Yeasts

[daengineer]

I am compiling a list of yeast I would like to test with different types of meads to experiment with. I am just curious what everyone else's favorite yeasts are and what purpose you use them for.. so far the only one I have used is d47 but the ones I having for testing is.

Coates De Blanc
Wyeast 1388
Belle Saison
M27
NottingHam
T-58
K1-V1116

For my testing I am going to do one gallon side by sides with the only variable different is the yeast.

I purchased about 4 of these https://www.thebeerbug.com/

So I can real time monitor level's of gravity and temperature.

Let me know any input you have.. still compiling all testing variables and how I want to test. Thanks!

 

[WVMJ]

When you say different types of mead what do you mean? For high gravity you might want to include some EC1118 and Permier Cuvee. I am having a heck of a time clearing some of the beer yeasts like Notti, they just dont seem to want to settle out like most of the wine yeast do. WVMJ

 

[Arpolis]

If you want a yeast that settles out quick and leaves a crystal clear mead then try Wyeast's London esb 1968. I flocculates super well, it leaves good body and fruity esters. It is rated at 9% abv limit but if you stir it often through fermentation and feed it well it can get up into the 11% - 12% mead range.

 

[Frognostic]

I have only brewed meads with honey and water so far, with the exception of raisins in primary for nutrients.

Lalvin ICV-D47 wine yeast: honeys I used included raw Sunflower honey and raw buckwheat honey. Fierce fumes from the Buckwheat after a year. They are all bulk aging. I left them on the lees a long time, like near on a year, so this might cause problems.

Lalvin 71b-1122 "Narbonne": used generic honeys with this one, including raw wildflower honey with honeydew, raw honey from the Baltic and Rowse set honey. I have heard not to leave mead on 71b -1122 lees too long. I did. The Baltic mead, still showing signs of fermentation, has been sitting on its lees for about three months. I'll have to see if problems ensue.

Lallemand Nottingham Ale Yeast: served two gallons of raw honey mead, step fed in a way with one half of the honey added on the first day and the other half a week on. Started on 30th January and still bubbling away on the 29th April, with little to no sign of clearing / still lots of suspended yeast.

Vigo Cider Yeast: used this for a raw wildflower mead, started on 15th February 2015. Cleared within the month, sat on a thin bed of compact lees, although there are still some minor signs of fermentation.

Lalvin K1V-1116 "Montpellier": used this for a generic honey mead, either blossom or wildflower, and it seems to be doing well. Started sometime in March and, as of late April 2015, is clearing although still a little hazy. Airlock activity has slowed down a lot over the last week or two.

 

[daengineer]

When you say different types of mead what do you mean? For high gravity you might want to include some EC1118 and Permier Cuvee. I am having a heck of a time clearing some of the beer yeasts like Notti, they just dont seem to want to settle out like most of the wine yeast do. WVMJ

I just want to run each one through its paces side by side and see how it performs. And compile a list of everything such as. speed of fermentation, ph levels, flavor profile related to that yeast, aroma created from the yeast and etc.


I would begin with a traditional mead and run it through common honey types. Such as orange blossom, clover, fireweed, wildflower. and do different amounts such high OGs and low OGS

Then move the other kinds and types and do the same thing.


With the information I extrapolate from experimenting I plan on building a database for myself on what yeast got the best results this database will be point based system along with a break down. of the time it took at what temperature amount of honey and etc. And all variables will be listed.

 

[WVMJ]

If you are going to compare yeasts one mistake I see a lot in multiple yeast trial threads is treating each yeast like they have all the same requirements. If you have a yeast that needs more nitrogen then another is it a good test to not give the hungry one more nitrogen when it needs it and then say it failed? One might need to be warmer than the others, or not do well when left on its lees to long even though it gave a perfect fermentation. WVMJ

 

[hottpeper13]

I have yet to use a wine or mead yeast for mine. The Wyeast Belgian high gravity and Yeast Bays Belgian dry profiles work well with the fruits I use. My next one is clover honey (no fruit) using WLP 410 wit yeast. FYI the Belgian dry gave me a 16% mead,at 6mos it tastes like raspberry cough syrup. In July it's 1 yr old and we'll taste,might take 2-3 yrs.

 

[daengineer]

If you are going to compare yeasts one mistake I see a lot in multiple yeast trial threads is treating each yeast like they have all the same requirements. If you have a yeast that needs more nitrogen then another is it a good test to not give the hungry one more nitrogen when it needs it and then say it failed? One might need to be warmer than the others, or not do well when left on its lees to long even though it gave a perfect fermentation. WVMJ

I was thinking the same thing today at work it would be an unfair trial to not use the yeast at their optimum operating conditions.

Which there will be a point scale I am working on to factor against other yeast is manageability such as how far off from room temperature (avg 70 degrees) or how much nutrients does it need less = better in my book. Duration rather then being a rating will be just broken up into groups.. Because I see duration not really has a negative they just serve their purpose in that manner.

I was wondering as well if anyone measures PPM of their yeast during fermentation obviously you would have to measure your must PPM and your starting yeast PPM before you mix so you could subtract your must PPM.

 

[daengineer]

I have yet to use a wine or mead yeast for mine. The Wyeast Belgian high gravity and Yeast Bays Belgian dry profiles work well with the fruits I use. My next one is clover honey (no fruit) using WLP 410 wit yeast. FYI the Belgian dry gave me a 16% mead,at 6mos it tastes like raspberry cough syrup. In July it's 1 yr old and we'll taste,might take 2-3 yrs.

Thats unfortunate D:

 

[daengineer]

I have only brewed meads with honey and water so far, with the exception of raisins in primary for nutrients.

Lalvin ICV-D47 wine yeast: honeys I used included raw Sunflower honey and raw buckwheat honey. Fierce fumes from the Buckwheat after a year. They are all bulk aging. I left them on the lees a long time, like near on a year, so this might cause problems.

Lalvin 71b-1122 "Narbonne": used generic honeys with this one, including raw wildflower honey with honeydew, raw honey from the Baltic and Rowse set honey. I have heard not to leave mead on 71b -1122 lees too long. I did. The Baltic mead, still showing signs of fermentation, has been sitting on its lees for about three months. I'll have to see if problems ensue.

Lallemand Nottingham Ale Yeast: served two gallons of raw honey mead, step fed in a way with one half of the honey added on the first day and the other half a week on. Started on 30th January and still bubbling away on the 29th April, with little to no sign of clearing / still lots of suspended yeast.

Vigo Cider Yeast: used this for a raw wildflower mead, started on 15th February 2015. Cleared within the month, sat on a thin bed of compact lees, although there are still some minor signs of fermentation.

Lalvin K1V-1116 "Montpellier": used this for a generic honey mead, either blossom or wildflower, and it seems to be doing well. Started sometime in March and, as of late April 2015, is clearing although still a little hazy. Airlock activity has slowed down a lot over the last week or two.

Thanks for the input! I'll have to add those to my list to try out

 

[MarshmallowBlue]

I used to use Cotes Des Blancs, but have gotten cleaner ferments form Red Star's Montrachet and Pastuer Red yeasts

 

[Carrick]

I use Vinters Harvest SN9 and was impressed with the result on the batches I have done so far. I have not experimented with other types yet as i am relatively new to brewing. Has anyone else tries this yeast?

 

[henryakirk]

Im quite interested in an ale yeast that is happy in the 75-80 range. It hard to maintain lower temps in South Texas without an extra fridge and I only have the one my family's groceries live in.

 

[daengineer]

Im quite interested in an ale yeast that is happy in the 75-80 range. It hard to maintain lower temps in South Texas without an extra fridge and I only have the one my family's groceries live in.

I'd be happy to look into this prospect as well since Living in Alaska we don't have A/C so during the summer months it gets pretty dang hot in my third floor apartment.

 

[OHVolsfan23]

We use different yeasts for different types of Mead. We use Lalvin 71B for all our cherry and blueberry meads. It really brings out the flavor of the fruit. We use Lalvin D47 for Cysers and other Melomels. I used Lalvin Nottingham Ale Yeast for my first Braggot. (He's right, that stuff really doesn't easily clear). We started out using Lalvin EC-118 but it always seemed to turn our Mead into rocket fuel. We like a sweeter Mead and it just ate up too much sugar.