Wood fired brewstand

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Seabee John

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The wife and I just recently purchased 40 acres nestled just inside the Superior National Forest. Utilities are nonexistent. Wood, on the other hand is in plentiful supply. I typically only brew for major events or while on home vacations... so developing a controllable wood fired brew setup is on the docket.

Take a look at what I'm planning and let me know your thoughts. I want to know if I'm on the right path or not. Suggestions for improvement would be great!

-j

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1484327636.233735.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1484327661.821119.jpg
 
Have you thought about a rocket stove. They are simple to build, use very little wood and are capable of producing a lot of heat.
https://fastgrowtheweeds.com/2010/07/05/on-rocket-stoves/
One thing to remember is that you will get a lot of carbon built up on any part that comes in contact with the hot smoke. I have heard that rubbing the bottom with soap will mitigate the problem.
 
Yeah, I've been looking at rocket stoves for a option... I think it's a matter of scale. As far as carbon build up, I'm not really worried... I'm just looking for the most efficiency for the cheapest price.
 
Thanks! Yeah, I'm researching what the best options are for this... I could install a door below for ash removal... I'm also considering a forced air intake using a 12v duct fan and a marine battery... most if not all of the power on the land will be wind/solar.
 
I love the idea of brewing over an open fire. If it was me, I think I would use a caldren (copper?) on on a tripod with a pulley. You could control temp by moving your caldren up and down and the tripod could double as a BIAB hoist for awesome single vessel brewing al fresco.
 
I would be concerned with too much copper leaching into the wort boiling on copper. It's one thing to use copper to cool, but I wouldn't want to apply direct heat to it. I know that stills are often made from copper, but most of the distilleries are getting away from copper for that reason.
 
Have you thought about making a wood fired boiler? You could use the steam coming off the boiler for a LOT more than just brewing I would think.
 
love it, but I'm a charcoal (WSM, Akorn) and pellet (Fast Eddy) guy and don't envy the stick burners trying to control the heat. On my pellet smoker, I punch some numbers into the control box and go to sleep. The rhythm of the pellets tumbling down the ramp is like a lullaby.
 
I have a few concerns.

First I think there is there a potential for the wort to take on a smoked flavor. Will the boil kettle and the fire drum be welded together or sealed? If the smoke is leaking up around the kettle, I think you will have issues with unwanted smoke flavors. I don't think it will be an issue when the wort is boiling because the steam should protect the wort. Cooling and pre-boil are potential smoke contamination times.

Which leads me into the next concern, how do you plan on cooling the wort? Drain the kettle with fire drum still lit? OR put the fire out then cool? Tell me your not planning on moving a full boiling hot kettle.

I have few ideas. This one is not the ideal fix but I'd either keep the top of the drum sealed and put the kettle on top. I'm sure that would take some reinforcement of the drum for the weight and heat together will make that drum sag. The good part is no smoke billowing over the kettle. Now, you would still have solve the cooling issue.

I think the best way is to cut a hole in the side of the drum and put the side of the kettle in it. I've seen some still setups that use wood and they all build a Dutch oven looking thing with rocks and bricks. Which side heats the still. I'm sure you will lose some efficiency in heating but you can control were the smoke exhaust is going.
 
This is so badass, I love the idea of using wood for as many processes as possible.
 
I have a few concerns.

First I think there is there a potential for the wort to take on a smoked flavor. Will the boil kettle and the fire drum be welded together or sealed? If the smoke is leaking up around the kettle, I think you will have issues with unwanted smoke flavors. I don't think it will be an issue when the wort is boiling because the steam should protect the wort. Cooling and pre-boil are potential smoke contamination times.

Which leads me into the next concern, how do you plan on cooling the wort? Drain the kettle with fire drum still lit? OR put the fire out then cool? Tell me your not planning on moving a full boiling hot kettle.

I have few ideas. This one is not the ideal fix but I'd either keep the top of the drum sealed and put the kettle on top. I'm sure that would take some reinforcement of the drum for the weight and heat together will make that drum sag. The good part is no smoke billowing over the kettle. Now, you would still have solve the cooling issue.

I think the best way is to cut a hole in the side of the drum and put the side of the kettle in it. I've seen some still setups that use wood and they all build a Dutch oven looking thing with rocks and bricks. Which side heats the still. I'm sure you will lose some efficiency in heating but you can control were the smoke exhaust is going.

Depending upon the size of the boil kettle, it can be done quite safely and easily. I boil in a 15 gallon kettle fire five gallon batches. Carrying six gallons with that much headspace is not an issue at all.
 
Depending upon the size of the boil kettle, it can be done quite safely and easily. I boil in a 15 gallon kettle fire five gallon batches. Carrying six gallons with that much headspace is not an issue at all.

Sounds like carrying around 5 gallons of napalm to me. One misstep and you are in a burn unit for months (exaggerating a little maybe). It may sound safe to you but no to me. What does a 15 gallon kettle and 5 gallons of 212 degree wort weight? 50 pounds?
 
Sounds like carrying around 5 gallons of napalm to me. One misstep and you are in a burn unit for months (exaggerating a little maybe). It may sound safe to you but no to me. What does a 15 gallon kettle and 5 gallons of 212 degree wort weight? 50 pounds?

Yeah, probably 50-60 pounds. If I were doing larger 10+ gallon batches, I wouldn't be moving them like that. But five gallon batches are no problem. In the kitchen my wife regularly moves 1.5 or better batches of soup, spaghetti water, etc. She didn't give that much of a thought, as do most people. I could just as easily say that one misstep could lead to a burn unit in that case too.
 
I have a few concerns.

First I think there is there a potential for the wort to take on a smoked flavor. Will the boil kettle and the fire drum be welded together or sealed? If the smoke is leaking up around the kettle, I think you will have issues with unwanted smoke flavors. I don't think it will be an issue when the wort is boiling because the steam should protect the wort. Cooling and pre-boil are potential smoke contamination times.

Which leads me into the next concern, how do you plan on cooling the wort? Drain the kettle with fire drum still lit? OR put the fire out then cool? Tell me your not planning on moving a full boiling hot kettle.

The kettle will "nest" into the top of the drum. The drum lid will be clamped in place. As far as the smoke leaking around the kettle, my plan was to purchase some 5/8" Dia. Stove Gasket and just shove it in the gap. This will reduce the amount of smoke spillage.

The kettle will have a valve spout on the front allowing me to join it with a 12v march pump and counterflow chiller. As far as the firebox, I'm working up a design that would incorporate some linear slides that would allow me to literally slide the firebox (and fire) out of the drum if needed. this would also allow me to build the fire outside of the drum.

I have few ideas. This one is not the ideal fix but I'd either keep the top of the drum sealed and put the kettle on top. I'm sure that would take some reinforcement of the drum for the weight and heat together will make that drum sag. The good part is no smoke billowing over the kettle. Now, you would still have solve the cooling issue.

I think the best way is to cut a hole in the side of the drum and put the side of the kettle in it. I've seen some still setups that use wood and they all build a Dutch oven looking thing with rocks and bricks. Which side heats the still. I'm sure you will lose some efficiency in heating but you can control were the smoke exhaust is going.

I've tried to stay clear of adding a thermal mass, which will not be the case with my MLT Herms set up that will also be wood fired. As soon as I have more design work done, I'll put up a few more screen shots.
 

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