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New way to control Pellet Hop gunk!

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Holy crap, batman! A torch, really? I have used mine about 6 times and used sweetcell's once or twice and all I have ever done is spray it off at the sink. I have to use the spray versus the stream setting on my sink, though, so that might be one difference. Also, don't wait to clean it. I clean mine as soon as I can after draining the kettle as the sticky wort is a pain once it dries out. I've done several 1/2 lb of hops boils, all 90 minutes, and this thing cleans up like a charm for me. Hope this helps!!
 
sweetcell said:
PBW isn't working? bring in the flame-thrower.

gawd i love this hobby.

Hahaha exactly right! I use mine as a mash filter too, and was putting it in when I first lit the flame for the boil. Lots of hot break and grain sludge too.
 
cadillacandy said:
Hahaha exactly right! I use mine as a mash filter too, and was putting it in when I first lit the flame for the boil. Lots of hot break and grain sludge too.

I'm guessing that's some knarly break material, the hop sludge comes right off. Might want to check your water profile
 
It's not too bad, it just gets caked on I guess after boiling for 60-90 mins, even with immediate cleaning. It probably doesn't sit quite deep enough in my kettle too, so as I get boil off, there's rings of break material that is impossible to get out.
 
cadillacandy said:
It's not too bad, it just gets caked on I guess after boiling for 60-90 mins, even with immediate cleaning. It probably doesn't sit quite deep enough in my kettle too, so as I get boil off, there's rings of break material that is impossible to get out.

So common denominator where I have heard issues cleaning is long boils yet earlier in the thread I document a >90 minute boil (Pliny clone) and I haven't seen the same issue, my filters look close to new and I have used them lots so something else at play here....
 
marcb said:
So common denominator where I have heard issues cleaning is long boils yet earlier in the thread I document a >90 minute boil (Pliny clone) and I haven't seen the same issue, my filters look close to new and I have used them lots so something else at play here....

I was putting mine in before the hot break formed and it started actually boiling. When does yours go in the kettle?
 
Mine is in the kettle the whole time... and only gets pulled after draining into the fermenter.

Ditto...I actually run my mash out through the filter to catch any wayward grains trying to make their way into the boil. Mine does drop down so it is covered except for the 2" or so that eventually boil off.
 
Has anyone mentioned how they're cleaning these? I've gone thru a bunch of the pages, but didn't see anything. Mine has become pretty clogged so I got out the propane torch and did a couple quick passes to burn all the junk out, then soaked it for a day or two in oxyclean to remove the carbon. It's a little discolored now, but liquid flows freely.

Rinse mine out and after a couple of batches I boil mine in oxy free.
 
Ok need some advice from you experts.
I'm ready to make a run of the bigger 1-1/2" Dry Hoppers and I'm wondering what length is going to be a "good for all"?
I've done 16, 16-1/2, 17" & some others.

Thanks.
 
chads454 said:
Ok need some advice from you experts.
I'm ready to make a run of the bigger 1-1/2" Dry Hoppers and I'm wondering what length is going to be a "good for all"?
I've done 16, 16-1/2, 17" & some others.

Thanks.

Whatever it is I want one. :). From what I've read 16.5 looks good
 
chads454 said:
Ok need some advice from you experts.
I'm ready to make a run of the bigger 1-1/2" Dry Hoppers and I'm wondering what length is going to be a "good for all"?
I've done 16, 16-1/2, 17" & some others.

Thanks.

No longer than a pin lock keg height...that will cover just about all keg sizes except 2.5gal ones.
 
Yambor44 said:
Does anyone have the size of this?

Now you guys are just getting lazy on me ; )

A pin lock keg is about 2" shorter than a ball lock keg. So overall height (external) would be close to 23". All kegs have variants though whether the dip tube is in the center or side as well as the depth of the dish bottom. I would recommend getting some measurements to be sure. I've got a buddy that has some pin locks that can take some measurements for us if there isn't anyone out there with ready access to one.....
 
I measured my pin lock at about 20-1/2" at center. I'd say about 20" long would be the max, at least in my pin locks.
 
Thanks for the info.
I made up a few.
Here's the way I'm doing the bottom now.
These are 1-1/2"x16" and 1-1/2"x16-1/2"

0414132151.jpg
 
I am looking to purchase one of these for my keggle. I do not have a false bottom as of now. Looking for recommendations for a 300 or 400 micron mesh.
 
vaheel said:
I am looking to purchase one of these for my keggle. I do not have a false bottom as of now. Looking for recommendations for a 300 or 400 micron mesh.

With my experience for removing hop trub if you are using a plate chiller a 300 is the way to go.
 
you can read through this thread to get opinions, but they seem to be mixed on the 300 vs 400 debate. i think either one will do. personally i slightly lean towards the 400 but it's not a strong preference.
 
I have used both and see little difference between the two meshes, though there is a tiny bit of difference. What I believe may be more important is the diameter, though this is just conjecture on my part at this point. I am going to order either a 6" or 8" one (still trying to decide) to compliment my 4" one. I use the spider/filter for multiple purposes in my setup. I run my mash through it to get out any bits of grain, I use it to keep hops out of my plate chiller and eventually my carboy, and I try to use it during recirculation to catch break and hop materials. When the 4" doesn't clog, this works wonderfully, but it has clogged at least half the time thus the reason I want a larger one. If the larger diameter has an issue (others on here have not had the same issue with as large if not larger doses of hops, so this is why I am leaning this way...) then I will just use two, reserving one for post boil recirculation. Is this overkill? I dunno, but I would really like to keep as much gunk out of my chiller and carboys as I can so it is worth experimenting with. Good luck with whatever you choose...I am sure you find this a great addition to your brew day just like the rest of us!!
 
Does anybody have any experience with a larger basket in a keggle?

I made strainer 11" in diameter (sankey keg as BK, aprox. 15" wide ) and I have boil over problems with it.
Strainer is big enough to enable boil in it, but vigorous boil takes place between strainer and keg wall, and this is where the problem comes:
space between basket and keg is pretty limited so boil can easily pour over keg side, especially at the beginning and with large pre-boil volume.

I will have to reduce diameter, perhaps to 4-6" just to increase boil surface.
 
I just ordered one of the 1.5" x 16.5" dry hoppers from Chad. However, I am going to try using it primarily for filtering my wort from the kettle to my Better Bottle. I use an immersion chiller, so I don't need clear wort out of the kettle. I just want it clear in the fermenter. So, I am going to put this guy in the Better Bottle and drain through it.

Some relevant dimensions. Better Bottle opening is about 1.77" ID, so 1.5" is perfect. From the top of the Better Bottle to the bump on the bottom is about 17.75", which means the dry hopper will sit a little over an inch down from the top so with my fingers or floss I can pull it out. Lastly, from the bump at the bottle of the bottle to the bottom of the neck, it is about 15", so I don't have to worry about the filter falling into the BB and being a pain to fish out or even scratching the bottle.

We'll see how it works. Even if it doesn't work for this purpose, I can still use it to dry hop, but I am hoping it can do double duty.
 
I recently did the same concept with my 6x14. Threw my pellet hops directly into the boil, chilled with IC, hung sanitized 6x14 screen onto edge of interior fermentation bucket, gravity drained from top of screen. Worked perfectly for a very clear wort. Knocked down the aeration I usually get from gravity transferring but fermentation started in less than 16 hours.
 
Glad to hear it worked for you. How hard was it to clean out the strainer afterwards and get it sanitized for future sessions of straining into a fermenter?

I saw a couple people say they had used it as a strainer into a bucket, but since I was using Better Bottles I couldn't find a good option with the standard strainers (closest was funnel with strainer). The dry hopper hopefully will fill that need. If not, the search will continue and may involve a strainer in the kettle and perhaps a screen or false bottom for the kettle to keep out the break. Definitely more complicated and expensive than the dry hopper if it works.
 
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