"My take on keezer coffin (Dual fridge K6)

Ordered the parts over the last two weeks and will begin tomorrow. Plans are to frame up 2x4 into cabinet to house dual mini-fridges and have 6 functional taps. I made a 3 corney kegerator using a lucky sized 4.3 mini fridge, named it K3. This is expanding on that original idea and building water cooled towers w taps instead of door shanks.

To be brief:
Dual zone control via separate fridges(3 kegs each), six 575SS faucets and SS shanks chilled by aquarium cooler. (glycol)

Pics to come.

Latest Pic (still lots to do)

Attached 3 shots of various stages of framing and test fit.

I recommend anyone building something similar shoot for the 24" wide since boards at hardware stores come in 48" sheets, makes for material re-use.

Adding some shots of original "K3"


Chopped and repositioned internals to fit two 5 gal kegs and one 3 gallon. (hacked door laying on ground in far right)

Side panels on, now onto kicker n frame. Gotta grab a mitre

Framing up nice

cool idea...is it going to be raised up at all for access to those taps without bending over for those lumbar challenged people?

bwomp313 said:

cool idea...is it going to be raised up at all for access to those taps without bending over for those lumbar challenged people?

Click to expand...

Judging from the casters already mounted on the bottom, I'd guess: nope...

Cheers!

The low dispense point of original fridge is why I decided to build a cabinet. Adding a second "wheel chair friendly" set of 3 taps didn't seem worth the effort.

I bought piping and insulation to run the 6 beer lines along with 2 water cooled copper lines up into a dispense tower in the top. Playing around with top design ideas now....Trying to figure out how to incorporate crown moudling piece I have but not happy yet.

Decided on a design, here's some progress:

6 taps 4" apart. Dispense will be tall enough for even larger pils glasses.

Finished building pieces to skin the tower, onto finishing the deck and then plumbing....


Btw added second layer of wood to deck w/ shims to correct/hide any issues with angle on top. Turned out great. Used filling foam to firm up under surface after using shims to get aligned.

Thinking of chalk board as the surface under the taps so I can have nice handles and still "market" as to what each one is.

Thoughts?


BTW what a great country where we can spend our time working on hobbies we love.

Oh the fun of running lines...


At least the camera is now catching more of the red hues the wood has.

Nice project are you just scrapping the taps on the front of the fridge you have now and plumbing direct to the tap tower on the top?

Noticed an error in the angle of the tower, don't want my beer flowing out sideways. Added more trim. Now have to gut the new fridge and setup the water chiller (1/2" to 3/8" adaption seen peeking out in pic below)

Brew-ta-sauraus said:

Nice project are you just scrapping the taps on the front of the fridge you have now and plumbing direct to the tap tower on the top?

Click to expand...

Going to use foam filler to seal those holes and re-use the shanks. Yes scrapping the taps on the door and going with 575SS up top.

Bleh, turns out Haier likes to run copper lines throughout the side of the fridge....Luckily I only slightly pierced the line. Going to have to solder that closed and recharge the system w/ saddle valve.

Supco bullet valve to recharge second fridge should arrive by this weekend. Really fought with running the lines, mistakenly tried to go from fridge upwards, only to fail.

I recommend running lines from shanks downwards since piping gets so tight fitting that any lack/excess hose totally screws you up.

Running copper chilled pipe through tubes and around shanks. Eventually used black 3/8" plastic tubing to make tight turns.


Shot of piping which gave me such grief


First attempt at making heatsinks to get cold into the shanks, fill improve and then wrap all exposed copper in foam.

That looks pretty tough. Good job on getting it done tho. Those Perlicks sure are pretty. And I bet that glycol cooling will have it super chilled! Nice!

Wow wish I had known they sell preformed/wrapped lines for running glycol, would of saved me lots of time.

http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/glycol-pid-CDI642.html

I seriously wish I had expendable cash to do this right now... i'm going to have to suck it up and make my own "K3" and wait to expand to this later

CCBrewer said:

I seriously wish I had expendable cash to do this right now... i'm going to have to suck it up and make my own "K3" and wait to expand to this later

Click to expand...

The 4.5Cf Haier mini fridge is a great fridge to start with. I only had to trim down the door and move the thermostat back a few inches to fit two 5 gal kegs and one 3 gal keg on the step.

But careful if you ever plan to put holes in the side, will hit copper lines.

Using sandpaper, flux paste and some solder I was able to seal up the pinhole damage to the copper high side lines.

Supco piercing bullet valve on low side:


Got a bullet valve and R12 adapter stem to feed into the 134a recharge can. Added some 134a and resurrected the Haier!

FROSTY!

Turns out I did need to trim the interior of the Haier 4.5cf fridge to make the 3 corney kegs fit comfortably. I made a shelf in the back and trimmed down one of the sides. (still easier than sawing both sides and all around in 4.3cf danby)

sj_engr said:

Using sandpaper, flux paste and some solder I was able to seal up the pinhole damage to the copper high side lines.

Supco piercing bullet valve on low side:
<img src="https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49336"/>

Got a bullet valve and R12 adapter stem to feed into the 134a recharge can. Added some 134a and resurrected the Haier!

FROSTY!

Click to expand...

This guy is serious DIY. Nice job on tackling the problem.

After a drained tank due to tiny leak in new fittings and a bunch of trim added....DONE!



Tap#1 Oaked Pale Ale
Tap#2 TreeTop Cider
Tap#3 Strong Dunkel
Tap#4 Spring Saison
Tap#5 American Ale
Tap#6 Scotch Ale