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And I am saying it is not necessary and could even create problems. And it's not something I just thought up, it is something I have asked myself and every answer I've gotten, every book I've read and LHBS guy I've talked to all say the same thing. It is wasted effort and in the long run could...

I like it. But I agree that you should only run the stir plate until ferm starts or just a few hours in.

Yes but the yeast have to produce enzymes to break down maltose. Simple sugars require a lot less effort and so the yeast go for that first. Once they have consumed all the simple sugar they will be ill prepared for eating maltose because they are now generations away from their "parents" who...

Don't use sugar. It won't shock your yeast to be in wort that has simple sugar. All it will do is make your yeast lazy and they won't go for the maltose. It WILL affect you attenuation, I would even add the sugar to your ferm only after it has died down and the yeast have eaten most of the...

Awesome. So then I will plan on a long ferm, taste, then go from there. Thanks for the advice. I'll post again in..... February? When it's done.

I thought 1056 and 05 were basically the same strain. I have seen it munch the crap out of beer though where the 1056 has "average" attenuation but wasn't sure if it was my wort or the yeast that brought about those results.

Also, I was thinking about dry hopping with a half oz of norther brewer two-three days before bottling. Ihear they can give a nice spice tone, but is it a good idea?

80's Really? It's snowing and a little too cold in the house (wood floor, single pane windows) to keep thosetemps. Most I can do is 73 - 75. Any thoughts about Irish ale yeast?

Clove would be nice but bannana....no. I was thinking Wyeast Irish ale migh bring it down further once the 1056 poops out. Good for dark and malty ales but not sure if it would get the job done.

Good idea would the saison yeast bring any flavors? I am not familiar with those strains.

That's one thing I was worried about. You could really smell it in the mash but only time will tell. I think I'l be ok as long as I allow for a long ferm and conditioning time to help even everything out.

On my lunch I went to the LHBS and one of the guys helped me throw together a recipe for a chewy, dark, malty winter ale. Batch size: 2.5 Calc. OG: 1.085 Calc. FG: 1.021 Mash Eff: 75% IBU: 29 SRM: 54 ABV: 8.5 Yeast: Wyeast 1056 Starter: 2000ml on stir plate 36hrs then decant. 5#...

I never had luck with the braid, look into bazooka tube. I hear you can later use them as a hop strainer/filter later when you build your manifold.

After seeing joeunc's post and reading a little more I think I'm just gonna do it.

4 hours on average from heating the water for tun preheat. Usually just throw 190f strike water in and leave it until it settles to strike temp. To wiping down the counters and pouring victory homebrew. Although my last brew day took about 7 hours. Leaking MLT ball valve, temp problems, stuck...

I have been doing half batches having gone AG and miss the 5 gallons at a time method. I think I can do the grain math. I know my boil off rate, my preboil og/ efficiency average and the OG I would have to hit to still be able to top off. Also, I was listening to BrewStrong and they talked...

+1 for adding in half once ferm has slowed and other half later. It will help you hit you FG.

6 weeks, no problem.

If you Whirlpool it would be better to use a bag, but if you're just pouring into the ferm just put a screen on a funnel. Also with how hop pellets drop out I hear if you get some in your ferm you can rack w/out problem. I use whole hops with muslin bags or nothin at all so maybe I have no say