Fly-Sparge arm VS SABCO tube method

My sparge manifold follows a familiar pattern found on HBT - copper piping with holes in it which distributes water across the top of the grain bed.
I did it like this because thats what seems most popular.
However, the $5000+ SABCO system uses a silicone tube which sits on top of the grain bed. Im starting to think that the slotted manifold is over-engineered.
Has anyone changed from a manifold to a tube (or vice versa) and can report on their performance ? What are your thoughts on this ?

Tube worked just fine on my first sparge.
Just keep about an inch of sparge water above the lauter. And you can let the level drop to the top of the grain bed while you are adjusting your flow rates.

https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=41257&cat=all&ppuser=45382

When you fly sparge you usually maintain 1 to 2 inches of sparge water above the grain bed. Think about it, if there is a 1 to 2 inch puddle of sparge water on top of the grain bed what is the manifold doing to help things? The obvious answer is nothing. The silicone tubing simply floats on top of the 1 to 2 inches of sparge water above the grain bed delivering more sparge water to maintain 1 to 2 inches.

Actually silicone tubing sinks in wort, you can attach a float at the tube end if you like, but I see no need for that, just lay it in and you'll be golden.

The Sabco method is to maintain 1 to 2 Inches water above the grain bed at all times. My efficiencies went up from 75% avg to the high 85% avg when I switched over to a BM from a similar system with a sparge manifold.

Hex said:

Actually silicone tubing sinks in wort, you can attach a float at the tube end if you like, but I see no need for that, just lay it in and you'll be golden.

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Mine floats.....I have no idea why??????????

Sawdustguy said:

Mine floats.....I have no idea why??????????

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Strange. And I thought I had hard water.

Not hard water, heavy beer!

IMO, it doesn't make any difference how you deliver the water to the mash tun, but slow and gently works best while maintaining an inch or two of water above the grain. I agree that the elaborate manifolds seem to be over-engineered and unnecessary.

I used to use a rotating sparge arm, but switched to a tube on my brutus type system. I actually use the blichman autosparge, although the auto part has never worked. But, my efficiency has stayed the same or gone up a little.

I use pie tins-- 2 of them. One is flat and sets directly above the grain bed. The other I have in a bowl shape. I have holes punched in both. This allows me to add water to the top while not disturbing the grain bed at all. And you want to spend 5 grand on what?

I was bored at lunch one day, (carpenter) and made a drip ring with pex and 3 brass T's. 9" in diam. it sits on some wire hangers over the mlt. It's got dozens of 1/32" holes at all angles so it makes a good spray. Though I'll admit it can be challenging to get the flow as slow as I want (1 qt. per minute), I do usually get it down.

cockybitz said:

I use pie tins-- 2 of them. One is flat and sets directly above the grain bed. The other I have in a bowl shape. I have holes punched in both. This allows me to add water to the top while not disturbing the grain bed at all. And you want to spend 5 grand on what?

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How does your contraption prevent the grain bed from being disturned when there is 1 to 2 inches of water over top of it? That makes no sense. It may make sense if the grain bed is exposed but not if there is a couple inches of water over top of it.

Northcalais40 said:

I was bored at lunch one day, (carpenter) and made a drip ring with pex and 3 brass T's. 9" in diam. it sits on some wire hangers over the mlt. It's got dozens of 1/32" holes at all angles so it makes a good spray. Though I'll admit it can be challenging to get the flow as slow as I want (1 qt. per minute), I do usually get it down.

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What does what you made do for you that a piece of tubing does not?

Sawdustguy said:

How does your contraption prevent the grain bed from being disturned when there is 1 to 2 inches of water over top of it? That makes no sense. It may make sense if the grain bed is exposed but not if there is a couple inches of water over top of it.

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then I suppose I have some confusion myself. I had previously used a naked grain bed and as gently as possible, I was still disturbing the grain. Not to mention how tedious it was to "gently" add the water. Using the pie tins I was able to pile a couple of inches and allow it to drain as I accomplish other things.

There is also some question whether lauter temperatures are important. It all depends on how you mash.

Interesting read:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/cold-water-sparge-110856/

Sawdustguy said:

What does what you made do for you that a piece of tubing does not?

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Maybe nothing, who can say? If it's about minimalism go no-sparge. It makes an awesome tinkling sound, though, so it's not totally worthless.

Interesting and funny at the same time when you consider all of those (myself included) who have designed and built elaborate sparge manifolds.
I brewed with the new system on Saturday for the first time and got 80% efficiency which is the same as I got with the sparge manifold.
My silicone tube also didn't float but didn't seem to disturb the grain bed at all.

cockybitz said:

I use pie tins-- 2 of them. One is flat and sets directly above the grain bed. The other I have in a bowl shape. I have holes punched in both. This allows me to add water to the top while not disturbing the grain bed at all. And you want to spend 5 grand on what?

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whats your average efficiency with this technique?

Any details on what kind of materials or preexisting hardware can be used as a float for the silicone tubing? Sounds like a better idea to disperse water in the 1-2" puddle above the grain bed.

If you haven't tried just laying the tubing on top of the lauter, I suggest you try it. My silicon tube rests on top of the grain bed as seen in this photo. It was taken after I vorlaufed a couple times, and let the first wort drain a bit to set the bed. After this photo, I let in a couple inches sparge water, and maintain the higher level (not pictured) throughout the sparge. From that point on, the liquid on top is clear like water except for a few hulls floating on the surface. I'm over 80% on all my brews with this method.

tnbrewer371 said:

whats your average efficiency with this technique?

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85-90%. Mind you this is in a 5 gallon cooler.