HBT members inspired me: My Keezer Project

jlandin · Dec 11, 2009

The brown truck brought my shanks and drip tray yesterday so I ran the beer lines.

Shank holes in the backsplash and duct:

Here's the insulated duct inside the coffin. For those wondering, that's R3. We'll see how it goes, I may double it up as I had extra.

The view inside the coffin looking up at the shanks entering the duct.

Beer lines ran, along with the gas lines complete.

And they're in!

Next up, my buddy is doing the tile tonight while I wire in the Love controller and install a compressor vent.

--
Josh

Handle · Dec 11, 2009

You are moving right along. Looks great -- can't wait to see the finished product.

bakins · Dec 11, 2009

HIM_Tattoos said:
I notice that you have the door propped open with a stick, has anyone put shocks on the lids to keep them open, like the hatch of a car. I know my RX-7 had some pretty small shocks for the hatch.

I used them, it works. I think I used a single 60lb one from McMaster-Carr with a similar setup as shown. Have since redid mine, so don't have it anymore.

johnnyc · Dec 11, 2009

jlandin said:
The brown truck brought my shanks and drip tray yesterday so I ran the beer lines.
The view inside the coffin looking up at the shanks entering the duct.

--
Josh

So on this are the shanks just slid into holes in the pvc or are they secured somehow?

jlandin · Dec 11, 2009

johnnyc said:
So on this are the shanks just slid into holes in the pvc or are they secured somehow?

Not secured, though they fit pretty snug. The duct is easily removable. To do so I just back-off the shank nuts nearly all the way and push the shanks forward (extending them out of the coffin) which allows them to "leave" the duct. Then the duct can be lifted out of the female bases and laid down. All the while the beer lines are sliding out the holes (still attached to the shanks) allowing me to change a line, etc.

--
Josh

schweaty · Dec 11, 2009

Beautiful build! At first I thought the caps looked cool but excellent choice going with the tile. Very impressive!

jlandin · Dec 14, 2009

The keezer has found its final resting place in my bar next to the pool table.

The love controller is in, and the wiring complete.

The tile is in:

I ended up putting a register vent on the compressor door. That thing gives more venting that the original louver cover that was there:

I added two kegs of Alt which is still conditioning. Picking up the half-barrel of Sierra Celebration later today. I can't want to pour the first pint off the keezer!

Now I need to get brewing and fill this thing up!

--
Josh

Chosenwon · Dec 14, 2009

Awesome. Just awesome. Great work Josh!

Teufelhunden · Dec 14, 2009

Very nice work! I will start my build in a couple of months, will use alot of what you done. again, very nice.

IrregularPulse · Dec 15, 2009

Very freeking nice. How heavy is the lid? You use a stick or something to hold it up?

jlandin · Dec 15, 2009

IrregularPulse said:
Very freeking nice. How heavy is the lid? You use a stick or something to hold it up?

Thanks! Yes, the lid is pretty damn heavy with the porcelain tile on it now. I cut down a large-diameter wooden dow to use as a prop and I keep that in the keezer.

--
Josh

skibumdc · Dec 15, 2009

Shoot, you might even want to get some automotive pistons like they use on car trunks and hoods to keep that lid open.
Or maybe make it spring loaded and have a latch to keep it closed?

jlandin · Dec 15, 2009

skibumdc said:
Shoot, you might even want to get some automotive pistons like they use on car trunks and hoods to keep that lid open.
Or maybe make it spring loaded and have a latch to keep it closed?

It's a great idea! Someone else mentioned that too, I might give it a try.

--
Josh

jlandin · Dec 15, 2009

Ok, so the total build cost was $965.03, specifics below:

Code:

Qty	 Total 		Item
1	 $150.00 	14.8 Cu Ft Fridgedaire Chest Freezer (used) 
4	 $107.80 	Perlick 525SS Faucets
15	 $97.50 	Porcelain Tile (sq ft)
1	 $65.00 	Love Controller TS-13010
4	 $53.80 	5 1/8 Faucet Shanks
1	 $53.05 	4 way Air Distributer
1	 $44.95 	14"x6" Stainless Drip Tray
5	 $44.90 	Pkg Grooved Pine 5/16x3.5"
6	 $28.32 	1x3x6' Pine Boards
4	 $21.44 	Gas Ball Lock Disconnects
1	 $19.99 	4" Fan
1	 $19.97 	19/32" Pine Plywood
8	 $19.92 	2x4x96 Pine Stud
4	 $17.80 	Shank Connection Kit with Stainless Tail
3	 $17.31 	1x6x1/2" Tube Insulation
1	 $14.45 	11/32" Pine Plywood
3	 $13.59 	2x6x8 Top Choice Pine
30	 $13.20 	3/16 Beer Hose (per foot)
1	 $11.99 	Polyurethane Varnish
2	 $10.92 	2 1/2" Industrial Swivel Casters
4	 $10.64 	5/16" Barbed Swivel Nuts for Disconnects
1	 $9.70 	14x8 Air Register
2	 $8.96 	3" PVC Spigot Flange
2	 $8.92 	2 1/2" Industrial Casters
2	 $8.92 	3" PVC Sweep Elbow
1	 $8.48 	1/4" Mini Ball Valve
16	 $8.48 	5/16 Gas Hose (per foot)
3	 $5.97 	5MM White 3.3V LED (2 per pkg)
2	 $5.96 	1/4 Female Coupler
1	 $5.87 	30W Extension Cord
1	 $5.49 	Metal Film Resistors (mixed pack)
2	 $4.58 	Male Hose End Fitting
1	 $4.49 	Poly-seam-seal adhesive Caulk
3	 $4.47 	LED Holder (2 per pkg)
1	 $4.37 	#4 Worm Clamps
4	 $4.16 	Pronged T-nuts
4	 $4.00 	Stainless Shank Flanges
1	 $3.99 	Rocker Switch 12V
2	 $3.78 	1/4"x1/4" NPT
1	 $3.57 	Hinges
1	 $3.44 	 Satin White Spray Paint
1	 $2.85 	1x2x6' Pine Boards
1	 $2.61 	5/16" Flat Washers
1	 $2.49 	Roller Door Catch
1	 $1.74 	Zip Cable Ties
4	 $1.20 	5/16 Hex Bolts

kegtoe · Dec 17, 2009

How is the frame around the top attached? IT seems that the fram would be pretty heavy and its jsut attached to the plywood.

jlandin · Dec 17, 2009

First pour :mug:

Great capacity, here's 4 corney's, a 1/2 barrel of Sierra Celebration, and still a bunch of room:

Slight modifications to the store's sanke connector

Cheers!

--
Josh

jlandin · Dec 17, 2009

kegtoe said:
How is the frame around the top attached? IT seems that the fram would be pretty heavy and its jsut attached to the plywood.

The coffin is attached to the 3/4 plywood using L-brackets. When you do this, make sure you pre-drill all holes. The coffin itself is really not that heavy.

Here are some pics of the L-brackets from the inside of the coffin:

--
Josh

skibumdc · Dec 17, 2009

How come of all the kezer coffins I see no one puts a fan or blower to keep the lines cold all the way to the tap?

jlandin · Dec 17, 2009

skibumdc said:
How come of all the kezer coffins I see no one puts a fan or blower to keep the lines cold all the way to the tap?

I have a 12V 4" fan which is going on the right-side duct opening. My build is rather fresh (just finished what you see here this past Sunday) so I haven't installed it yet, but I will in the next few days. It will kick on with the compressor. I expect it will help serve a dual-purpose by also keeping a uniform temperature within the Freezer itself.

--
Josh

kegtoe · Dec 17, 2009

Quote:
Originally Posted by kegtoe
How is the frame around the top attached? IT seems that the fram would be pretty heavy and its jsut attached to the plywood.

The coffin is attached to the 3/4 plywood using L-brackets. When you do this, make sure you pre-drill all holes. The coffin itself is really not that heavy.

Here are some pics of the L-brackets from the inside of the coffin:

Landin, i was refering to the fram aroune the entire top? how is that attached? Only to the plywood on the freezer lid?

skibumdc · Dec 17, 2009

Landin, a suggestion.
Make the fan that flows cold air into the beer line tube run full time, NOT just when the compressor runs.
The tube will warm up above 38* before the compressor kicks on and the CO2 will break out of the beer.

I've helped a lot of people out on regular kegerators (Summit/Sanyo/Danby/True, etc.) all benefit from tower cooling tremendously. Don't see why this little addition couldn't help you as well.
I've read up a lot at Micromatic's forum. Take a gander over there and see some of the ways people have built tower coolers well.

jlandin · Dec 17, 2009

skibumdc said:
Landin, a suggestion.
Make the fan that flows cold air into the beer line tube run full time, NOT just when the compressor runs.

Thanks for the tip!

--
Josh

jlandin · Dec 17, 2009

kegtoe said:
Landin, i was refering to the fram aroune the entire top? how is that attached? Only to the plywood on the freezer lid?

Yes. There are 3 pieces of trim going on there. They are all wood-glued, corners cut on 45's, and pneumatically stapled in place. The widest piece is vertical under the 3/4 plywood. Then a skinnier piece along the outer edge of the plywood, flush with the plywood surface. The third piece is a wider horizontal overhang on the plywood surface and the second piece of trim. It's all bound together really solid, and all corners are cross-stapled.

--
Josh

johnnyc · Dec 29, 2009

jlandin said:
Not secured, though they fit pretty snug. The duct is easily removable. To do so I just back-off the shank nuts nearly all the way and push the shanks forward (extending them out of the coffin) which allows them to "leave" the duct. Then the duct can be lifted out of the female bases and laid down. All the while the beer lines are sliding out the holes (still attached to the shanks) allowing me to change a line, etc.

--
Josh

Are those 4" shanks? Did you estimate right on the length you needed?

EDIT: Never mind I found the parts list. Just ordered my taps and shanks from Rapids Wholesale. Now to start construction

HBT members inspired me: My Keezer Project

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