Would this work as a fermenter?

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pompeiisneaks

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I've seen something once before that someone did w/ a plastic conical, and I saw a thread about using plastic square fermenters, I clicked the link and then did a search for conical... Got this as one, for 15 gal fermenter:

Inductor Cone Bottom Bulk Storage Tanks - US Plastic Corporation

79 bucks! not bad! and the stand taht comes w/ it is here:

Inductor Cone Bottom Bulk Storage Tanks - US Plastic Corporation

at 81 bucks... not sure what shipping would be, but most likely less than the 500$ stainless ones that weigh tons more I'm sure...

I guess you'd have to do some tinkering to make it just right, adding some kind of drain valve part way up, and then a bottom drain valve as well, but for 15 gallons of fermenter, that seems much cheaper! no?
 
Good find. Semi-transparent, but also with UV inhibitors? Sounds good to me. Now the only question is about the plastic. Might be worth shooting the manufacturers an email.
 
dam, the stand is $81. i'll make a stand. shipping $17 to me for 1

plus if you buy more than one you get it cheaper.
 
but after looking at the complete price with shipping and such i might go with tank depot


now to get my all grain equip together so i can do some 10 gallon batches
 
I replied about the use of these Inductor Cone Bottom Bulk Storage Tanks from the United States Plastic Corp. a couple or more weeks ago. They have a maximum temperature of 140*F and meets FDA standards. My old catalog is a 2007 edition volume 4, the 15 gallon tank stock # 8551 lists at $68.97. Stand stock # 8552 lists at $67.1. They have changed the part numbers as well the prices over the last 21 months. I as others would use this tank without any fears and as mentioned build my own stand saving some more money. A couple of 1 1/4" x 1/4" flat stock hoops bent around a smaller diameter cylinder object allowing for perfectly round hoops and spring back with angle or better yet channel iron legs welded together to the height you want allowing clearance for the bottom dump valve. The channel iron you can "V" notch, bend and weld following the tanks sides. Weld flat plate to the bottom for the casters to bolt to as well triangle bracing the legs together a couple inches above the caster plates for leg strength. The exact location for the racking arm I would take measurements off a manufactured SS or plastic fermenter of the same volume fermenter and diameter at your LHBS unless another member chimes in on these manufactured locations even if this is off a Blichmann fermenter plus get the length of the arm internally after the 90 degree bend. Add slit clear large diameter vinyl tubing or rubber hose as a edge protector for the cone section centering and bearing all the weight to protect the Inductor Cone. The band around the straight body of the Inductor make it 3/8" larger in diameter for easy removal plus any tank growth or swelling while it is full. Add your vent lock, temp probe holes into the screw in lid. I would use 1/4" SS tubing that is long enough to reach down to sample the temperature were the tapered sides begin in the fermenter deep inside to get a real internal reading hence the long SS tube with a glass-encapsulated sensor like bull8042 posted on this forum as a build project. Under the DIY sectionback in 2-9-2009 when I made copies. Thanks bull8042 for sharing your knowledge to others. A sensor accurate to 1*F that works with the BCS-460 unit or it can be hooked up to a high quality digital meter just add a clean power supply. Paint frame and enjoy. The saved hundreds of dollars can go towards more fermentors or other needed brewing items. As I do not have a fat wallet besides it's totally against my way of thinking to throw cash around freely. JMO's here, enjoy.
 
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