• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

STC 1000 "Ebay" Temperature Controller Build

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Bought 2 of these on Amazon last week and just assembled them today. As you can see, I installed one to the back and one to the front of the project boxes.

Awesome info on here and they both work like a charm. Now I just need a batch to ferment/keg!!

TempController.jpg
 
Bought 2 of these on Amazon last week and just assembled them today. As you can see, I installed one to the back and one to the front of the project boxes.

Awesome info on here and they both work like a charm. Now I just need a batch to ferment/keg!!

I made one of these the other day too. $40 here, $20 there, a closet full of equipment. Wasn't this supposed to save me money, brewing my own beer?
 
I am going to build two controllers for a fermentation chamber build I am about to undertake. Has anyone wired in computer fans to the controller such that the fan will turn on when either the cool or heat receptacle is powered on. Essentially I want the fan to run while temp controls are engaged and to be off when temps are steady. Any thoughts?
 
I am going to build two controllers for a fermentation chamber build I am about to undertake. Has anyone wired in computer fans to the controller such that the fan will turn on when either the cool or heat receptacle is powered on. Essentially I want the fan to run while temp controls are engaged and to be off when temps are steady. Any thoughts?

You could do it with two cell phone chargers and some diodes using one fan, or you could use a separate cell phone charger and fan on each of the heating and cooling circuits. Easier, I think, would be to have the fan on at all times. That way works for me and holds temperatures very steady.
 
You could do it with two cell phone chargers and some diodes using one fan, or you could use a separate cell phone charger and fan on each of the heating and cooling circuits. Easier, I think, would be to have the fan on at all times. That way works for me and holds temperatures very steady.

It has crossed my mind to just have them run continuously, however, I want to minimize wear on the fans as much as a I can. I suppose if they die it would be easy enough to pop new ones in. Cheers!
 
It has crossed my mind to just have them run continuously, however, I want to minimize wear on the fans as much as a I can. I suppose if they die it would be easy enough to pop new ones in. Cheers!

In most ferm chambers the heating or cooling is only on a small fraction of the time. Running a fan for only those very short periods isn't going to do anything to prevent temp stratification, which I'd assume is why you want a fan in there.
 
It has crossed my mind to just have them run continuously, however, I want to minimize wear on the fans as much as a I can. I suppose if they die it would be easy enough to pop new ones in. Cheers!

I would just run it all of the time. I have a computer fan that has been running for the last 9 years, wear is not important.
 
Just ordered one on Amazon to use in a fridge I just picked up as a fermenting chamber. My question is, do I need a heat source in the fridge? Or do I only need to worry about hooking up the cooling side?
 
br3ds0x said:
Just ordered one on Amazon to use in a fridge I just picked up as a fermenting chamber. My question is, do I need a heat source in the fridge? Or do I only need to worry about hooking up the cooling side?

Depends on the ambient temps where he term fridge will be. If it's somewhere like a garage where ambient temps will get down below your desired ferm temp, then you'll need a heat source. The light bulb in a paint can is cheap and works well.
 
JuanMoore said:
Depends on the ambient temps where he term fridge will be. If it's somewhere like a garage where ambient temps will get down below your desired germ temp, then you'll need a heat source. The light bulb in a paint can is cheap and works well.

Got it, thanks.
 
Glad to see this thread is still kicking. I just convinced my friend to order it, and he doesn't even have a single keg yet.
 
Just got mine wired. Thanks to all in this and the other stc1000 thread for the tips on getting it up and running.
stc1000.jpg
 
Just got mine wired. Thanks to all in this and the other stc1000 thread for the tips on getting it up and running.
stc1000.jpg

Don't know if I'd want to mount one in a flammable container, but that's pretty damn cool.

...a couple screws on mine have come loose on their own, that's why I say that :mug:
 
Don't know if I'd want to mount one in a flammable container, but that's pretty damn cool.

...a couple screws on mine have come loose on their own, that's why I say that :mug:

Thanks. I was actually wondering about the wood thing. I have done two stir plates in the same boxes, but they have far less juice going into them. If people think it is dangerous I can move the innards to something metal. I just had loads of these boxes sitting around and don't know any better.
 
If you have an in-line fuse (like you should) you have nothing to worry about.
 
Kinda an off the wall question/thought. I have been using my ferm chamber for about 6 months now. I am also aging some beers and wine(in carboys) in the chamber. It occurred to me (unless I am mistaken) as Co2 fills the chamber it should help protect my aging stuff right?
 
It can still spark with a fuse or breaker. Just not a good practice

Sure, and just about any material is flammable to some point. A cigar box should be fine. I wouldn't worry about it. Just do it right the first time.
 
Sure, and just about any material is flammable to some point. A cigar box should be fine. I wouldn't worry about it. Just do it right the first time.

The flammability of an old dried out cigar box versus an electrical junction box are a bit different ;) And doing it right the first time doesn't mean anything when you're working with cheap unreliable screw terminals on the stc1000.
 
The flammability of an old dried out cigar box versus an electrical junction box are a bit different ;)

This is true :) BUT! Who uses an electrical junction box for this project? Seems a bit overkill to me (and it doesn't look as cool as the cigar box). Just keep an eye on your connections every now and then and make sure nothing is shorting out. Cheers to innovation.
 
The flammability of an old dried out cigar box versus an electrical junction box are a bit different ;) And doing it right the first time doesn't mean anything when you're working with cheap unreliable screw terminals on the stc1000.

I have been trying to think of a liner that could go in the box and make a little more fire resistant. Fiberglass can be time consuming and the other options are too $$$.

Check your smoke detectors function and go with it.

:mug:
 
I have been trying to think of a liner that could go in the box and make a little more fire resistant. Fiberglass can be time consuming and the other options are too $$$.

Check your smoke detectors function and go with it.

:mug:

There's a thin lining called formex made for this type of thing. It's a flame retardand polypropylene which you can cut to shape. itwformex.com
 
The wooden box is probably OK, just not my choice.

This is true :) BUT! Who uses an electrical junction box for this project? Seems a bit overkill to me...

Me. I really like "overkill" safety with 120 or 240VAC. Our house was wired creatively by the previous owners. A loose screw (literally) on an outlet and all the lights went out and the offending outlet melted. We wuz lucky it stopped there.

So color me nervous. No worries. I will go with PVC or steel J-boxes designed for the purpose. A 3-gang box will fit the controller and 2 outlets. Other project housings are OK.

A proper enclosure will not stop damage from bad work, just slow it down.
 
http://nordeastbrewersalliance.file...age_temp_controller_creation_instructions.pdf

Great reference with info on how to wire the indicator lamps as well. I used all the part #s in this PDF and it came together perfectly.

Just pulled the trigger on my first STC-1000 (currently $19.28 on Amazon). Going to use the above-referenced .pdf as my guide. I notice that his wiring diagram includes a 10A fuse, but his parts list does not.

What's been the general experience of other STC-1000 users? Is the fuse needed? No?

I will be using this in my ferm chamber (an old top freezer/bottom fridge refrigerator). The outlet I have the current analog controller and fridge plugged into is a GFI, if that makes a difference.

Full disclosure. The fridge is very old and does have a loose or bare wire somewhere. If there is too much other load on the circuit, it's been known to trip the GFI. For the most part though, it operates fine in my garage as a ferm chamber when I have a batch going, and beer cooler when I do not.
 
Back
Top