Recent content by Jimmyjim

It is still available. Excellent condition. Lives inside on a rolling stand. Step filter is original, no cracking so far. No parts have been replaced. Only reason I am selling is a new Z1 is on its way. What is your Zip?

Used Zymatic for sale. Unit has 16 brew sessions on it. Cleaned and rinsed per Pico's recommended schedule. I have not had any errors on this machine. Will ship in original box with all original accessories. (Minus the keg) $800 + Free Lower 48 Shipping

Try first wort hopping the next time you brew this one. 5 or 6 grams during lautering, then use the rest of that ounce (or some other hop)l ater in the boil to bring up the IBU's........

I have been using Yooper's schedule, after trying many different ones. 10 Days in the primary, unless it's a higher gravity beer. No secondary unless it's absolutely required. (ie, fruit, etc.) Sometimes I cold crash the primary, sometimes I don't. Rack to your keg. Force carb - 30 PSI for...

I am currently using this one. Pretty quiet, same as my chest freezer noise wise. http://www.beveragefactory.com/refrigerators/beer/sbc500bv.shtml One big problem though. It won't hold 4 ball lock kegs. The compressor hump gets in the way. I have two pin locks I converted to solve the problem.

My opinion. Skip the secondary. Cold crashing will reduce the amount of sediment that will settle in your keg. I have done this both ways, no noticeable difference in taste. 2-3 weeks on gas in the kegerator and it's good to go.

Use RO water.... Along with this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/brewing-water-chemistry-primer-198460/

Here ya go..... http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/carbonation.html?17118294#tag

That's a pretty large range of beers. My first thoughts. 1. Indoor or outdoor wedding? If outdoors, what's the normal temperature that time of year? Where I live it's too hot for stouts and porters in late summer, IMO. 2. Do you know the audience? Lots of craft beer drinkers...

I use FWH in quite a few of my recipes as BIAB'er. Pull the bag, let it strain, fire up the burner and drop in the FWH amount. Easy as that.

Possibly a bad QD on the beer side allowing CO2 into the beer line? Are all of your O rings lubed well? At 38 degrees that yeast isn't still active..... Yeast sediment in the bottom is normal.

I'd skip the secondary, especially for a brown ale. FYI, many of us skip the secondary these days, for most beers anyways. If you think the temp was closer to 60F, move the fermenter to a warmer spot and rouse the yeast a little. Wait a few more days then bottle/keg.

Mashing @ 140 would be too low IMO. Malty & Sticky sweet are two different subjects, that get intertwined. You can have a malty beer, that is relatively dry mouthfeel wise. Likewise, you can have a malty beer that is cloyingly sweet. Look around on here for recipes that use C80, there a quite...

I'd use the US-05, based on your options. I like to use WLP 051 generally for blondes. With a .046 beer, you'll be below 5% ABV. 154 mash temp will be just fine IMO.

I use the 44qt with a basket, and do 6 gallon batches. I normally brew lower gravity stuff, but on the occasion I brew a bigger beer .065+. I have to reduce the strike water volume, then rinse the grain bag after mashing to get the desired boil volume. It works just fine, with a small...