Triclamp heater element design

kevink · Feb 24, 2012

ohararp said:
SV_1, just curious but how did you attach the ground cable to the inside of the 2.5" couplers that have been welded together?

I'm not sure how he did his, but here's one way you could do it. This is mine:

thelorax121 · Feb 24, 2012

Nice shot Kevinik, very helpful. What did you use to drill and tap the caps, any problems there?

I'll post up a sketchup model of my first design soon for evaluation, additional scheming...

thelorax121 · Feb 24, 2012

Alrighty, so here is rendition one exploded.

Basically a 2" 45 elbow with one end cap tapped and drilled for 1" NPS (silicon o-ring not pictured), then soldered to the butt weld end of the 1.5" ferrule in front which will connect to the keg. The NPS cap will also have a bolt soldered to it similar to Kevink's design. The opposite end of the elbow has a cap drilled out to to proper OD for a liquid tight cord grip (in this case 1.05"). The elbow will finally be mounted to the keg angled sideways towards the control panel.

I have a tri clamp heat stick that I made previously from a 2" 90 degree elbow with threaded caps, and did not have a problem with the 10 ga wire, so I think this design should leave enough room to work with, but if anyone has any questions, comments of suggestions, please let them fly.

Here is the link to the sketchup file as well if anyone wants to play around with the design. I have modeled a slew of tri clamp components and electrical fittings in all sizes as well, so if you need additional components to work with drop me a line and I will be happy to help.

http://www.mediafire.com/?o6d0o2a6tju1ham

kevink · Feb 24, 2012

thelorax121 said:
Nice shot Kevinik, very helpful. What did you use to drill and tap the caps, any problems there?

I used a lathe to make the hole and thread the end cap. No problems at all. It cut like butter!

clearwaterbrewer · Feb 25, 2012

Kevin - I used the new micromark lathe I got for Christmas to cut the hole to 1.200"(I think) , but 1" NPS tap in stainless cuts a bit much, and requires more torque than the three jaw chuck could do without possibly warping the end cap, so started with a 1" NPT tap, then finished with a 1" NPS

thelorax121 · Feb 25, 2012

Technically couldn't you use just the NPT tap and drill it all the way through? I was under the impression that the diameter of NPS was equal to NPT at it's widest point, aka the end of the taper.

sv_1 · Feb 25, 2012

I welded a stainless socket head cap screw to the cap that holds the element, located so that the wall of the ferrule prevents the nut from backing out.

I need a lathe...

wadefisher · Feb 25, 2012

cmj141 said:
(btw you guys are overly anal with cleaning. Not a bad thing. At my winery we pressure wash our giant tanks with a heated pressure washer and no chemicals. Just hot water over 200 degrees. It'll kill all bacteria, yeast and spores. Never had a bacteria problem.

From previous page.
off topic I know but;
200 degree wash does not kill many things and I'd bet they add chemicals to the wine to prevent further growth of nasties. Read the label on the wine. Also just being higher alcohol content of wine will make it more stable than beer.

kevink · Feb 25, 2012

clearwaterbrewer said:
Kevin - I used the new micromark lathe I got for Christmas to cut the hole to 1.200"(I think) , but 1" NPS tap in stainless cuts a bit much, and requires more torque than the three jaw chuck could do without possibly warping the end cap, so started with a 1" NPT tap, then finished with a 1" NPS

I did mine on a South Bend lathe but did not use a tap. I used the lathe's lead screw to advance a cutter to cut the thread.

thelorax121 · Feb 26, 2012

sv_1 said:
I need a lathe...

If I had a dime (or lathe) for every time I thought this....

Might just have to plunk down the cash an recoup the cost doing local, small scale machining. A bored mind is the devils playground after all

kevink · Feb 26, 2012

You can get a nice South Bend or similar American iron for a few hundred bucks on Craigslist very easily. Look around for a few weeks or months to get an idea of what a good deal is. Get one that has some tooling and start playing around. Prices vary depending on condition, brand, and accessories, but you can get something totally adequate for this type of work $500 give or take a few hundred. If you need your money back you can easily resell for what you bought it for, but you will not want to part with it.

clearwaterbrewer · Feb 26, 2012

thelorax121 said:
Technically couldn't you use just the NPT tap and drill it all the way through? I was under the impression that the diameter of NPS was equal to NPT at it's widest point, aka the end of the taper.

My NPS tap is 0.030" larger at the widest..

kevink said:
You can get a nice South Bend or similar American iron for a few hundred bucks on Craigslist very easily. Look around for a few weeks or months to get an idea of what a good deal is. Get one that has some tooling and start playing around. Prices vary depending on condition, brand, and accessories, but you can get something totally adequate for this type of work $500 give or take a few hundred. If you need your money back you can easily resell for what you bought it for, but you will not want to part with it.

My micromark 7x16 lathe will not go that coarse, I do have a south bend I can get for free from my brother, as he has a larger clausing, but 1000 miles away and no room for it... 2 car garage with blasting cabinet, parts washer, air compressor, stacking washer and dryer, hydraulic press, milling machine, table saw, 8' benches, motorcycle lift, 3 motorcycles, 2 toolboxes hydraulic tubing bender, full-size tig welder, mig welder, gas torches, water heater.. and a big pile of Christmas decorations that I need a place for ;-)

sv_1 · Feb 26, 2012

'Round here they seem to go for $1000+
I'll get off my wallet sooner or later

kevink · Feb 26, 2012

That's true. I didn't notice where you were from! I feel for you, man.

julian81 · May 9, 2012

I posted in another triclamp element thread, but wondering if this one might be more appropriate.

I'm using the triclamp element adapters from brewershardware. Everything is hooked up and you can see my full setup here.

My concern is that the element adapter bodies get quite hot when the liquid is heated. The cylindrical part of the adapter, that is. Is this something to be concerned about? Will prolonged exposure to high temps during a boil affect the wiring or the sheathing around the wiring at all? If so, what do you guys do to mitigate this?

I love these triclamp element adapters, but the heat being transferred into the body of the adapter is concerning.

Thanks!
Julian

bendiy · May 10, 2012

Have you measured the temp?

I think the Tri-clover Silicone Gaskets would be the first to fail, but it could be your cord or the element housing.

clearwaterbrewer · May 10, 2012

I think your equipment will be fine, you should not expect to be touching any part of the boil kettle when wort is over 140 degrees, and the materials used in construction can all handle well over 250 degrees without worry...

julian81 · May 10, 2012

clearwaterbrewer said:
I think your equipment will be fine, you should not expect to be touching any part of the boil kettle when wort is over 140 degrees, and the materials used in construction can all handle well over 250 degrees without worry...

Cool. That's what I wanted to hear

ohararp · May 23, 2012

So based alot on this thread here's the latest design that I have converged to. I basically use 2" triclamp caps and ferrulles to come up with this assembly. I really like that I can break down the entire bit from the keg quickly and easily. The key to making to all happen was to take a single 1" npt stainless couple (I like the machined morebeer ones) and bore to 2" end caps to match the couple. I then tig weld and passivate the new 2 sided 1" coupler. This is the key. I then simply weld up 2-2" TC long ferrules to act as the body. Finally, a 2" end cap is bored to allow for the strain relief and a grounding screw are added.

I included a picture of a diptube I did for my kegs as well. Very similar approach as the heater element.

clearwaterbrewer · May 23, 2012

That design is what I am leaning towards, would like to design it with the clamp closest to the kettle being replaced by draw-screws, and the clamp further away just welded... just looks a little more sano, a little less weight hanging on the keg, and when I or a helper disassemble while cleaning, don't have to worry about opening those..

varocketry · Aug 12, 2013

I purchased the 1.5 " ferrule for my 5500w CAMCO and encountered the same clearance issue.

I then found and now use a 2" ferrule from Hillbillystills :

http://www.hillbillystills.com/Heating_Element_plate_p/hecp.htm

This offers the clearance I prefer and had 2" ferrule TIG'ed to my keg.

BTW, my first CAMCO has a short in the black terminating block.... maybe I torqued it incorrectly during my build. I am looking for the THREADS that discuss great looking enclosure box designs to protect the element/wires.
Any links to recommend anyone?

I saw a great COPPERPORN deisgn some while back that I can't find again.

smoothlarryhughes · Aug 16, 2013

how are you covering the connections when using this? seems easy to install onto the kettle, but the video doesn't show how to cover the connections.

Erbe · Aug 17, 2013

Still Dragon Seems to have a kit that looks right, placing an order tomorrow, pricing seems fair, just waiting on shipping cost and delivery dates.
http://www.stilldragon.com/element-guard-kit-and-adapters.html

BxBrewer · Aug 17, 2013

Brewhardware.com has a kit "and is a vendor". It works really well. You can see my element in the pic.

Triclamp heater element design

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