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that's not a good picture. the lip or edge of the lids are various type. Some are made to fit very tight. Such as when paint or Petroleums are the content. There is a thing called a bucket/pail/lid opener...they are very effective on tight sealing lids. I used them before going to Gamma...

Has anyone tried just mixing the sugar, water and cirtic acid in a quart jar and placed straight in the oven to come up to temp and then let sit for the required time? skip the stove top? Simple dissolve the sugar in hot water and place it in a jar in the oven?

type of lid would help...or a picture. some have a very tight fit and seal...like paint buckets. Lowes and Home Depot sell "easy lids" which are well...easy...but still seal good for fermentation.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Magic-Chef-8-7-cu-ft-Manual-Defrost-Chest-Freezer-in-White-HMCF9W3/313864036#overlay I'm working on this one... 8.7 Magic Chef. I had it a few years as cold storage but decided to make it a keezer. Holds 5x5gal on the floor and 2x3gal on the hump. short 2x4...

I ferment in the keg. I get a full 5 gallons without issue. I use the standard/basic floating tube and place a large SS nut or fender washer over the middle of the tube to keep it properly submerged. I use low PSI PRV valves (blue-10psi, purple-15psi, red-25psi) or a blowoff tube as...

I will run hot water thru the QD to faucet between kegs. That's about it. About once a year I'll do a full break down and deep clean, QD, line & faucet. I typically will leave the kicked keg hooked up in place until it's replaced. But I usually have a keg ready to go so it's a quick hot...

I have forward sealing faucets with removable tips...after a drinking session I remove the tips and clean them. the faucet I just grab my spray bottle of starsan and give it a few blasts up the opening and let air drip dry.

never used starsan in the keg... keg gets completely broken down, washed with oxyclean and rinsed like crazy, inverted to drain dry, rebuilt and filled all within about 30 minutes... starsan on everything else, including all the individual keg parts.

I have done this...more than once...more than year old yeast... now what I've started doing... pull my yeast jar out and let start to warm up...during the middle of mash, I will draw about a pint of low gravity wort and cool it down...decant the yeast jar...mix yeast cake and wort and let it...

local brewery is an option. the online issues might be 50/55# is too big for UPS/Fedex to offer a goor rate. But ordering say 5 or 6 10# bags allows the order to be split into 2 or more smaller packages

great idea. will do that once everything is back together and running.

no tower..that was one of my older designs...I used a copper sleeve for the beer lines and evaporator plate to drawn cold up the tower. Not sure how successful that was. Just a simple keezer with a 2x4 collar. Very tight fit with the kegs. 5x5 gal and 2x3 gal in an 8cf freezer. Actually...

well I've got a few digital thermometers with wire probes... The control unit probe is in liquid at the bottom of the freezer. the other ones I guess should be in liquid too. My other kegerator is a 1946 Westinghouse fridge...Ice box part is at the top near the lines and shanks. No warm beer...

well...I've had some beers turn out a bit "off" from what I had previously brewed. Same exact recipe. I can't recall if those were cold crashed and served as soon as FG was reached and had no "yeast clean up" or were they left to "clean up" for a week or so. I never kept records of FG to...

well...a deep freezer, and most kegerators don't have fans per say, well home units don't. And traditionally, kegs pull from the bottom. Wherever the thermostat is, is where the unit will decide to run or not. I don't think it will make it any more or less efficient per say. Granted, a...

I got to thinking recently...yeah...usually a bad idea... I was wondering if there was any meaningful different in the serving temps between the two dip tube methods? My gut instinct tells me that a standard dip tube is pulling beer from the bottom of the keg, and the bottom of the keezer or...

if FG is reached...then what are the yeast "cleaning up"?

glass carboys are extra weight, can shatter, and are hard to clean. many plastic carboys are clear so you can see clearly thru them, they won't break, and the neck is wide for easy cleaning.

FG can "appear" stable but might still be dropping points...very slowly... If you are where you think it should be...no harm in kegging and drinking... but if bottling...give it a few more days to be sure it's flatlined...or you might have an explosive finale.

I would have no issues pitching that. And it's fresh and ready to go. Most of my harvest re-pitches are 6 months or even longer and need a little starter action. I've pitched year plus yeast cake without a starter. It made beer but I was nervous about it...