Sodium Hydroxide...

I put the BIAB bag in the kettle and use a separate "grist case" bag to more-or-less-hands-free slowly pour in the grist, leaving two hands free to stir with my homemade mash paddle. The grist bag is just an old pillow case that my wife sewed D-rings on either side of the original opening and...

Larger long-draft systems use gas blenders to make beer gas on site. As @doug293cz notes above, you can’t store beer gas at high pressure. So if you use a lot, it is cheaper to store CO2 and nitrogen separately, at high pressure, and mix it yourself. (But that’s not a homebrewer’s problem).

Au contraire! I think you should definitely buy the Crankandstein 3GT and give us all a first hand report! I was about ready to buy an MM3G. Now I'm not so sure.

I have brewed a decent Zombie Dust clone several times, but this week I picked up a six-pack of the real thing to compliment my current taps (a Belgian Wit and a CTZ/Chinook/Citra West Coast IPA). My recollection (and supported by photos on UnTappd) is that Zombie Dust has at most a slight bit...

Dropping the mash pH to 4.5 (using 20% phosphoric acid) is unlikely to have stopped the mash, as a Brülosophy xBmt showed that tasters couldn't tell the difference between beers with a 4.45 pH and a 5.33 pH mash, respectively (Water Chemistry: Evaluating The Impact Of Low Mash pH | exBEERiment...

Just to point out to others (since I was initially confused), that the Australian power plugs have a Hot (Red), Neutral (Black), and Ground (Green). This is like the US 120V system, except the hot is 230V (and 50Hz).

I had the chance to brew a 1 BBL batch at one of our local craft breweries a couple years back (my wife won it at a charity auction and surprised me for Christmas). I learned a ton through that experience, but perhaps most of all I came away with a bad case of trench drain envy. Spill something...

Both the wort and the water need to flow fast enough that you achieve turbulent flow in both "sides" of the heat exchanger (Reynolds number > 2900). If either is slow enough that you have laminar flow (Re < 2300), then it will take a very long time to chill, e.g., because the wort along the...

My Milwaukee meter was bone dry when I got it. Hydrated it, calibrated it, and it has been spot on for a year. I should probably double check the calibration, but I have been getting consistent readings from the same mash (I’ve been brewing a sequence of IPAs with the same grain bill and...

The temperature profile for your Wit is basically what I want to achieve, but I would prefer that the rise from 65F to 68F be driven by yeast activity (not my skanky space heater). I guess I should stop over-thinking this and just set the target temperature to 68F with a heating hysteresis of...