You are the pro, tell me what to buy!
- Thread starter the75
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the75
Well-Known Member
OK, here is my shopping list (please let me know if I am buying something I don't need or forgetting something that I should have):
Primary fermentor bucket
Secondary fermentor carboy bottle
sanitizer
hydrometer
autosiphon
siphon hose
liquid crystal thermometer
carboy brush (if I get glass carboy)
Rubber stopper
airlock
bottling bucket with spigot
bottle filler
bottle capper
caps
extract kit
thermometer
wort chiller
funnel with strainer
blow off hose for carboy
thief
yeast starter
jet bottle washer
carboy dryer
one step sanitizer
Tell me how the list looks, please.
Primary fermentor bucket
Secondary fermentor carboy bottle
sanitizer
hydrometer
autosiphon
siphon hose
liquid crystal thermometer
carboy brush (if I get glass carboy)
Rubber stopper
airlock
bottling bucket with spigot
bottle filler
bottle capper
caps
extract kit
thermometer
wort chiller
funnel with strainer
blow off hose for carboy
thief
yeast starter
jet bottle washer
carboy dryer
one step sanitizer
Tell me how the list looks, please.
Good start.
For sanitizing; get star san instead of 1-step.
For cleaning; pickup oxyclean and TSP (hardware store, paint department).
If you mix these 60/40 it will clean anything.
I would still add a immersion cooler, bottle tree, and bottle rinser/sanitizer.
But you can wait on these if you like.
And pick up "How to Brew" and read it cover to cover.
(or read if for free http://www.howtobrew.com/sitemap.html)
For sanitizing; get star san instead of 1-step.
For cleaning; pickup oxyclean and TSP (hardware store, paint department).
If you mix these 60/40 it will clean anything.
I would still add a immersion cooler, bottle tree, and bottle rinser/sanitizer.
But you can wait on these if you like.
And pick up "How to Brew" and read it cover to cover.
(or read if for free http://www.howtobrew.com/sitemap.html)
You could also skip the secondary.
sudsmcgee
Well-Known Member
Agreed. Buy two primaries and skip the secondary. You will rarely need it and as a beginner it's not necessary at all.
Before you ever fire up the burner, read John Palmer's "How to Brew" and/or Charlie Papazian's "The Complete Joy of Homebrewing", maybe twice. They will teach you the principles of the brewing process and you'll know why you're doing what you're doing.
DrummerBoySeth
Well-Known Member
John Palmer's book may be the MOST IMPORTANT brewing tool I have at my disposal. It seems like I refer to it for something nearly every time I brew. A good reference book is probably more important than any carboy, fermenter, airlock, or autosiphon.
firebirdude
Well-Known Member
Wow. A lot of responses. I'm not reading them all, so pardon if I repeat something said.
I guess I just want to add that it doesn't take much to brew good beer. For example, you don't need a secondary....at all. Also, TONS of people on here ferment in food grade buckets with an airlock. Exact same results as the more expensive carboys. (This isn't the time or place to argue the minuscule differences, my statement is true for 99% of brews) I guess I'm just saying don't go over board and buy the most expensive "kit" available. It will likely contain things you won't need.
Must haves:
A large stockpot. Future proof yourself here and get something in the ~8 gallon size or larger.
A way to boil that much water. Turkey fryer for most people. I'm able to do it on a gas stove, but it takes awhile.
Fermenting vessel.
Hydrometer. But I would opt for a refractometer right out of the gate. More accurate. Far smaller sample is needed. Cost is only ~$25 shipped off eBay. No reason not to get it.
Bottling bucket with bottling wand.
Bottles and caps. Plastic. Glass. It's your call.
Starsan and a spray bottle.
just about it.....
And the kits posted at the HomeBrewMart that you linked to look overpriced.
I guess I just want to add that it doesn't take much to brew good beer. For example, you don't need a secondary....at all. Also, TONS of people on here ferment in food grade buckets with an airlock. Exact same results as the more expensive carboys. (This isn't the time or place to argue the minuscule differences, my statement is true for 99% of brews) I guess I'm just saying don't go over board and buy the most expensive "kit" available. It will likely contain things you won't need.
Must haves:
A large stockpot. Future proof yourself here and get something in the ~8 gallon size or larger.
A way to boil that much water. Turkey fryer for most people. I'm able to do it on a gas stove, but it takes awhile.
Fermenting vessel.
Hydrometer. But I would opt for a refractometer right out of the gate. More accurate. Far smaller sample is needed. Cost is only ~$25 shipped off eBay. No reason not to get it.
Bottling bucket with bottling wand.
Bottles and caps. Plastic. Glass. It's your call.
Starsan and a spray bottle.
just about it.....
And the kits posted at the HomeBrewMart that you linked to look overpriced.
I disagree with the refractometer statement. More $$ and doesn't accurately measure fg. Refractometers only measure the bending of light. Which from what I have read is good when you only have a few main components in your solution, such as sugar and water. But not very good when you add alcohol. They do well at looking for changes in gravity, hence stopped or stuck fermentation, but not a final gravity. This is only what I have read from some of the format that discuss this. Can anyone prove or disprove this from experience, or facts. Please add in.
amandabab
Well-Known Member
Can't prove it but I noticed the same.
Great for checking big changes quick. mine started sitting more than being used and I traded it for a wide scale bottling hydrometer.
Now that being said, the new owner loves it and claims its a must have tool.
The refractometer is a great tool for AG brewers and wine makers but not so much for an extract brewer. It is used to get a quick idea on how well your mash is working and how much sugar is in the fruit you are using for wine.
It isn't very useful once fermentation starts. It cannot give you the FG because the alcohol will mess up the reading. It can give you an idea of what is happening but the numbers cannot be trusted. A $8 hydrometer is like the honey badger, it don't care.
It isn't very useful once fermentation starts. It cannot give you the FG because the alcohol will mess up the reading. It can give you an idea of what is happening but the numbers cannot be trusted. A $8 hydrometer is like the honey badger, it don't care.
Now this may be a little off topic, and deserve a new thread. Maybe someone has a quick answer to this side question.
How do you cool down your hodrometer samples to measure preboil gravity. I generally get it down to say 110F quickly and take a reading and use a chart to compensate, but this is always off. I've tried setting the sample in the freezer, and in an ice bath in a milk jug. Which happens to be just the right height and diameter opening. But still these methods are slow and makes it hard to account for in your boil after its half over. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
How do you cool down your hodrometer samples to measure preboil gravity. I generally get it down to say 110F quickly and take a reading and use a chart to compensate, but this is always off. I've tried setting the sample in the freezer, and in an ice bath in a milk jug. Which happens to be just the right height and diameter opening. But still these methods are slow and makes it hard to account for in your boil after its half over. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
The most important tool for making great beer is priceless...PATIENCE
Being eager now is great, but be ready to let those beers ride for weeks/months before you drink them
I just saw this; what is it and where can I get one?
Can you read it from a beer bottle or am I reading it wrong.
I need to break the one I have and get a better one; if anyone has any suggestions let me know. I just have the common triple scale one that is sold everywhere; it isn't that easy for me to read.
amandabab
Well-Known Member
any wine shop should carry them, I think Williamsbrewing.com has them.
its a taller scale, more space between the graduations and a thinner stem for less meniscus.
couldn't use them in a bottle, some have a bigger bulb to make up for the taller stem.
the75
Well-Known Member
Well, thanks to this forum and all of your responses, I have tempered my eager drive. Not to mention, my wife just blew through some of our cash (botox is a *****). That's fine though, gives me plenty of time for reading up! These are all great bits of information, I especially dig the notion of reading up to understand what I'm doing instead of just doing what I'm told. THAT'S WHAT I WANT, TO UNDERSTAND! Thanks again!
the75
Well-Known Member
Thank you sir! I just ordered my kit! Great prices!
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