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My recent Czech pale lager was $12 for a 4.5-gallon batch. Probably the cheapest batch I've made. I never homebrewed with the sole intention of saving money on beer, but I definitely do.

With both A38 and 1318, I've had great results with proper oxygenation and a healthy starter, even chilled and decanted. The British/Hazy strains tend to require more oxygen than clean ale strains, and I've found that to be very true in my own experience with them.

How did you oxygenate your wort? British/hazy/NEIPA strains tend to have somewhat higher oxygen requirements compared to clean American ale strains. I haven't used that yeast myself, but with A38 or 1318 I had much shorter lag time and better yeast performance with proper oxygenation.

Brewed a vanilla bourbon barrel cream ale last weekend. That's slowing down so I'll move that up for a diacetyl rest. Tomorrow looks rainy so I might brew an Imperial stout that I plan to age on oak and bourbon as well. Probably a small batch (1.5-gallon) and I may even bottle this one.

Nothing specifically beer-related, but I got a big order of peach, cherry, pear, pawpaw, and persimmons trees. Hopefully in several years they'll all be a part of my fermentation projects.

Haven't seen that myself. I know GoodBelly recently changed their juice drinks to a different probiotic strain, so they no longer contain lactobacillus plantarum. I'm not sure if that has something to do with it. For the last few years I've been souring with GoodBelly probiotic capsules which...

I transfer to smaller kegs (1.5 or 2.5 gallons) all the time to free up another 5 gallon. Should be little to no risk of oxidation if you purge your receiving keg and the transfer line.

It's been several years since I've used it, but before I had a fermentation fridge I fermented WLP925 under pressure at 65-68F and I felt it was very clean. Made several American light lagers, German pils, and Märzens, though I feel it was best suited for the light lagers that weren't malt-forward.

I've been using a Corona mill since I went to brewing all grain (BIAB). Took a little tweaking to get it how I like it and a few tiny mods, but it works great. I'm regularly at 73-75% mash efficiency with no sparge, just squeezing the bag a bit. For my few decocted beers I'm getting another 10%...

10-pack of Vanilla beans. Two for some upcoming beers, and the other eight for a big jar of vanilla extract for the kitchen.

That's a neat find! My brewing room is adjacent to our plant/seed starting room. I probably won't move my beers out of the fermentation fridge, but I might have to put my 1-gallon wine fermenters on the shelf near some potted plants and see what happens.

Just exchanged my 20lb CO2 last week at Airgas - $50 Exchanged the 5lb CO2 there a few weeks ago - $32 I need to go exchange my 20cf nitrogen tank in a few weeks, can't remember what that was last time. Airgas is pretty much our only option here, and even that's about a 25 minute drive one way...

You're definitely beyond hefeweizen and way beyond hopfenweisse as well. You're in IPA territory at that point.

How did you handle splitting up the gallon? I bought a gallon in 2017 and I'll never be able to use it up in my lifetime. I was thinking about sharing it with some other all-grain club members, but I wasn't sure of the best method. Mason jars? Or some other small glass bottles maybe.

Back when I switched to all-grain in 2017, I bought a 1-gallon jug of 85% phosphoric. More than a lifetime supply, that's for sure.

I knew I'd be busy this weekend, so I doubled up last weekend - Amber ale on Saturday that'll be going into a pin cask, and a Czech dark lager on Sunday that'll lager for 6-7 weeks in time for our homebrew club meeting in April. Next weekend I have a bourbon barrel cream ale planned to brew...

Personal opinion here, but I've never found any finings to be necessary. I do use BioFine in my occasional cask conditioned beers because they'll be sitting at cellar temperatures for a shorter amount of time. But for kegged beers, I've never used any finings at all. 2-4 weeks cold conditioning...

That thought did cross my mind, perhaps those two packs of 34/70 were infected or compromised in some way? My cleaning and sanitizing regimen has always been the same and knock on wood for the 10-ish years I've been brewing I've never had an infection, short of possibly these few beers with 34/70.

That was my only experience with it. I'd be willing to try a side by side with 34/70 to other yeasts if someone else made them, I'm just not going to throw away $30-40 to find out myself. I'd be happy using 2124 for all my lagers, though I've also been content with 2278 for my Czech lagers.

I don't know that it actually was DMS. Myself, I detected an unpleasant bitterness bordering on acrid/astringent/slightly vegetal. Didn't really taste like DMS to me but I have almost no sense of smell so I may also not be able to detect it via taste. The others suggested it was similar to DMS...