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A techy solution is to use one of several wireless hydrometers like Tilt, iSpindel or RAPT Pill, not that they don't have their own set of problems/challenges. I typically prefer low tech solutions, so yeah take a sample from the fermenter one way or another. I wouldn't ever put a hydrometer in...

Can't you remove the false bottom after the mash? If you can remove the false bottom, it will cause more of the IC to be submerged. It should help a little. If you plan on running the IC and PC at the same time, think about how your going to plumb that running off of one pump so the second pump...

When I moved to all grain, I built a 3v system using keggles, one pump and using a half barrel sanke as a fermenter. I mostly do one fermenter per batch unless I plan on a parti-gyle. Then I ferment the parti-gyle batch in a plastic bucket with no temperature control as my fermentation fridge is...

I ferment in a 1/2 barrel sanke too. After pitching yeast, I replace the original sanke spear and use a sanke D coupler with the check valves removed and add these push-to-connect fittings on the beer out and gas in ports of the coupler. Then things are connected up with EVABarrier tubing...

@RyPA - Your post above sounds like you are interested in the relative temperature change in different parts of the mash. The thermometer you link to may be good enough for relative temperature changes, but you won't know for sure. Notice there is no accuracy spec on the Amazon product web page...

I can understand your confusion. I was trying to hide a lot of details that most might not be interested in. Let me start by answering your questions. I believe you are thinking of a different use case that what I am. The use case I have is similar to carbonating a keg using gravity points...

I was hoping that you were using the sanke spear and figured out an ingenious way to connect a floating dip tube to the spear. I don't have any pin lock or ball lock connectors or posts in my setup and want to stay away from them just to keep things simpler. I do everything with sanke kegs...

@mac_1103 Yes, I believe it would, but that is after the fact. What I am asking for is a tool that would help you determine at what gravity to seal up the fermenter based on expected FG and desired volume of CO2 or end pressure at a specific temperature. I have found the following in a post from...

Hey @doug293cz - Do you have a similar spreadsheet that incorporates volume of CO2 generated from gravity points in addition to everything else that is already in the spreadsheet you attached above? I am thinking of a scenario where a spunded fermenter is sealed before fermentation is complete.

Do you think you still have more than ambient pressure in your corny keg fermenters during the cold crash or are you sure the pressure is less than ambient during the cold crash? Are using a spunding valve or sealing the corny fermenter with many gravity points before FG is achieved? Or adding...

@Bramling Cross : When you use a floating dip tube with a sanke, are you using the sanke spear? If so how do you connect the two? If you are not using the sanke spear, what’s your sanke setup? Has the sanke been modified? Pictures please!

After you verify with a voltmeter that there is voltage on the power terminals of the PID; I would expect some part of the display is on at this point. If voltage is good and there is nothing on the display, my guess is that there is a problem/failure with the internal AC to DC voltage...

Pictures please of Bobby’s good welds and it would be fun to see the not so good welds too!

Could you describe the functions of the two switches?

I think the reason your fermonster is depressurizing is because the CO2 is going into solution. With a spunding valve, the CO2 has plenty of time to equalize in the head space and the beer. Another option is to use a low pressure regulator like those used for propane tanks on bar-be-ques along...

Another option is to use the your dispensing keg as your accumulation vessel to purge it and put a spunding valve on the output of the serving keg. Best to add the spunding valve after the first couple days of fermentation.

Ahh, right. Thanks. I use the defaults, so they seem to work fine for me. I am not sure what I would adjust the HSI to, even if I wanted. Keep in mind, I am not a hop head. For someone who is, HSI might be worth paying more attention to.

Sorry, I am blanking. What is HSI?

I use the hop age tool in BS for every batch. I find it to be helpful. I don’t brew high IBU beers, mostly between 20 and 35 IBUs. I buy hops in bulk and keep them in the freezer in non-purged nor vacuum sealed bags once opened. Often I brew with hops that are several years old. For these...

@ Jeffery Fifield - I think understanding the concepts and developing plans for back sweetening and arresting fermentation would help you tremendously. If needed, you can learn more about these by searching in the Cider forum. Below are some suggestions that you might consider. 1. I like to back...