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Awesome!

Strong username - post correlation.

I just made my 1st deposit in the yeast bank.

Dry hopped.

6g of Sunburnt Country Red IPA 17977 gal

No, thats the next test. I need to get it in a box. I need to find one I'm happy with. Then I'll wire it up.

It's been running stable for a couple of days. I randomly set beer constant mode on and off with the rotary encoder to kick the heat or cool relays on and off. No scrambling so far.

I did this.

You can de-solder the STC relay and wire in a SSR. https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p/wiki/1.5.2-Solid-state-relay

I finally got a box to put mine in.

I boxed up my DIY stir plate and got a starter on for my next brew.

A couple pics.

I used the instruction on page 44 of the post. The only difference being cheap Chinese Uno clone, cheap Chinese prototyping board which is slightly different layout to Sainsmart. I also used cheap Chinese relay. I also did the wifi option using a wemos D1 (not Mini) clone and followed the wifi...

I did miss one of the wires on the underside. :mug: I also pushed some solder where I though there may be contact across pads that shouldn't be connected. (my soldering is a little agricultural and I am NOT putting up a photo of that!)

Rotary encoder wired in and working! I have used the rotary encoder to change to beer constant to heat and cool and the relay has clicked several times without scrambling. Now to find a box and test it under load.

One picture worth 1000 words.

I'm working through this issue now. Getting there. Slowly.

Coopers Pale Ale, Stout, Mid Strength and Sparkling Ale all use the same yeast. Sparkling Ale is higher alcohol so the yeast isn't in quite as good condition. I have harvested from Pale Ale and been successful. Dregs from 6 bottles rinsed out with cooled boiled water. 500mL starter at 1.020...

I'll keep that in mind. Depending on the enclosure, I thought of using the casing, but that sounds like a better solution.

I hadn't quite cut the etch to the onboard LED properly (this shield had the components pre-soldered). Had to "guess" which were the corresponding lines to cut too!! It's now working properly. Pulled apart a wall wart to have a look at how I might mount it in the project box to power the...