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I have used the mittler bros. dimple dies on my heat shields with no rust issues but that is on a flat heat shield on a keg they would not work because they would make contact on the outer edges and cause a flat spot or worse tear the keg.
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Pat
 
I have used the mittler bros. dimple dies on my heat shields with no rust issues but that is on a flat heat shield on a keg they would not work because they would make contact on the outer edges and cause a flat spot or worse tear the keg.
img1437.jpg

Pat

Just crapped myself after seeing this picture. Ooops.
 
I have used the mittler bros. dimple dies on my heat shields with no rust issues but that is on a flat heat shield on a keg they would not work because they would make contact on the outer edges and cause a flat spot or worse tear the keg.
img1437.jpg

Pat

Just crapped myself after seeing this picture. Ooops.



A very nice system to be sure. A lot there to be very proud of.

lehr,
you are a true craftsman :mug:


On the topic though....I wonder how much water this rig has seen?
 
I am not a weldor, but I have dabbled in it from time to time. I know enough about TIG welding to make me love my wire-feed for everything but keg work.

If you used a carbon steel tool to do work on stainless, couldn't you pickle any CS residue off? I'd just as soon avoid the problem by avoiding the contamination, but if worst came to worst remember: better living through chemistry!

I haven't searched for it, but I remember seeing guys use pickling paste to re-passivate welds on stainless tanks, and there are plenty of acids that will dissolve carbon steel but not stainless. Oxalic acid (aka Barkeeper's Friend) is one of those.

All this said, I have half-barrels to chop into keggles and I'm 99% sure they'll be weldless.
 
lehr, do you have a build thread? Or any complete picture of your setup? I would love to see them. Awesome work!
 
Greenmonti it's seen 193 gallons of beer made in it and plenty of water to clean it up.

Thanks Pat

You keep that thing shinned up real nice from what I have seen. You may never see any fungus due to all the polishing. I hope you never have an issue. That's one heck of a nice system.

Happy Brewing.
 
Just crapped myself after seeing this picture. Ooops.

I have used the mittler bros. dimple dies on my heat shields with no rust issues but that is on a flat heat shield on a keg they would not work because they would make contact on the outer edges and cause a flat spot or worse tear the keg.
img1437.jpg

Pat

Good lord that is sweet, Ill be getting m keggle tomorrow and hopefully I can get mine that clean, it is electric so hopefully it'll stay really clean also.
 
Sorry if I skipped over something with the answer, but I am an impatient ADD type. I have a friend with a gear puller, and kegs are about 16.5" dia, I can make a brace block out of wood.

If Chromium is what makes steel stainless, and the back side of the keg in question looks "over rounded", like a huge drywall dimpler, do they make a dimpler thing thats chrome plated? (Or even better a huge hollow (bolt-holed) cone that can be drawn to a set level?)
 
Here is how it is done. Its made of SS. The gold looking piece is made of Ampco 20. Ampco is a cold drawn brass that is hard as he!!. The higher the number the harder the brass. I wouldn't go above 20. Regular brass wont work its too soft. The Ampco is self lubrication and doesn't contaminate the SS when drawn through.

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At long last the secret is revealed! I assume you turn down those couplers before use. Nice tool, I love shop made tools.
 
At long last the secret is revealed! I assume you turn down those couplers before use. Nice tool, I love shop made tools.


I polish off the casting but that is it. The cone shaped piece is about .015" smaller then the coupling. This allows a little for the polish and it lets the coupling size the final hole, making for a very snug fit. It takes a hammer to move it to the final resting place.
 
Cool. I would have thought that the outer sleeve would have had to match the curve of the keg shell. that was the part that was throwing me off.

Thank You very much for sharing this.
 
i like your tool. :)

pretty ingenious. I'll never do that cause i don't weld and wasnt satisfied with the last weld i had done, so it's all weldless. However, if i were a weldor (yes, that's proper subjunctive, too), then i would definitely use this to attempt to make mine as pretty as yours. Great work!
 
Curious though. Why'd you decide to give it up after holding out?


I never wanted too keep it from anyone. (ask Yuri Rage) I always give up/out my secretes. It has been eating at me hard, and I have been thinking of posting it up for a couple of weeks now. I received a PM asking about it ,and I figured that wasn't just by chance.
 
As most know that when working with stainless steel you must be very carefull about what comes in contact with the stainless. Wire brushes are probly the biggest example of this.

The Movie Silverado: Image of the Kevin Costner's character, condemned to hang, in the jail cell when Robin Williams' character has just been also locked up and turns to the bars saying "You are making a big mistake." And Costner slaps his knee and exclaims: "THAT'S WHAT I TOLD 'EM~!!"

It's my favorite line of the movie.

It goes for every thing. If a carbon source gets on the surface and the stainless gets to its magic temp of 800-1600 degrees, then it will become what is known as sensitized.

Id.


The only real fix is to do a solution heat treat on the material to get it back to where it once was.

Which solution is comprised of annealing the metal.
I've always done this by heating it up again and cooling it very slowly.
I don't know what the temp', soak, and ramp down are.
Lots of guys I've known just use some abrasive in the discoloration to get rid of it.


So, we must think about all things that come in contact with the stainless. Drilling we are pretty much screwed on.

Well not entirely screwed, just mostly screwed (forgive me Miracle Max). You can always take a small grinder or a couple sheets of abrasive to the holes and clean them up.

Every thing else we can controll. When hammering on stainless it is best to use a chunk of stainless. Iron will embed in the surface and that iron will rust.

apply quote from Costner.



Yes I know I typed "weldor". It is a clairification in text. Here is the first bit from wikipedia.
A welder (also weldor, which term distinguishes the tradesman from the equipment used to make welds) is a tradesman who specialises in welding materials together.

And tradesman ( or person for the PC gang) is the dead on exact term.
I am persnickety about the use of words like trade, vocation, avocation and profession. I sure as hell don't want some professional monkeying around with my car's front end and then sending me out on the highway at 60 MPH. I want a tradesman~!! Preferably a Journeyman.
 
If you were holding out for patentability reasons, you still have your inventive rights even though it is disclosed. Briefly, you have one year (exactly) from the date of first public disclosure or offer for sale to file your invention with the U.S. Patent Office. Just because you told people doesn't mean you gave up your rights.

If you want to sell the idea to a company or shop, you can still do so as the inventor of the idea with patentable rights.

That said, who knows if this process is actually new... not me.
 
Unless its for a fermenter the weld really doesnt much matter as long as it doesnt leak.
Sure it looks nice.................

Boiling wort kills germs.
 
Boerderij_Kabouter
No I never had any thoughts of a patent. I am not the one who thought of the process of doing pull outs. I am just doing it in a way that works for us and doesn't require a machine.


babalu87
So, if you had your choice to have a weld done the normal way or this way which would you choose? The other way the couplings are normally welded on have the same issue with the sanitary status. Not to mention the threads and what not. It was never about sanitary. It is about the ease of welding. "IF" the weldor didn't back gas this type of weld meant, there would be no sugaring on the backside if he used little heat, ie...a small fusion weld. I don't recommend that though cause how would you scrub out the rust issue?
 
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