WooHoo! 50 QT Igloo Ice Cubes at Target

Geekboy · Mar 29, 2008

Yeah, I'm a dope and didn't think this through

. Right after I posted, I went outside to see if my drill could even take a bit that large. That's when the hole saw hit me, or actually my spade bits. I guess I'm a little hyper about brewing my first all grain.

I still need to find some stainless washers. Homey D didn't have them, I'll check Lowes tomorrow.

CyclingCraig · Mar 30, 2008

Here is the Home Depot parts list:

Watts A-388 (Blue Top Bag) 1/2" X 3/4 Nylon Barb to MIP Adapter: $1.36
Watts A-677 (Green and Yellow Top Bag) 3/4"FH x 1/2"FIP Tapped: $3.26
(I think my bag was labeled wrong, should say "1/2 MIP", but part number is correct, see link below for the part details)
O-Rings from Misc Sink parts section (#15 O-Ring): $1.97 pk of 10
Big Fat washer from Nuts and Bolts Asile: $.84
Watts A-815 (Yellow Top Bag) Pip Reducing Cupling 1/2"FIP X 3/8"FIP: $4.37
Watts A-786 (Green Top Bag) Brass Pip Nipple 3/8" MIP x 1-1/2": 2.67
3/8" Ball Value (Brass) (By the copper pipe fittings section): $5.97
Watts (Yellow Top Bag) A-294 Hose Barb Adptr 3/8" Barb x 3/8" MIP: $???

Total cost about $23.00

Install in that order, where the o-ring is the last thing on the inside of the cooler and the Washer is the first thing on the outside of the cooler.

Here is the Part that goes thru the wall of the cooler (It pretty close on the lenght, you will have to push a little to get the reducing coupling on, on the outside of the cooler:

http://www.watts.com/pro/_productsFull.asp?pid=6512&ref=1

I used a "Unibit" to drill the hole:
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd240001

Not sure if I went 13/16" or 7/8", (Pretty confident I went all the way with the bit and used 7/8") but when you pick up the above part, just make sure you get a Drill bit that is slightly larger than the threads of the watts piece, should just barely slip thru the cooler wall.

Hope this helps some of you guys
-Craig

IrregularPulse · Mar 31, 2008

I just picked up my cooler this past weekend. Can't wait to get it put together. Probably do a couple for PM's using it before going all grain, since i still only have a 5 Gallon brew pot.

bigben · Apr 2, 2008

Hey for those that have drilled a hole in this cooler...how thin is the wall where the spigot is. I want to get all stainless valves and stuff, and I am trying to figure out what I need.

If I just use one of these on the INSIDE of the cooler(with an o-ring and maybe a washer), will it reach to thread into a ball valve on the outside?
https://morebeer.com/view_product/17421

SixFoFalcon · Apr 2, 2008

bigben said:
Hey for those that have drilled a hole in this cooler...how thin is the wall where the spigot is. I want to get all stainless valves and stuff, and I am trying to figure out what I need.

If I just use one of these on the INSIDE of the cooler(with an o-ring and maybe a washer), will it reach to thread into a ball valve on the outside?
https://morebeer.com/view_product/17421

SixFoFalcon said:
If you want to drill them for a fitting, be aware that there is no insulation in the indented area--just two plies of plastic. The total thickness is under 1/4" or so, so you will not want a "kewler kit" type fitting designed for a thicker wall.

I'm not sure if the threads on the fitting in that link will be quite long enough when you factor in an o-ring and washer.

Tankard · Apr 2, 2008

are these the same ones?

http://www.target.com/Igloo-Ice-Cub...=UTF8&index=target&rh=k:igloo ice cube&page=1

If so, I may buy one.

McKBrew · Apr 2, 2008

Brew Dude said:
are these the same ones?

http://www.target.com/Igloo-Ice-Cub...=UTF8&index=target&rh=k:igloo ice cube&page=1

If so, I may buy one.

Yes exactly the same.

Easy to drill as well, it's just over 1/4" thick in the side where you'll likely put the spigot.

mZnthebend · Apr 2, 2008

beergears said:
Isn't there a set of pics by Yooper with a self-made foam insulation lid around... typically the neck and airlock are poking through the new lid?

Shoot, for $20 a crack, take the lids off of them, flip one over, and stack them on top of each other...done.

Edit: Doh!! I thought I quoted the whole comment. I mean in regards to fitting a 6 gal carboy and airlock inside for temp control.

Tankard · Apr 2, 2008

Is 50 qt big enough for a 5 gallon batch of AG?

McKBrew · Apr 2, 2008

Brew Dude said:
Is 50 qt big enough for a 5 gallon batch of AG?

50 Qt will easily handle a 5 gallon batch of probably any beer you will ever make. It will work for quite a few ten gallon batches as well.

bigben · Apr 3, 2008

Brew Dude said:
Is 50 qt big enough for a 5 gallon batch of AG?

30 Pounds of grain at 1.25 qt per pound will fit with about 2 quarts to spare

IrregularPulse · Apr 3, 2008

Question about the braided Stainless. Mostly about the hosing that comes inside it. Is that capable of the temperatures seen in a Mashtun or does it need to be replaced. Also is it food safe? Not that I would think it would matter since it's pre-boil. It's just a standard Plumbing steel braided hose.

bigben · Apr 3, 2008

IrregularPulse said:
Question about the braided Stainless. Mostly about the hosing that comes inside it. Is that capable of the temperatures seen in a Mashtun or does it need to be replaced. Also is it food safe? Not that I would think it would matter since it's pre-boil. It's just a standard Plumbing steel braided hose.

It does matter because it can leach chemicals.

I don't know for sure, but I would assume it's NOT food grade. It's for toilets!!!

IrregularPulse · Apr 3, 2008

haha. Didn't think of the leaching chemicals part. I'll nix it and get some other.

CBBaron · Apr 3, 2008

IrregularPulse said:
Question about the braided Stainless. Mostly about the hosing that comes inside it. Is that capable of the temperatures seen in a Mashtun or does it need to be replaced. Also is it food safe? Not that I would think it would matter since it's pre-boil. It's just a standard Plumbing steel braided hose.

The housing inside the braid is not used for a MLT. You cut the ends off the hose, pull the rubber part out and use a hose clamp to attach the braid to a nipple on your bulkhead.

The housing should be food safe as these fittings are used for sinks in addition to toilets and washing machines. But like I said it doesn't matter.

Craig

Anthony_Lopez · Apr 3, 2008

Food safe in a toilet? Who eats in a toilet? I know guys in prison make booze in their toilet... I didnt realize this was that kinda forum!!!:fro:

IrregularPulse · Apr 3, 2008

I've seen guys using tubing with slits cut in it inside the steel braid to keep it from floating up.

BierMuncher · Apr 3, 2008

Two concerns I've read about with the SS braid:

Excessive grain bills soaking wet can weigh enough to "squash" the braid.
The mesh is so fine that if you are aggressive with your crush, stuck sparges are a common occurence.

The copper manifold like post #28 eliminates both of these problems.

There is no need however to sweat the copper joints. Just dry fit them and they will stay put...plus it's easier to clean the apparatus by taking it apart.

FWIW.

Tankard · Apr 3, 2008

How does the Igloo Ice Cube brand coolers compare with the Rubbermaid and Coleman coolers? I was set to buy a Coleman Xtreme cooler at one point because I hear that it retains the heat EXTREMELY well. :mug:

McKBrew · Apr 3, 2008

Brew Dude said:
How does the Igloo Ice Cube brand coolers compare with the Rubbermaid and Coleman coolers? I was set to buy a Coleman Xtreme cooler at one point because I hear that it retains the heat EXTREMELY well.

I saw EvilTOJ's coleman extreme in action last weekend, and honestly if you have the money, I'd recommend it. The insulation on these things is very thick, and it keeps heat like you wouldn't believe. Great option if you brew outdoors on cool day.

IrregularPulse · Apr 3, 2008

good tip, If I have problems with the hose inside braid, I'll probably try a CPVC manifold just fitted together

Tankard · Apr 3, 2008

McKBrew said:
I saw EvilTOJ's coleman extreme in action last weekend, and honestly if you have the money, I'd recommend it. The insulation on these things is very thick, and it keeps heat like you wouldn't believe. Great option if you brew outdoors on cool day.

Yeah, that's what I've been hearing. Still, for $20, I don't know if I can pass up the deal on the Ice Cube.

Anybody have an Ice Cube? How well does it keep the heat when you're mashing?

McKBrew · Apr 3, 2008

The insulation on this cooler is fairly thin. I did a test a few nights ago with it and my 180 degree sparge water lost about 10 degrees in just over an about an hour (to be honest I really didn't pay attention to the time, and it may have been up to 1.5 hours). I didn't pre-heat either, so I think that this cooler will do OK for use as an indoor MLT at room temperature, but that it might need some additional insulation wrapped around it for outside cooler days.

IrregularPulse · Apr 4, 2008

What is some good insulation that can be wrapped that doesn't need to be flame resistant? I've seen the stuff people use on keggels but looks like it'd be overkill for this application. I plan on doing my Mashing Outside.

McKBrew · Apr 4, 2008

I've seen this stuff used quite a bit around the forum, you can pick it up at HD or Lowes.

bigben · Apr 4, 2008

McKBrew said:
The insulation on this cooler is fairly thin. I did a test a few nights ago with it and my 180 degree sparge water lost about 10 degrees in just over an about an hour (to be honest I really didn't pay attention to the time, and it may have been up to 1.5 hours). I didn't pre-heat either, so I think that this cooler will do OK for use as an indoor MLT at room temperature, but that it might need some additional insulation wrapped around it for outside cooler days.

Did you do that 'test' indoors or outdoors. I hope this thing doesn't loose 10 degrees INSIDE at room temp...If so I may take it back before I start drilling it.

IrregularPulse · Apr 4, 2008

McKBrew-yeah, thats the stuff I was talking about but didn't know if there was anything cheaper that would handle this low heat app.

McKBrew · Apr 4, 2008

bigben said:
Did you do that 'test' indoors or outdoors. I hope this thing doesn't loose 10 degrees INSIDE at room temp...If so I may take it back before I start drilling it.

It wasn't a very controlled test. Honestly I think you will be fine, but if you have any concerns you can do a timed temperature test.

Preheat the cooler with 180 degree water for at least 10min then heat water up to your Mash Temp, or a few degrees above and let it set for 60 min. Take a temp reading. I'd also take a measurement at 90min for longer mashes. Keep in mind a grain bed is going to hold temperature better than an empty cooler.

Anthony_Lopez · Apr 4, 2008

McKBrew said:
I've seen this stuff used quite a bit around the forum, you can pick it up at HD or Lowes.

That insulation is GREAT... We use a ton of it at work and I have been able to scrap together some Carboy "Coozies" with it. They have been keeping the fermenting beer at its pitching temperature (70* F) in a 60*F room. It should work well for your MLT insulation....

bigben · Apr 4, 2008

NoClueBrewMaster said:
That insulation is GREAT... We use a ton of it at work and I have been able to scrap together some Carboy "Coozies" with it. They have been keeping the fermenting beer at its pitching temperature (70* F) in a 60*F room. It should work well for your MLT insulation....

Yea, but why use a cooler that needs extra insulation, when you can probably just get a better cooler??

WooHoo! 50 QT Igloo Ice Cubes at Target

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