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Ahhh, for the bigger lugs I use a hydraulic crimper setup.

Personally, I don't run into too many steel terminals other than in some cases where they are uninsulated, nickel-plated steel for high temp use. The nice thing about using big names like Molex et al is if you dig enough one can usually find detail datasheets that give current ratings for the...

I don't oversize simply for oversize sake but if all I have is oversize I'll use it, so long as it's not too cumbersome or impractical to use it.

Yeah... you'd never want to use acid flux, per se, on wiring connections. There are many different fluxes available and 60/40 or 63/37 general electrical/electronics solder types with varying degrees of flux agressiveness and some "no clean" varieties that many still clean. :) Well off on a...

Circuit boards are a different matter. The only "reason" to solder crimp on wire terminals is to band aid a crappy crimp job. Just cut to the chase and do the crimp right and you don't have to do all the soldering futz.

There will be difference of opinion but a soldered joint is not always, and maybe not even usually, better than a proper crimp. Proper being the key operative. I've seen some really crappy solder joints maybe as much or more than crimps. Personally I very rarely, almost never, solder crimp type...

I have a number of different crimpers for various terminals. This Molex is one recently acquired and is a full cycle crimper. More $$ than your average pliers-type crimper but in the big world of crimpers it's not a huge outlay at about $80. Also have a similar style for 3M terminals but that...

I suggest the heat discoloration could be two fold. The terminal hole size is too big relative to the screw size, and it's possible the crimp of the terminal on the wires themselves is not a good, high compression crimp.

You might have, by now, seen that was covered in post #13 more than a year ago.

I can only answer one somewhat definitively. I believe it is frozen or at least super chilled after the yeast is added. Little to no alcohol then so not wine. Far as the rest you'd have to ask the sellers of such things for more detail, if really interested (which I presume not really). They...

Surly Mosh Pit

Stirred and sampled again today. Down to 1.010. Hoping another 14-ish points will come off... Seems like forever.

Killazyme, yeast hulls, Fermaid O, and couple packs of Uvaferm 43.

Today I stirred it and took a sample. Now at 1.032, which is a nice move, but sorta looked like not much was happening again. Aside from today's stir, should I be doing anything else to try ensuring it keeps going down?

Frankly, it was a quick "just do it" project following a recipe and I failed to up front consider the ramification of that much sugar, and the recipe did not make any mention of alcohol to jog my reality. My intent was not to produce dry beer per se, rather I went in thinking just bottle...

I did play around with the caps a bit, and with a bit of futzing how tight they're screwed down, one can establish a quasi relief valve. It does not take much if any further tightning of the cap beyond "first contact" to get a seal that will maintain some pressure firmness but not be...

Made a couple small batches of ginger beer where in there is about 30oz of the concoction in each 1L plastic bottle (used carbonated water bottles). There is 6oz of simple syrup in each bottle. Cane sugar 1:1 water. Primed each bottle with CBC-1 yeast. These bottles were getting ROCK hard and...

The Fermaid finally arrived after a couple days USPS delay. Added the Fermaid mix (8g + 1/4 cup distilled water) and stirred it into the wine last night. There is now a little airlock activity this morning. Wondering if I should dose it with Go Ferm+yeast as sorta had been thinking to do, or...

Preferred is a subjective thing. I prefer StarSan because that's what I've used and developed confidence in. For the amount/frequency I brew, there isn't a strongly compelling reason for me to change to something else.

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