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Oooh share some links to those videos please

Are the folks who are warm fermenting their lagers still lagering them? Ie, storing them cold for several weeks/months?

Why is warm fermented lager desirable? Honest question. I could understand the fermentation process being faster if you ferment at 65 vs 50, but the time consuming aspect of lagers it the lagering process after fermentation. IMO, if we're skipping the lagering phase, this really isn't so much...

Every other beer I make is a pale lager. I also make cream ales from time to time using a clean yeast, low ish fermentation temps, and extended cold storage before I drink it. Both good, but a surprising amount different. I'd definitely pick the lagers as my favorite.

I have no problem doing high gravity 5 gallon batches with a 10 gallon kettle, so I'd imagine a 20 gallon kettle for medium gravity 12 gallon batches would be fine, though maybe tight for some beers.

I get a ton of hop/trub sludge in my kettle from BIAB on a propane burner with a brewbag. I also have a very fine crush and high efficiency though so I just rack my wort out from on top of the sludge, and accept leaving a gallon or so behind in the kettle.

YMMV but my clumsy self ruined my mini fridge when I tried to bend the freezer back

I worked for companies that make and sell things, and gotta say I'd be shocked if the yeast manufacturers were telling people to use their product in a way which would probably produe poor results. My two cents

I'm not 100%, but I think 34/70 is Weheinstephaner, and the description on Wyeast's website says 2124 is a 'Carlsberg' strain? I've had great results with 34/70.

I think we actually agree completely - at least with all the stuff you wrote there. Would I rather have no oxygen in my co2 bottle? Yeah. Do I think myself, you, or a beer judge will reliably (or ever) tell a difference between two identical beers, one carbed or pushed with .0001% purer co2...

Some breweries target certain amount of max allowable oxygen in their packaged beer, but that doesn't answer my question (which was rhetorical). There is no way to measure when a beer is oxidized. There is no agreed-upon correlation between the amount of oxygen in a packaged beer that will make...

Feel free to enlighten me? Another poster already made the point that oxygen in beer is bad, which I agree with. I'm pretty sure you can't produce evidence that oxygen in co2 bottles makes the beer taste bad.

What constitutes oxidation? 1 ppb? 100? Is it style dependent? There is no way to measure oxidation, at least in a way that correlates amount of dissolved oxygen to perceptible defects (that I know of).

All I'm pushing back on is the comments that implied if you didn't believe oxygen in co2 was oxidizing your beer, you're denying science. There is no science that confirms oxygen in co2 oxidizes beer. There isn't even a standard for measuring oxidation. "But in my experience it can...

I'm all about science, but I don't think that's happening here. One user has used a device that measured some oxygen in bottled co2, then said that is enough to oxidize your beer. Not saying he's wrong, but it definitely hasn't been proven, or that the reality isn't way more nuanced than that...

What was your fermentation temp for these beers?

Chico, WLP830 or 34/70, and Conan

I did as much internet 'research' as possible a couple months ago. For me the choices were Spike ($300 ish), SS Brewtech ($200-230 ish), and generic whatever pot ($60). I went the cheapo route but think the spike and brewtech would have been sweet. Main difference between those two for me was...

If you want to make a NEIPA, make a NEIPA. Oxidation is bad and you should try to minimize it, but you'll still make great beer unless you do something crazy.

My first pale ale with Verdant has been in the keg about 10 days now and isn't clearing up very much. Is this common with the yeast?