another yellow leaves thread

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BWN

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I started my rhizomes in pots in potting soil because I didn't have my trellis built yet. Once I built my trellis I put them in the ground I dug 18" diameter holes and 18" deep and filled with compost. I have clay soil but I don't think that the roots have reached the clay yet. They grew fast for a while but have now almost stopped. and the top leaves are turning yellow. They are still growing but at a much slower rate. I thought maybe it was over watering so I stopped adding water for the last 3 days. It has been hot and no rain and the soil is fairly dry. I can't figure out how to post underneath the pictures. The first 2 are Cascade, the second 2 are Centennial, and the fifth one is Columbus. Any thoughts?

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Yellowing is so hard to diagnose... It could be overwatering, a nitrogen deficiency, or poor drainage just to name a few. If you dug a pit like you described I can't see it being the second two. They aren't crispy so it isn't too much nitrogen. Do you have any gopher problems?
 
No gopher problems. If it was over watering how long before they come around if I don't water them? They have not gotten dry and crispy yet. With the compost I doubt it would be a nitrogen problem. I know yellow leaves are hard to diagnose, I found out trying to search for threads on this topic.
 
If its from overwatering the yellowing leaves may not return to the state you would like, but the new growth should be healthy and green. Hops really don't need that much water. They like to have their toes moist and their ankles dry, if that makes any sense
 
Iron. These iron-deficient leaves (see Web Figure 5.1.L) show strong chlorosis at the base of the leaves with some green netting. The most common symptom for iron deficiency starts out as an interveinal chlorosis of the youngest leaves, evolves into an overall chlorosis, and ends as a totally bleached leaf. The bleached areas often develop necrotic spots. Up until the time the leaves become almost completely white they will recover upon application of iron. In the recovery phase the veins are the first to recover as indicated by their bright green color. This distinct venial re-greening observed during iron recovery is probably the most recognizable symptom in all of classical plant nutrition. Because iron has a low mobility, iron deficiency symptoms appear first on the youngest leaves. Iron deficiency is strongly associated with calcareous soils and anaerobic conditions, and it is often induced by an excess of heavy metals.

Check out link

http://5e.plantphys.net/image.php?id=379
 
Iron. These iron-deficient leaves (see Web Figure 5.1.L) show strong chlorosis at the base of the leaves with some green netting. The most common symptom for iron deficiency starts out as an interveinal chlorosis of the youngest leaves, evolves into an overall chlorosis, and ends as a totally bleached leaf. The bleached areas often develop necrotic spots. Up until the time the leaves become almost completely white they will recover upon application of iron. In the recovery phase the veins are the first to recover as indicated by their bright green color. This distinct venial re-greening observed during iron recovery is probably the most recognizable symptom in all of classical plant nutrition. Because iron has a low mobility, iron deficiency symptoms appear first on the youngest leaves. Iron deficiency is strongly associated with calcareous soils and anaerobic conditions, and it is often induced by an excess of heavy metals.

Check out link

http://5e.plantphys.net/image.php?id=379

Agreed. Also check these out:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_deficiency_(plant_disorder)

http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/problems/leaf-chlorosis-and-iron.htm

Find some chelated iron at your local hardware or garden shop.
 
Thanks, I will look into getting some chelated iron after work today.
 
All I could find was a product called Ironite. Does anyone have any experience with this?
 
You can use ironite if you already have a good fertilizer to go with it, or just get something with macros and micros including iron. Ironite is added to some fertilizers already. Read the label to see. Check sprinkler shops, lawn mower shops and nurseries.
 
I don't have any other fertilizer to go with it but have it planted in very good compost. Unfortunately I checked all the garden centers around Lowes was the only place that had anything like that.
 
It is a 12-10-10 so it has 12% nitrogen. I hope that is not too much. It has .02% Boron, 2% iron and .1% Zinc.
 
It is a 12-10-10 so it has 12% nitrogen. I hope that is not too much. It has .02% Boron, 2% iron and .1% Zinc.

That sounds like good stuff. The 12% is irrelevant. You could use 44% nitrogen fertilizer and it would still work. What's important is how much you apply and how often. Just use at recommended rate on bag, don't overdo it, water it in well, spray off the excess on the leaves and go from there.
 
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