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I am looking to upgrade from my 25' immersion chiller and would like to stick with stainless steel over copper. I've found 4 options of stainless CFCs and want to make an informed decision. I'm going to put as much info about the chillers as I can hoping that if it's comprehensive enough it...

I've never tried it but I'd suspect that 3/8" going to the pump input may have trouble with cavitation unless the output is throttled back significantly. 3/8" on the outlet will result in significantly slower flow than 1/2".

I submerge mine in a container of StarSan to assure it gets in all the mesh holes. Don't let it dry, just sanitize, add hops and put in fermenter wet.

I'm a weakling so I use a hammer. Isolate the nutrient package to a corner, hold it there with one hand and hit it with the hammer. I start off with rather gentle strikes and increase the force until it pops.

I am considering replacing the tiny aquarium pump that I use to recirculate chill water with a 1/6 HP submersible pump from Harbor Freight. What I am concerned with is whether the silicone tubing will hold up to the extra power of the pump. I currently use an immersion chiller that's 3/8"...

A good use for the jug is to make up a gallon of StarSan with distilled water so you have sanitizer on hand when you need it. If you use distilled water it will keep for a long time.

Yes. Those "1 Gallon Jugs" are actually something like 4 L, which leaves very little headspace. Use a blow off tube for the first few days, in my experience they blew off over half the time. The Little Big Mouth Bubbler was great when I did one gallon batches, I always started with a blow off...

In addition, I also prefer flavor and aroma without a lot of bitterness. I'd suggest just a small bittering addition and then the rest with 15 min or less for flavor with a dry hop for aroma. The dry hop can be ignored in the bitterness calculation.

I've used Beersmith long enough to forget how to do the calculation by hand but you would calculate each addition, the bittering addition usually contributes the most but they all contribute some.

Since I started collecting the first 5 gallons of hot water before recirculating the chill water I have plenty of ice, there is usually ice still floating in the cooler when I get the wort down to 65 F. I keep the wort flowing around the coils by whirlpooling the wort with my Riptide pump (I...

I was wondering if there was a formula for estimating how much quicker chilling may be if the only variable changed was faster flow rate of water through the chiller? I currently use a 25' immersion chiller recirculating ice water with a small aquarium pump after collecting the first 5 gallons...

I'm not familiar with either of those yeasts but some strains are more aggressive than others so it could be that.

I've never brewed a Black IPA but a lb of Blackprinz seems like too much in a 5 gallon batch. I probably wouldn't use much more than .5 lb.

It could be depending on yeast strain. Some strains are more vigorous than others. Edited to add: personally l would start with blow off tube just to avoid a potential mess if it is vigorous.

I'm a stir plate noob but in the few that I have done I've figured out that if I turn the stir plate off for as little as 30 min the yeast will settle out enough to convince me that it's done.

When I was doing 1 gallon batches I didn't have much luck with the online calculators, it was either user error or that the calculator isn't as accurate for small volume. I always targeted 2.2 grams of table sugar per bottle I expected to get (depending on how much of a blow off there was).

I recently made a decision on a hop spider and considered both of those options. The advantage of the first one is that if you are using a lot of hops all you need is a larger bag, whereas you may need a second spider with the second one. Ultimately I went with one similar to the second one but...

Not too late, dry hop then bottle. I always leave beer in the fermenter 3-4 weeks to let it start to clear on it's own before bottling.

It would add roasted bitterness similar to roasted malts. Hop bitterness is a different flavor so IMO I wouldn't use it as a substitute. If you are making a coffee beer you can cut back on the bittering hop addtion.

I'm assuming 5 gallon batches. If you do 10+ then you may need the extra power (I only do 5 gallon so I'm not sure how much power for 10+).