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Brewhemoth conicals?

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Two great options are:

http://conical-fermenter.com/products/spares/
1" Sanitary ball valve

and

http://www.stpats.com/sanitaryfittings.htm
ULTRA Sanitary Butterfly Valve

I have the second one and like it much. The body is held together with a tri-clamp in stead of 4 bolts. I like this because I do disassemble the valve after every brew and with it I don't have to use any tools, well .. except an allan wrench to take the handle off, but not 4 bolts as well.. Limiting the need for tools is a major part of convenience for me.
 
Does the butterfly restrict flow on the dump? That's my only concern with those.
 
No.

But, I mean... if you have chunks of gunk that are approaching 1" diameter in the fermenter, then??

Any of these would be great. At this size it's just a matter of which style you like better.
 
Awesome, thanks. Price will probably be a deciding factor as it took several months and some bday money to save up enough for the fermenter alone. I don't want to get it and then have to wait another month to use it because I couldn't get the valves.
 
I'm about to purchase a Brewhemoth and the only thing holding me back is how I'm going to clean it. I was wondering if anyone had tried the Original Sanke Keg and Large Carboy Cleaner? It seams like it would work and I would not have to use 20 gallons of Oxy. Then I could spray it down with sanitizer using a spray ball. I don't really want to do a complete CIP. Any thoughts from the Brewhemoth owners?
 
Just wanted let folks now that Moorebeers Racking Arm fits well in the Brewhemoth.

For some reason you can't find it on their website. But google finds it...and you can order it.

https://morebeer.com/view_product/10826

BTW Just received my brewhemoth and I think I am going to love it.

Fits great in my freezer.

I would like to know more about your racking/sampling connection. What is stopping a bug from going into the sampling arm? When racking wouldn't be less messy to have a valve on the end of the racking arm.
 
I'm about to purchase a Brewhemoth and the only thing holding me back is how I'm going to clean it. I was wondering if anyone had tried the Original Sanke Keg and Large Carboy Cleaner? It seams like it would work and I would not have to use 20 gallons of Oxy. Then I could spray it down with sanitizer using a spray ball. I don't really want to do a complete CIP. Any thoughts from the Brewhemoth owners?

If someone wants to ship me a Brewhemoth, I would happy try to clean it with my Original Sanke Keg & Large Carboy Cleaner(TM). Might need a longer rod on it. I've always found the Carboy Cleaner guys good to work with, they might even build something for ya. [email protected]
 
Kally, I must copy your great CIP design the results sure look great thanks for posting.
Do you know the operating range of your spray ball in GPM or operating pressure range?

I thought I put the spray ball part number on one of the forum sites..? stlbrews.org or garagebrewers.com
It was from GW kent, their standard 1" or 1.5" spray ball.
 
brew to keg.

brewtokeg.jpg
 
Nice! Mine should mail out any day now. They've had a few backups, but I havn't gotten my valves yet so that's ok.
 
Can anyone give me th outside dimentions of the brewhemoth including stand? I want to make sure I get the right size fridge to put it in. Thanks in advance!
 
The site lists it as 50" tall and 16" diameter, but I'll measure mine when I get home, it seems taller.
 
Mine stands closer to 51" and from side handle to side handle is 19" across. pretty close. I'm thinking about getting some locking castors for mine so I can roll it around full without too much trouble.
 
They can be ordered with adjustable legs, which will become standard as our old stock runs out, so the height can be lowered.
I would not advise casters, filled it is heavy, and we make no garentees with after market changes.
 
Are there any concerns with the weight when putting the fermenter in the fridge? Those of you who put thier Brewhemoth in the fridge do you add some sort of plate to the bottom of the fridge so the legs don't bust through the bottom?
 
Good to know, the castors were only a thought. I just ordered my valves and such this morning, so with any luck I can put a brew in it next weekend!
 
Good to know, the castors were only a thought. I just ordered my valves and such this morning, so with any luck I can put a brew in it next weekend!

What's wrong with making a piano moving style frame with humps for the casters, keeping the ferm legs down low to the ground plus secured to the frame at each leg?
No single leg pulled or strained, able to roll around plus the same height as original after removing the levelers installing a bolt thru the castered frame upwards.
 
I will probably confine it to a fridge when I get a house. The casters were just a thought for rolling it around the apt when guests visit and I'm forced to hide my beauty. There are a number of things I could do to reinforce the legs (weld x frame supports in, etc) but I don't wanna put too much strain on the bolts and break it outta the gate, so I'll just let it be (for now)
 
Are there any concerns with the weight when putting the fermenter in the fridge? Those of you who put thier Brewhemoth in the fridge do you add some sort of plate to the bottom of the fridge so the legs don't bust through the bottom?

Mine is in an upright freezer and has been for the past few months... don't have anything on the floor of the freezer and haven't had any problems thus far.
 
What's wrong with making a piano moving style frame with humps for the casters, keeping the ferm legs down low to the ground plus secured to the frame at each leg?
No single leg pulled or strained, able to roll around plus the same height as original after removing the levelers installing a bolt thru the castered frame upwards.

I agree. The nuts holding the original levelers aren't much better than tack welded on, so I can see why Dale would recommend against casters with the legs as is. But a bolt on triangular dolly should work just fine and is what I'll be doing.
 
I agree. The nuts holding the original levelers aren't much better than tack welded on, so I can see why Dale would recommend against casters with the legs as is. But a bolt on triangular dolly should work just fine and is what I'll be doing.

Which version do you have with how were the legs attached?

I call the first ferms as series one having SS angle welded in three locations up the side of the ferm body starting at the cone to body transition on up two more welds. This as six welds each angle SS leg.
Series two legs welded at one location only at the cone to body transition.
I fear this will flex and fail if not treated carefully.
Series three looks like studs welded up or spot welded to the body sides with square tube and acorn nuts.
Series three should you yank the legs a bunch I bet the welded (spot?) studs will eventually fatigue the body metal and cause a crack, tear and a failure just my thinking.
Faster with less labor for increased production how I see it.
Bottom line the strongest leg ferms look to be JMO the "Series" one having six welds at each SS angle material leg. I also have a series one Brewhemoth.
I bet your not too far away from Muroc Dry lake as well El Mirage Dry lake with the LSR runs which begin June 12th?
 
I have a series 3 brewhemoth. The studs are tig welded on and seem pretty solid, but the legs are just mild steel C-channel with a nut welded on the bottom. I'm not confident in the strength of the nuts on the bottom, especially if you wanted to screw in a caster.

I'm in the low desert, but still a couple hours away from the dry lakes. Haven't gone to the LSR trials yet, but its on my list.
 
Damn bro you got to go to speed week at Bonneville, motorhome the best way.
It's in the family blood dad in the 40's, myself and my son all gearheads and racers.

Now the series thing name I made up typing earlier, I may have tagged a wrong version vs Dale or Josh would call them.
I have plans for my ferm to be modified to my liking and features.
 

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