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Target OG is 1.100 for an English Barley Wine. Magnum hops at 60 minutes and EKG in the whirlpool for 80 IBU. I’m using Mangrove Jack M42 yeast. I like some dextrose in my big beers to help the attenuation. Agreed, they don’t have a big, frothy head, but I like to give it a little life.

I’m about to do a Barley Wine, and have built this recipe list- 80% Maris Otter 5% Medium Crystal 5% Munich II 5% Flaked Wheat 5% Dextrose For those who’ve done Barley Wines, what are your thoughts about using Munich? I use it in most of my beers, and like the extra grainy, malty character it...

Hey did you guys know, what ever water temperature you use to soak your gear with PBW, you have to use the same temperature water to rinse it off. KegLand has a video describing the use of PBW, and I learnt it there. Something about it not rinsing off fully if you use a different temperature...

I do reiterated mashes for my big Imperial Stouts and Barley Wines, and it’s a process that works well to get reasonable efficiency without having to boil forever. Though I do 90-120 minute boils on my RIS and 180 minute on my Barley Wines to get the flavours I want. The other option is to...

I can’t help too much, because my gauge shows a reading constantly whenever there’s pressure in the fermenter. Well, over 0.3 PSI I think. If the pressure drops below 0.3 PSI then the gauge turns off. When I pressure transfer to keg I just keep it below 1.0 PSI and keep an eye on it while it’s...

I wasn’t worried about autolysis. I have good fermentation control in my conical, and can dump out the bottom if needed. The longest I leave my ales in primary is 4 weeks for the big ones. This one will probably see 3 weeks until shifting off yeast for conditioning.

Sweet, thanks. I agree the biggest problem among new brewers, for which I still include myself, is not pitching nearly enough yeast, and that’s the common theme we read about in the forums. But I’ve never read anything about a fermentation that ran too fast. So I was just curious.

One of my first beers was a Rochefort 10 clone, which was also the first time I made a yeast starter. I’m sure I underpitched it and the fermentation got stuck way above FG. I did end up making another starter and got it going again. So I’ve just started on another Rochefort 10 clone. I make...

Using Wyeast 3068 at 20C/68F I’m always very close to FG in 72 hours, with my 22L batches. I leave it sit though, and don’t bottle until around days 10 to 12. First bottle gets opened after 7 days in bottle and to my tastes it’s peak drinking after 3 weeks in bottle.

I boil my strike water first to remove the O2. Then quickly cool it to mash in temperature with my counter flow chiller, then add the sodium metabisulphite, and then mash in. I’ve dialed my boil down a bit to a less vigorous rolling boil. On my 65L system I use the 2500W heaters to maintain my...

That sounds like as good a reason as any. So you get excited on brew morning too? That’s cool, I thought it was just me.

I’m filling my BrewZilla 65 now for a Belgian Dark Strong Ale brew tomorrow. I haven’t settled on when to add the salts. Why do you add them the night before? Cheers

Belgian Dark Strong Ales are my favourite, and what I brew often. I’m getting my yeast ready for a Rochefort 10 clone on the weekend. Apart from the good advice already, there’s a couple of points I could add. I like dry yeast and use it a lot, but for genuine Belgians it doesn’t get you where...

My Hefe’s are virtually finished after 72 hours in the fermenter. All the temperature induced yeast characteristics in the beer are set by then.

I use a TILT to watch the SG throughout the fermentation. It adds another layer of fun to the process as well. Using the TILT I only have to do one hydrometer at the start for OG and one at the end to get FG so there’s minimum wastage due testing. I could probably get away without doing any...

That elbow is the original part on the BrewZilla and it has a male thread on top. So the original stainless pipe and replacement polycarbonate tube attach to it via a female nut. If you want to look at post 429 you can just see the bottom female nut on my tube. Obviously the three way valve has...

Yes it’s a T three way valve so I can make the flow go anywhere or everywhere or no where. I had to remove that elbow to attach the valve. It’s just held there by a nut. Maybe it’s that easy on your Guten.

This shows the 3 way valve installed. Once I get the other parts I'll build the whirlpool arm through the sidewall of the BrewZilla.

The stainless pipe is attached via locknut on the BrewZilla, so you just undo the nut to pull the tube off. Are you fitting a whirlpool port? I’ve got my 3 way valve here, and just waiting for a couple of other bits and I’ll be putting one onto my BrewZilla.

With the new saddle fully tightened down, I can just move the tube a fraction, so it’s not fully tensioning down on the tube. I don’t recall what size that saddle is. I took my tube to the store and tried a couple of different sizes to find the size I preferred. The polycarbonate tube has a...