Recent content by TheHopfather

@Silver_Is_Money ah, okay so its inside Mash Made Easy. It sounded like you were beta testing a separate version elsewhere. I typically use BruNWater so I'm not super familiar with yours, I'll give it a shot. @Robert65 just so I've got this right, your formula would like look something like...

So what are you guys doing in order to calculate the acid addition in the boil? I like the ideas in this thread and would like to give it a shot, just curious if there is an easy way to calculate the acid addition after the mash is complete. Are you just adding acid, checking pH and adjusting...

Intertaps. I swapped out my Perlicks for Intertaps and haven't looked back. I'm a big fan of being able to swap out the faucet ends on the Intertaps. I've got the growler filler, stout and ball lock ends for mine and I use them all. Cleaning the kegerator is especially nice with the ball...

I just did a sour and had a slow ferment as well. Wort was at 3.44 pH when I added some US-05, it ended up taking 10 days to hit FG. Normally my beer would hit FG is about half that time. You have to keep in mind that a 3.4-ish pH is not an ideal environment for our little yeasties. They are...

I think that 1/4" lines are for commercial Sanke keg setups typically. Homebrewers usually use corny kegs and 3/16" lines. I don't have any 1/4" lines anywhere in my setup so its hard to comment. I can tell you that I run 11' of 3/16" lines in my kegerator and it pours like a champ. Seems...

The Brulosophy guys have an article up on reducing cold side oxidation. They've got the mylar balloon method listed in the article. I think people are just taping the balloon to the tubing when they do this, nothing super fancy. I'd like to find a mylar balloon with a pressure release valve...

Are you adding real blueberries or are you adding blueberry flavoring? If you are just adding flavoring just go ahead and do it in the primary or at bottling time. If it is real fruit you should pasteurize the fruit, then add the fruit to the empty, sanitized secondary and rack the beer on top...

Your picture doesn't load for me. My NEIPA's look and taste fine right after kegging as well. I just think that they taste better at the 2 week mark. The hops are just too "raw", for lack of a better description after just a couple days of being kegged.

Your first picture just looks like a bunch of gunk that settled in the bottom of the keg. Gunk being the highly technical term for trub and yeast. I wouldn't sweat it at this point. Now this may not be a popular opinion here, but I think a lot of people like to drink their NEIPA's too soon...

I'm pretty sure I saw AJ and Martin talking about how 30 minutes is the better length of time to wait to sample these days. I recirculate my mash so everything is all mixed up already. I just dip a shot glass into the wort, put the shot glass in a bowl of ice water to cool it quickly. Make...

I've got a couple of Tilt's that I got this Christmas. I have never once had the Tilt reading match my hydrometer reading, both SG and FG. I've calibrated my hydrometers in distilled water and I trust them. Funnily enough both of my Tilt's read 1.000 in distilled water, but they don't seem...

Entered.

You've got some good advice so far. You've basically got 2 things you can do to fix your foaming issue (3 if buy new taps). I'd start with the beverage line as that is the easiest and cheapest to fix. Here is a link to the only line length calculator worth using...

Check out this thread, it has the info you are looking for; https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/closed-transfer-from-fermonster-big-mouth-bubblers.585875/

Uhhh, how big is it? I can't find any info on batch size or exterior dimensions. Looks really nice.