This article is very true but not 100%..You can bottle condition a bad beer for extended periods of time and end up with liquid dog feces..patience does not heal all wounds..it helps most of the time but does not heal every batch..I have a bunch of bottles 6 weeks in that are just as bad as it...
This article is very true but not 100%..You can bottle condition a bad beer for extended periods of time and end up with liquid dog feces..patience does not heal all wounds..it helps most of the time but does not heal every batch..I have a bunch of bottles 6 weeks in that are just as bad as it...
Everyone... i love this forum..but i keep fu$$ing up brews and throwing away hard earned pay... i have to quit or my bank will run dry...its a sad reality i have to face and i dont know what im gonna do with myself..actually i can keep buying beer i forgot about that
A bunch of dingle berries came to my house which is for sale unannounced and distracted me causing me to ruin my batch of beer and had to dump it before it made it to the boil kettle..its killing me right now..i want to put my head thru the wall
I brewed a dead ringer kit the other day undershot my gravity by quite a bit should have been 1063 i was somewhere between 1045-1050 hydrometer broke before i took a post boil OG reading..anyway the beer already has 4oz of centennials and calls for 1oz DH for 1-2 weeks..Since i undershot should...
Can one just do an infusion mash at say 160-165*F to get a starchy mash instead of doing a turbid mash? I know the turbid mash is authentic way of making sours/lambics but will a high temp infusion mash yield a high starch unconverted wort suitable for sours? Or is a TM the only way?
If i am not mistaken it produced a less sour beer pitching sacch first correct?..Anyway reason i dont want to just pitch the WY lambic is i do not brew sours in my regular gear and have a 5 gallon carboy sitting around that i am willing to dedicate to this sour..I was hesitant to brew a sour but...