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Should work fine. Just make sure you don't introduce a lot of oxygen when filling. Some tubing and a spring loaded bottle filler would help.

A hefe is a great beer to start out with. You can just grab 6 lbs of wheat DME, 1 oz. of Hallertau and ferment with Danstar Munich Yeast. Simple and delicious first beer.

This is a pretty solid base malt profile for an IPA, although I like slightly less Caramel in my IPAs. I would change it to this: 13 lbs. Pale Malt 1 lbs. Caramel 40L 8 oz. Carapils 8 oz. Victor Added 2 lbs. of Pale since this is your first brew-in-a-bag and you will most likely...

I used to use glass exclusively but now that I'm brewing much more frequently I'm switched to buckets. Just easier to clean and cheaper.

My new favorite in the area is Hop Lot. They are just north of TC near Suttons Bay. Great beer and atmosphere. On our last visit they had a blond and a pale that were mind-blowing. Both styles that are difficult to make exciting. They are now my 2nd favorite stop outside of Right Brain. We...

That's basically the conclusion I came to. I think I'm going to run a bunch of 1 gallon / 1 pound test steeps to get some real data. The way it is now, some recipe building software could be off by up to 10% and I can't live with that. haha.

Hello all, I'm scratching my own itch and developing my own little recipe builder and ran into loads of conflicting info in a few areas. My current concern is properly calculating gravity contributions when steeping grains on extract brews. Steeping grains should have an impact on your OG...

No sense in steeping that pale malt. You aren't going to get any fermentables from it. I'd probably replace it with a light crystal malt (20-40L - darker if you want a more English style) for a bit of sweetness and complexity.

Fruit beers are defiantly a thing. The rule of thumb is 1 lb. of fruit per gallon of beer. You can adjust that to achieve the flavor you are looking for. Most of the sugars ferment out so I always go heavy on the fruit.

Your best bet would be to use some software to help calculate your water volumes. brew365.com has a good one that I've used quite a bit.

Others may disagree but I'd go with US-05. You want it to ferment clean and that is exactly what this strain does. I'd ferment it cool (low 60s) and then cold crash it for awhile.

I have the same problem with Citra lately. It just smells so damn good... I just brewed up a new IPA using AU Summer hops for my late additions. It's giving off a great fruity apricot aroma and tasting great. Going into a keg tomorrow.

I usually mash my IPAs at 150 and generally finish out at the 1.010 - 1.012 range. I'd raise your temp a bit and get rid of the corn sugar.

Doesn't look like you did anything wrong and it sounds like you've done about all you can do at this point. I'd probably repitch with s-04.

Star San is mostly phosphoric acid. In high doses it'd be harmful but if properly diluted you are just fine.

You are missing a B there. "The actual counts now range from 70–130 billion," says Chris White, president of White Labs." (link)

Did you take a gravity reading? Regardless it'll still be beer but you've changed the water-to-everything-else ratio so it'll definitely change the character. No need to dump it. Just ride it out and feel free to pull a sample to see how it tastes.

Personally I give away more beer than I drink. I really enjoy the process and sharing so it doesn't feel wasteful at all. If you are brewing too much, maybe think about going down to 3 gallon batches.

I recommend going with a 10 gallon mash tun. You'll outgrow that 5 gallon one pretty quick at this pace.

FYI all of the 3.3 lb Briess DME jugs have the malts listed on the back. Golden Light is just 2-row and Carapils. Like IslandLizard said above, generally stick to their Golden Light or Pilsner and use specialty grains. I avoid their other packaged DMEs like Porter, Special Dark, etc. as the malt...