This subject seems to be absent from all the BIAB articles (for which many thanks) and I can't find any reference to it in the forums. Yet in the Pale Ale recipe there is an item Crystal 40. Presumably the method described includes this item in the mash despite the fact (I'm told) that in a...
.... and then there's the recent article about "raw ale" in which the mash lasts at least 4 hours but - but there is no boiling of the mash, just the hops. Apparently, as has been said above, if you are careful to maintain temperatures and don't let the mash go below "about" 150F it's like...
Sounds as if you have a "big" beer there. I suggest leave it alone. Let it be. Less fiddling with it and let the yeast do its work. Maybe at 2 weeks rack it off the dead yeast and then leave it alone - for weeks or even months.
Just brew it as an ale, especially with Safale US-05. It wont be a true Oktoberfest but it will still be enjoyable. Yes, put the bottles in the fridge 2 weeks before opening.
The tails of your chiller (one in and one out) should be long enough to be away from any flames. I had garden hose fittings on the ends of mine for years. And if you do have flames coming up the sides then you need a bigger kettle.
Well, that's sad! Sounds more like a commercial than an objective report..... I've had 4 used kegs from a variety of sources for more than 11 years of home brewing and they still work fine. I believe the secret (if there is one) is basic cleaning and sterilizing plus regular stripping down...
Hallelujah! Good for you. Too many numbers. Too much debate about matters that can be ignored.
Hallelujah! Good for you. My outlook is even more limited. I only brew the 1 beer I like. Good luck to all these beer scientists!
5 gallons of beer resulting from the homebrew process
1.5 gallons lost to evaporation, grain absorption, etc. during the brew
6.5 gallons hot water for cleaning with PBW through the system before brewing
6.5 gallons hot water to flush the system before brewing
6.5 gallons to sterilize the...