Need examples of wire/cable runs on brew stand

I am on the last leg of my Stout Tanks 50-amp control panel build (see build thread here - https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/e-herms-build-50-amp-393717/)

I am having a tough time figuring out how to run the two element power cables, two pump power cables, and the three RTD sensor cables from the control panel, along the back side of my brew stand, to the kettles without it looking to ugly and dangly. This will be a mobile stand so I can't just attach the cables to a wall.

I'm also trying to figure out how to run a water line on the back side and up and over the top of the BK and HLT for easy filling. It would be nice to use cheap CPVC and drop the pipes down into the kettles a few inches but then I couldn't use the lids.

Does anyone have any thoughts, pictures, etc.?

Thanks

For the cords, could you tack them to the 2x? that runs just below the table top? Perhaps attach some brackets to support the cords? Something like this could work, but I would likley screw them in so as not having to rely on the adhesive. http://www.uline.com/BL_3352/Cable-Tie-Mounts

For the water line, you could run a rigid pipe vertically to get above the table, then transition it to flexible tubing that you can move to your vessel of choice. You may need some type of clamp to hold the flexible tubing in the vessel when you are filling. Put a receiving fitting at the entry of the vertical pipe, so you can connect the water supply when in use and disconnect it when desired. Also, put a ball valve in there so that when the supply is connected you can easily turn off the water from the stand. You can even mount a filter to the stand if you like.

jeffmeh said:

For the cords, could you tack them to the 2x? that runs just below the table top? Perhaps attach some brackets to support the cords? Something like this could work, but I would likley screw them in so as not having to rely on the adhesive. http://www.uline.com/BL_3352/Cable-Tie-Mounts

For the water line, you could run a rigid pipe vertically to get above the table, then transition it to flexible tubing that you can move to your vessel of choice. You may need some type of clamp to hold the flexible tubing in the vessel when you are filling. Put a receiving fitting at the entry of the vertical pipe, so you can connect the water supply when in use and disconnect it when desired. Also, put a ball valve in there so that when the supply is connected you can easily turn off the water from the stand. You can even mount a filter to the stand if you like.

Click to expand...

Your post helped me remember that I have some zip ties with mounting holes that would work for the cables. I'm going to run in to the hardware store this morning and look at water pipe stuff.

Love the stout tanks man curious how u like them as I am slowly saving up for them and in no hurry with my system finally all set up

Nice work!!

sils13 said:

Love the stout tanks man curious how u like them as I am slowly saving up for them and in no hurry with my system finally all set up

Nice work!!

Click to expand...

See my initial review in post #74 here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/e-herms-build-50-amp-393717/index8.html

For my fill hose, I used a section of silicon hose with a stainless 90* fitting, a valve, and a cam lock. I then just lock my hose into one of the kettle's ports (normally the wort / water return line, the highest fitting) and open the valve - kettle fills, no water spashes, and everything is good. One lesson learned - the silicon hose, even with hose clamps, will not stay on your fittings if you leave the water supply turned on with the valve at the end of the hose closed - too much pressure in the domestic supply. So maybe the valve at the end of the hose isn't worth it, but I like the ability to kill the water at my supply (on the filter which is attached to the brew stand) and then close the valve, to keep any excess from dripping all over the place.

As for wire management - you could get a section of conduit for each length of wire you need, and attach them to the back of your rack, then run the wires through there. Would help support the weight of the larger wires, would keep everything looking clean, would allow for easy wire changes if needed, and you could paint the conduit. Zip ties with the screw-hole mount option would work too though.

Looks great man!

-Kevin

This is how I did mine...I used an extra length of cable so I can move it over the sink when sink is not in use, or it can move all the way over towards kegerator if I'm splashing. All cables are ran under the bench and hidden.