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Bolts Electric Brewery Build

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Subscribed! Exactly the build I am shooting for! Whats a ballpark estimate on the control panel total if you don't mind me asking?

Now that I added it up... :)

If you only include what's in or permanently attached to the control panel I'm at around $950 (not including shipping on some of the parts and leaving room for misc bits). I had guesstimated I'd be around $1000 + another $500 with the probes, elements, cords and various bits to hook up to the kettles.

If you add in the stuff attached to the control panel (cords/plugs, elements, element-to-kettle adapter and RTD probes) then it's up to around $1300. This is assuming you have some Tri-Clamp kettles since the probes are different. A non-TC setup will save some on top of this. Given my original goal of coming in around or under Kal's kit price -- I did alright (and then spent it on the kettles and fittings).

If you then start outfitting tri-clamp kettles and all the fittings, it starts adding up fast.
 
Looks awesome!! The panel is similar to what I am designing. I am fine working with electricity but the thing I am hesitant about are the tool cost for cutting the enclosure. I live in the middle of nowhere KS so I am trying to figure out various option for waterjet cutting. Also not looking forward to drilling out my blichmanns :/
 
newtstampede said:
I am fine working with electricity but the thing I am hesitant about are the tool cost for cutting the enclosure.

One thing you learn when you build-up any "handy" type skill is that there is no replacement for using "the right tool for the job."

I also agonized over buying $70 Greenlee tools of multiple sizes but found some consolation in the fact that they will re-sell in the classifieds section easily. I puled the trigger two nights ago and the Greenlees are on the way.
 
Now that I added it up... :)

If you only include what's in or permanently attached to the control panel I'm at around $950 (not including shipping on some of the parts and leaving room for misc bits). I had guesstimated I'd be around $1000 + another $500 with the probes, elements, cords and various bits to hook up to the kettles.

If you add in the stuff attached to the control panel (cords/plugs, elements, element-to-kettle adapter and RTD probes) then it's up to around $1300. This is assuming you have some Tri-Clamp kettles since the probes are different. A non-TC setup will save some on top of this. Given my original goal of coming in around or under Kal's kit price -- I did alright (and then spent it on the kettles and fittings).

If you then start outfitting tri-clamp kettles and all the fittings, it starts adding up fast.

First off, thanks for the ongoing pics, help, and motivation! Your build is brilliant!

Now,

After individually ordering all your parts from different sites, would you recommend doing the same, or would you recommend ordering the kit from Kal's site ($1420, which include: PIDs, timer, switches, meters, panel tags, handles, heat sink, relays, wire, JB Weld, heat sink grease, and every single screw and nut etc.) I would still have to buy/build the power chord, heating elements, and temp probes separately, in addition to punching and painting the control box...

Now that I actually type the disadvantages to buying from kal's site, I guess I seem better off buying individually :cross:

Thoughts?
 
First off, thanks for the ongoing pics, help, and motivation! Your build is brilliant!

Thanks! The actual build of the panel went pretty fast over a few days -- it was putting the electrical in, finding and ordering parts, getting the panel cut and trips to home depot that stretched it out.

After individually ordering all your parts from different sites, would you recommend doing the same, or would you recommend ordering the kit from Kal's site ($1420, which include: PIDs, timer, switches, meters, panel tags, handles, heat sink, relays, wire, JB Weld, heat sink grease, and every single screw and nut etc.) I would still have to buy/build the power chord, heating elements, and temp probes separately, in addition to punching and painting the control box...

Now that I actually type the disadvantages to buying from kal's site, I guess I seem better off buying individually :cross:

Thoughts?

I think Kal is doing a great thing for us and his prices seem quite reasonable. You also only pay shipping once and you know you'll get the right parts. That said, I think that you're buying a few more parts than you need -- the amp/volt meters are interesting, but not necessary and also add more parts inside the panel to mount. I also prefer the design I came up with that reduces the necessary # of holes by combining indicator lights and switches for the pumps/power. Kal does incorporate a timer (an expensive item) and has the alarm system wired up with individual switches -- something I left out (but plan to add with an Arduino).

So -- if you want to build a Kal clone; I'd buy the kit from him. If he can customize the kit you might give that a try (or we can convince him to make a smaller version).

That said, given the parts list I posted above, this method should be straightforward. Just remember that my version doesn't have timers or alarms wired up. The alarm should be easy to wire -- but a pita to shut off (have to use the PID menus).
 
I love your thread and think your setup is amazing. If you wouldn't mind sharing, how much did this cost you from start to finish. PM me if you arent comfortable putting this out. I am looking to do something similar to you and would like a rough estimate on what it would cost. Thanks
 
bolts said:
I'm also a fan of the heatsink I used. It was wide enough that I didn't need to do anything with the existing hole in the panel. I just put it on the top and left it as-is.

how did you attach the heat sink to the box?
 
how did you attach the heat sink to the box?

I drilled and tapped the holes from the bottom of the heatsink. I also matched the holes up the 4 of the existing holes in the existing hole in the enclosure. Note, that the hole in the enclosure is normally on the bottom, but it works fine on top and I didn't need to patch the hole this way.

I used standard 1/4-20 bolts and didn't worry about punching through the top of the heatsink. Caulk fixes all :)
 
I love your thread and think your setup is amazing. If you wouldn't mind sharing, how much did this cost you from start to finish. PM me if you arent comfortable putting this out. I am looking to do something similar to you and would like a rough estimate on what it would cost. Thanks

Missed this before -- no problem sharing. My best guess puts me into this about $5k. That includes the electrical permits, running lines, sink, kettles, panel, all the stainless bits, etc, etc, etc. I didn't keep great records on the random bits and pieces, just the panel, kettles and stainless.
 
Great Job on the brewery, everything looks top notch :)

I am currently debating the purchase of the 20 gallon stout tank boil kettle. I also brew electric so I wanted to get your feedback on how this system has suited your needs over the last year (especially in regards to whirlpooling, element location and trub cone formation)

The stout tanks (from the cross section online) have a curved bottom for allowing the hop trub and cold / hot break material to whirlpool / settle. How effective is this settling with your electric element installed in the kettle?

Would you be able to attach a pic of your kettle inside?

How high from the bottom of the pot is you element installed?

I see an immersion chiller on the ground next to your kettle, I presume this is how you chill your wort. Have you ever thought of using a counterflow chiller inline with your recirculation pump?

Lastly, I see a triclover strainer / filter on your system. How does this handle pellet hops?
 
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