Recent content by 65C

The biggest things I learned from brewing over what I read about brewing before I started is that: 1. beer/yeast etc. seem a lot more tolerant of things than I expected - like use-by dates on yeast packets or re-using yeast cakes (one yeast cake I've used a dozen or more times without any...

They're glass demis - I think one of the 3 airlocks might have gone a little dry but not completely (maybe enough to let some air in - but that one batch seems to bubble a few times a day even after 12 months so possible no oxygen got in) They have been wrapped in towels at room temp - they all...

Thanks just found a couple of other threads - looks like half or so sache of champagne yeast in the bottling bucket might be way to go Maybe I'll try that with one batch first and leave the others until I know I've not got exploding bottles

I've got 3 x 20L primaries with 8%+ heavy dark porters - I've been super lazy about bottling They look just fine, but I've not touched them yet Are they going to be okay to condition if I bottle them after so long? (I thought they'd only been there a few months, but after looking at my notes...

you could try using Maris Otter as the main grain - it has that sweeter malty flavour - especially when I mash 68Cish ironically I spend a lot of time trying to minimise the sweet/malty so I dilute the MO down with something more inert

bizarrely my big beers haven't blown off before - but some IPAs have - I always use a tube now - no matter what I'm brewing - even them I've had a tube block and a fridge redecorated before after a week I move warmer and put an airlock on

using up pils is easy - you can put it in any MO recipe - I use 40% pils / 50% MO quite often I like the odd full pils but find it hard to use a full bag up - also I find MO on it's own too strong a flavour - so it works out well (also makes the beer clearer) I have read people say boil pils...

I cool wort to 80C and dump the flavour hops in then for an hour so - give a good stir I read a lot of different approaches on it and temps - but this seems to work for me - although I'm not a hop freak as much as I was - so don't dryhop - but I do chuck 100 or 200g in at the end still

@Dcpcooks - I did think just after I posted it - that it was hypocrisy - I think nothing of buying in stuff at work I could do myself - knowing the margin that's being binned in the process

brilliant thread the one on the right looks promising you might need to get some airlocks on or they'll pop I don't measure ABV etc. but I do tend to start with known bacteria - I love the thinking on this and might start taking some 1 gallon second runnings for some experimental innoculations

high carbonated hoppy brews seem to work in a can - but I'll take a bottle every time - cans have a taste I can't describe - and bottles I can re-use so feel less guilty about drinking someone else's (expensive) beer

surely you can buy canned NEIPA in any major city now? the problem I have (usually when buying a couple of cans for a train journey home) is finding a decent local non-NEIPA/non-black-IPA/non-ultrahopped-IPA beer in a can I'm not buying a city like Seattle doesn't have entire stores full of...

with those hops you really can't go wrong I'd use 1oz Chinook for bittering and Cascade/Amarillo at flameout/80C - then dry hop with remaining Cascade/Amarillo - you could use 4oz or 16oz - either way you'll have good beer with an IPA grain bill I used to love Citra and it got me in to brewing...

why would you not just build a big starter at that price? - it's only time not materials the idea of paying 10X more for 10X more yeast just seems absolutely bonkers to me

this is a road I've walked a bit MO is the big local grain - I drive behind trucks full of MO taking the kids to school ... so feel compelled to use it when I started brewing I liked the idea of smash (and I've had some great ones in pubs) however MO, for me, has a sweet/malty taste which I...