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i had no idea, and that explains why my beer didn't get nearly as dark as predicted thank you

do you get much more from the grains doing this? i made my last batch and it wasn't NEARLY as dark as i expected. in terms of color i wanted porter and got abbey. didn't know if i was missing an obvious step. this is just for Steeping specialty grains

what grains do you have ? ... you have a lot of cool hops, so dry hopping like four hops would be cool. go for a light beer in the malt category. btw, if you make a 2 gallon batch, that much LME will yeild 5.6% alcohol. with good grains maybe 6% OG1.058 FG1.014 Color5.5° SRM Efficiency75%...

i did a forum search but it came up with a 2009 result. ... anyone have leads on cheaper than amazon LME? i live too rural for a LHBS

thanks so much; i've really learned a lot here.

Yesfan that sounds really brilliant. my current brew is all cascade hops, but all kinds of different malts. i tend to drink porters and abbey styles... but wanted to make one batch of fresh pale ale. and that would seem perfect for a simple clean beer to leave room to taste the individual...

So why not add 6 ounces of hops at 20 minutes ? then retain the flavour of all aroma hops. ignoring price of course.

Okay ... so it's not like math only ... too bad. basically try different hops and remember which ones you liked. and rely on the opinion of people here to get me started. as for low alpha hops in bittering ... i see it takes more product, but it's not going to ruin the beer.

but yet Citra hops are a 13.6%, but most people consider them so aromatic as to be best for dry hopping. ... so do people just memorize each hop? or is there a system behind it to explain which strain does which role best ?

some hops are known for finishing some are known for bittering. but all hops can do both right ? like any hop can be dry hopped to add aroma, and any hops can be boiled to add bitterness, correct? i'm using brewgr.com to estimate my IBU's and shoot for about 50 IBU. it seems i can use...

Thank you for the info Gavin !

Rupert thank you so much !! i went with Williamette Crystal and Fuggles. a pound of each for 40$ after shipping.

as i understand, that's mashing temperature, typically people steep a little higher as the goal is to extract colors and flavors, not convert the starch to sugar entirely. and i miss read, the original plan is for 6.5 not 5.6 ... that'll leave you right around 5.2% when done is diluted by 20%...

what would be the most general purpose hop for many styles of beer? i'm trying to buy a pound instead of ounce of multiple different kinds.

wow barleywine, had three kinds, never liked them, i went for 50 IBU's because it's what it says on a few of my favorite beers. i'm definitely leaning no dry hop, and save the citra for a yellow lighter beer.

as i understood dry hopping won't increase bitterness at all, just add aroma. is this wrong ?

so i'm on major budget and didn't want to spend ten bucks for a batch of yeast. last brew i made used Saffbrew Abbeye yeast... ... i took the Lees from three of my beers, and put them in a glass jar with some corn syrup water. within a few hours i saw bubbles, left it overnight ...

i'd planned a blowoff tube , but figured making five gallons instead of six made that unnecessary. ... learning curve.

i'm making a 7% beer with chocolate and black patent malt (also a lot of crystal 60) i used cascade hops as it's what i had. 2 ounces at 60 and one ounce at 20, to give my planned 50 IBU's (47 on calculator) should i dry hop some fuggle or other english hop, or do i have too much...

OG1.078 FG1.023 Color35.0° SRM Efficiency75% Bitterness42.9 IBU (tinseth) BG:GU0.55 Alcohol7.0% ABV Calories269 per 12oz the problem is, i didn't know how many different kinds of hops there were : ) and, i couldn't decide between a porter and a belgian. my OG seemed a little light, 1.072.