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Honestly, don't worry about impressing family. Brew what you want and buy beer for entertainment purposes if need be. There's always next year to show off your aged imperial stout!

Don't cut the ferm wrap!!!! What size brew bucket do you have? My ferm wrap fits it just fine when I slide it under the lid clamp handles.

After 16+ years of paintball (co2 and compressed air), aviation 02 and kegging, co2 is one of the safest gasses out there. As far as temp, all tanks have a burst disc that will vent if the pressure gets too high. Not explosive, but enough to startle anyone nearby. Definitely store tanks where...

Your well water is not terrible, but I wouldn't sweat the water chemistry much with extract. The extract contains unknown quantities of salts, so there is no way to know what your final mineral profile will be. The best way to find out is to brew it and taste it, making adjustments based on results.

I've preferred my marzen results using 50/50 pale ale (especially marris otter) and Munich 8L for the base, and a couple caramunichs for color and body. Maybe a small amount of carafa I or II. No pilsner malt here... Sorry Germany... Ready for style police to open fire!

How old was the initial yeast pack? I'm assuming no starter?

Never made a neipa, but 2lbs is an awful lot of table sugar imo. I'd drop at least half the table sugar, all the milk sugar and get my points from malt (mashed low for light body) and don't fear a 30min+ whirlpool. Water also looks heavy on chloride for a hoppy beer, but again, west coat ipa guy...

I'd vote for the Anvil 10.5 if you have the ability to set it up for 220v. that's a reasonable all-in-one hot-side investment. I use an old robobrew 35L, and the 120v works, but is painfully slow. Due to that, I use it as a mash tun and boil over gas. You are right to go bigger, the 35L is...

That's a lot of coin for something you can do with a kettle and a bag, especially when you're only a couple brews in! IMO, much larger gains can be made by investing in the cold side (stainless fermenters, temp control, closed transfers...) Don't get me wrong, the system looks cool, but over...

What yeast did you use? There are some Belgian strains that are notorious for a bullet proof Krausen.

Get an actual hydrometer reading before you do anything, I love my tilt, but I don't trust it for final gravities. If it is indeed high, you've got a tough road ahead. I've never successfully gained more than a couple points from a stalled fermentation.

I agree, if you don't watch gravities, your asking for bottle-bombs

Nope, but if it's feed it may have added ingredients. I know someone that makes "fuel for his car" with horse feed. The feed contains corn and other grains mixed with molasses. All I can say about his results is he has a very lucky car!!

Do you have OG and FG measurements?

Yes, you would mix your ingredients and put the flat soda in a keg. You would then either set the regulator to the pressure that would give you the intended volumes of C02 (this pressure is dependent on temperature) and let it sit for a couple weeks to carb... or crank the pressure to 40psi and...

You would need kegs, C02 (with regulator) and a bottle filler, preferably a counter-pressure bottle filler, And all the hoses and other goodies. The cheaper way would be a cap that screws onto a 2l soda bottle that has a gas connector on it, you would still need C02 with a regulator though.

I've used it at that range with good results (definitely conan strain). One of the pros with this yeast is the ester profile that works well with hops, and the way to unlock that is by using the temp-range you're at! I would personally pitch around 66ish and allow it to free-rise in the basement.

I believe a vessel in which all headspace can be removed is most often used for no-chill as you don't want oxygen ingress while the wort is hot (oxidation happens way faster at hotter temps). I guess you could purge the keg headspace with C02, but why not just get a chiller?

You've maybe lowered the PH of the beer by maybe a smidge. That is really all.

I think you'll be ok, depending on the temperature of the keg. I typically do 40 for 24 hours and 20 for 24 hours before going down to 10 for serving. I then let the beer cold condition at that pressure for at least 24 hours before tapping, preferably longer. All this happens at 35F. This...