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Yeah, I won’t be using the Yorkshire Square again — and maybe dumping the rest of the keg once I’ve got something more enjoyable ready to transfer.

Nothing fancy... grain by the sack, hops by the lb., harvested yeast. Bitters are easy to bring in cheaply because they’re maybe 7 lbs of base malt ($7 of Golden Promise) and an ounce or two of hops (maybe $1 or $1.50 worth of Bramling Cross or EKG). Even if you’re poor you can pore over prices...

I’m a cheapskate about brewing too, but overall a lot more interested in flavor than cost per ml of ethanol. I do take some pride in cranking out a 5 gallon keg of pretty excellent best bitter for under $10, though (that’s a lot of “pours”).

For what it’s worth, you might want to go really easy on bittering hops for this style. Most of my best NEIPAs have had only whirlpool and dry/biotransformation hop additions, or sometimes with something at 5 minutes or flameout.

I think what’s a little weird about the craft beer movement is that people know they’re supposed to be appreciating aspects of a beer’s flavor, but they don’t really have a solid understanding of what they’re looking for. Most people — even people who normally drink craft beer — don’t seem to...

The thing to avoid is adding so many little cords and loops that you turn the keezer into a fun cat toy...

The worst to my mind is “ask” as a noun: “the client’s ask is that we...”

Maybe something like this? https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/material-handling/drum-barrel/drum-handling/rotating-drum-cradle-with-steel-wheels?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9KrPovq93wIVwhx9Ch3u2AHeEAQYASABEgL0wPD_BwE

I like the hop, but I think it takes a fair bit of it to get much of its flavor. Maybe add a small whirlpool addition?

One point to consider is that graham crackers have a lot of added oil, which is going to be a pain to deal with. Maybe at least get the low-fat kind. And I would do lemon zest in a bit of vodka added with your dry hops. Definitely not the curd, which has eggs and butter.

My favorite base malt for SMaSHes is Golden Promise. I generally buy it in 55-lb sacks. One good way to make very different beers, of course, is switching out the yeast. You could easily skip starters with 2 gallon batches.

What about a peg at the tip of each arrow, with a rubber band holding the handle in the closed position? You could probably even pull a pint without removing the rubber band.

Each was in the barrel 4-6 months.

WLP099 took a 1.135 OG beer down to 1.020 for me. I was pretty surprised.

On my 10 gallon barrel, I had three clean cycles: the first two were very strongly bourbon flavored, and the third (a cider) was moderate. The fourth batch was a sour and still had some hint of bourbon, but I racked that, rinsed the barrel, and now have a solera going without noticeable bourbon...

I just ordered some. I was underwhelmed by 1037, but hope springs eternal.

I would be really careful with pasteurizing corked bottles (especially if they’re carbed). Capped bottles are dangerous enough (I’ve had a few blast off, shooting very hot cider everywhere). Maybe you at least want to add cages?

I generally do bitters as all base malt, just out of taste preference. I did make a few lbs of light crystal out of Golden Promise, and sometimes I’ll add six oz or so of that, but I don’t find it’s a style that benefits from much crystal malt, if any.

FWIW, I think Fuggles is pretty gross, and have excluded it from all my brewing. I figured this out by doing a single hop Fuggles English IPA and realizing it tasted like concentrated dirt.

That Franco-Belges coffee malt is strong, astringent stuff, BTW. I agree that you do not want to use all that stuff in one batch.