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Ditch the first two steps of your step mash. There’s zero reason to do them with modern American 2 row. The 145 is even debatable. The hop schedule is perfect. If you think you only get flavor/aroma from additions past 10 you need to brew more lager beer. Most traditional Czech Pilsners...

Yup I did, sorry man. 2 full time jobs and the holidays have me maxed a little bit. I’ll shoot you some photos in the next two days

Why would you want to pressure ferment? Why would you want to serve in the same keg you fermented in? No amount of hops added hotside can replace/replicate dry hopping.

Some lager yeasts can handle the cold Fermentation method, others can’t. The Augustiner strain is one of those lager yeasts that really shouldn’t be fermented cold. It’s optimum temp is 52/54. Any of the yeasts that Wyeast lists with a fermentation range starting at 46 can handle the cold...

P Park City

Why do you want to get below 1.020?

I’ve opened my brewery so this system is just collecting dust and needs to find a new home. It’s maybe 6 years old but actually has very little use. I purchased it from someone who had never homebrewed before but clearly had too much money. He never even set it up. I purchased it in 2018 and...

Exactly my point. PU finishes at 1.015 and is decocted. Without sulfate additions it would not nearly be as drinkable. A beer finishing at 1.5-2 plato with similar bitterness levels benefits from more CaCl In my opinion. Which is why Matt Brynildson recommends only CaCl additions for Pivo.

A low ABV beer finishing at 1.006-1.008 with elevated IBUs does not need any sulfate in my opinion. The CaCl will smooth the beer out considerably. If the beer finished at 1.014 and was lower in IBUS then yes some CaSo4 might be advisable.

Do they use the Fullers strain? And he recommends letting it get to 80? I could see 80 with the 1318 strains but most people using that professionally really try to keep it at or under 66, even for little beers.

I would go SS over Spike any day. I just don’t think they’re well designed. I’ve got 2 CF30s used once with all the attachments if anyone’s interested.

Started with a Grainfather, upgraded to a 3 vessel 20g Spike Electric System Grainfather was great. Close to 300 brews on one. It’s not perfect and I did some mods to it but was overall pleased with the results. Probably didn’t need the 3 vessel system but I got it for a steal. Started with...

You can buy Epsom salts, CaCl, Salt, baking soda, at most grocery stores. The only thing you can’t at a grocery store is Gypsum. Buy it in bulk, pound at a time. CaCo3 nor any bicarbonate should ever be added to any pale beer. There’s zero reason for it. The more bicarbonate you have in...

As a homebrewer you can’t buy from Crosby, not sure about Michigan Hop Alliance. YCH has a Homebrew arm to their business as does Hop Head Farms and Hops Direct. Honestly I never used much from BSG so I can’t really comment.

The only varieties affected by the extreme heat in the northwest were Citra and Cascade, supposedly everything else thrived in the heat. There should be minimal to no smoke related damage this year as opposed to last. 2021 crop should be light years better than 2020 across the board. If you...

There’s a great podcast with Matt Brynildson about him going to Europe for a year a couple years ago and not getting full conversion in a wheat heavy mash when doing his typical step mash regimen 145/154/168. When he added the traditional Belgian/European step of 160-162 he saw full...

Wait so can you step mash? I’d assume so since you’re recirculating. Everyone’s system is different. Take measurements of the gravity of the mash with a refractometer at different times during the mash. Try stirring and see what happens to gravity. Try milling more course and see what...

There are off flavor sensory test kits you can purchase through Morebeer and various other places. They’re not cheap but you can go in on one with some buddies or maybe suggest your Homebrew club purchase one or two and do some sensory training at the next meeting. Some people are much more...

No I think you get a lot more flavor as well. There are certain compounds in hops that benefit from boiling. The whole idea that hops need to be added below 180 to preserve anything on the hotside is a totally myth

I’ve completely stopped doing 60 minute additions. You can add more hops and get more flavor with the same amount of bitterness if you move that addition to 30. You’re not boiling vegetal matter for as long as well. Large 30 minute additions of Simcoe are my preference these days.