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http://www.clearbeerdraughtsystem.com/

This is also what I usually do aswell. It makes the process very easy and replicable. I pull them up around 150F though but would not care if it was as high as 165F. 170F would probably be fine but on the high end.

Nice, thanks. I'm in :)

A simple one. Not sure what it would fit into. I was 18 litres of water, 2kg Extra light DME and 50 g dryhop.

I have used it once. In a kettle sour, dry hop, extract beer. It came out exctly as I wanted and was one of the best beer I have ever made. I will absolutley use it again.

Thank you, I might skip the gelatin or just use it because it is easy. So the order should be: 1. Cold crash 2. (Add gelatin) 3. Transfer to serving keg 4. Add the potassium sorbate and potassium metabisulfite

Thank you for your reply, I will do that.

I have made my first hard cider from apple juice and s-04 yeast. It is getting close to finished and I am going to rack it to a serving keg shortly. I have a question though. I plan to add potassium sorbate, potassium metabisulfite, gelatin and cold crash. Should I: 1) Add the potassium...

From the Fermentis site (as an example) Can you clarify if it is correct that no oxygenation is needed or not for your dry yeasts? And would there a difference between lagers and ales on this? We don’t recommend aerating the wort in normal conditions. The dry yeast has been produced and dried...

Some dry yeast manufactures say that you do not need to aerate. They have "stuffed" the yeast with enough of the essential so that they can devide a number of times. If you plan to reuse the yeast, then aeration is needed because the reserves has been depleted.

(Not sure if this should be posted in the Grainfater, Sour or Extract forum. Feel free to move it if you think it fits somewhere else.) I made my first sour a few months back after about 4 years of brewing. The goal was to make a sour that was * Eeasy drinking * Somewhat low ABV * Not overly...

You either: 1. Bottled to soon 2. Used too much sugar 3. Have a contamination 4. A mix of the above My guess would be contamination.

NVM, I found it. It must be a typo.

Where have you seen this?

1. No, you did not kill your yeast. 2. It is a bit late now to fix it probably. With the higher temperature, it would start and ferment faster, you cant take that back. If you pitched, and left it at aruound 70 degrees, there is a chance that it is already finished. Did you test your gravity?

No, it has nothing to do with CO2. It is basically impossible to know what your haze is from but here is a good link to information what it can be, and what you can do about it. https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/beer-haze-cloudy-homebrew/

It will drop eventually, so you can just wait if that is what you want. You could "disturb" the fermenter a bit (poke it on the side a few times, rack it a bit carefully back and forward) to speed it up abit.

77-83% is Wyeast own number. And it is not a "maximum".

I would not use a blender. If (when) I didnt have a stir plate and a flask, I just use a 2 liter soda bottle. Do a 1 liter starter, cool it, put it in the bottle, shake it alot, pitch the yeast and just shake/stir it up once in a while. It will be perfectly fine.

Yes, ofcourse there is.