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Thanks for the responses. I am going to bottle this, though I'm very tempted to keg it. My interest is to preserve the current flavor. I don't want to go to bottle and allow for further souring. So, after the bug cleanse I will repitch a neutral strain and bottle 'er up.

I have a sour ready for bottling and I want to kill off the active bugs before doing so. Reasoning behind this is to prevent further souring. I have explored three options and would like to hear opinions: Dropping temp on the batch to around 25F. Using potassium metabisulfite. Stove-top...

If you can, split the batch and ferment with the two strains independently. Then mix them post fermentation.

Having a hard time not classifying this ad mold. This is a side angle pic and cherries are still floating. The batch is about 8 months old.

I think blending makes sense, too. However, it may not have to be 50/50 depending on what yeast strain you want to be prevalent.

Mold is quite resilient to low levels of alcohol.

I've used 1056 at 61F a few times with very good attenuation.

I've used that strain several times and it looked like that everytime.

I was getting low temps the other day (59-60F) and I had the great idea to put a small space heater in my fermentation closet overnight to maybe bump it up a few degrees. Wow, that was a big mistake. I checked on it the next morning and the temp was in the 80s! Fortunately I was able to drop...

I have 1056 that I've been using almost a year now and I slanted it from a washed cake. I just streaked it earlier in the week and it's just fine. Bottom line is that you could have contamination, but there are ways to determine that before you use it.

The yeast profile is pretty solid. Banana/clove traces. I fermented in the lower range to avoid fusels. I made a tripel that fermented in the upper 60's and, while I enjoyed it, I wanted to limit the fusel taste with the dubbel. I did use syrup. It tasted great and smelled great. My goal...

I fermented at 61F. I did a diacetyl rest for a few days before kegging at about 68F. The yeast actually munched it down to 1.012, which was a little lower than I hoped. I guess what I'm trying to figure out is whether or not there is a trick to adding the candi at any specific point that...

I brewed up the following recipe for a dubbel that I threw together an was really looking forward to that dark Belgian candi flavor and aroma. The smell permeated from the fermenter and still lingers on some of the equipment. However, it is nowhere to be found in the finished product...

I use the formula referenced on www.picobrewery.com/askarchive/mashtemp.html to determine my temperatures. It is pretty spot on. If you can heat both strike water pots at the same time, then just figure out what your strike water temp should be collectively and add the water when they both...

I am going to do a pumpkin this week and was wondering how to factor in the pumpkin when determining strike and sparge water temps. I know that it takes 1 Kelvin to raise the temperature of water by 1 degree F and 0.5 Kelvin per pound of grain. Would pumpkin fall somewhere in between? I am...

I'm on my second attempt of harvesting Pacman (this time from Shakespeare Stout). If it doesn't work this time would anyone from Michigan be interested in selling me a slant? I have Pacman fever.

Anyone try mashing at 156?

My slants tend to lift from the bottom such as your second one is doing.

I have been doing hydro tests with leftover wort following the transfer to the primary. Usually, I end up getting some hop particles in my sample tube. I wouldn't think it would matter but can someone confirm that this should not effect my result? I overshot my OG by 13 points the other day...

It took me over 10 batches to finally brew a session beer. It was a simple pale that went incredibly smooth, much to my enjoyment. However, I've noticed that the smell coming from it in the primary is much like the Tripel that had just previously been transferred from the same equipment. I...