Hey all, I am working on putting together a small proof-of-concept controller for a local brewer based on some parts he had purchased. I've put together my own Electric Brewing controller (their BIAB kit) and built a few control boxes based on STC-1000s, but I wouldn't call myself an expert by any means. At the moment, I've got a temperature controller that I would like to control a Asco shutoff valve with.
Parts:
Solo SL4848-RR Temperator Controller
Asco Red-Hat II Shutoff Valve, 8210G009
I think he (the brewer) was under the impression that the PID could be hooked up directly to the shutoff valve. According to the controller quick start guide, the output for this unit is "Relay - SPST". My limited understanding is that this means the controller should be hooked up to either an intermediate SSR or a Contactor, which would then be connected to the valve itself. On top of that, it's much cheaper to replace a relay than a controller if something blows. Based on my reading, an SSR would be better than a contactor normally with temperature control due to higher precision. I don't know if that makes sense in this case though, since the valve will either be open or closed (not throttled at 50% for example, like a ULWD electric element).
I took a few pictures, but had problems uploading them to the post. I've uploaded them to imgur here: https://imgur.com/a/I0R9g
Any feedback is appreciated. I'm wondering if it's as simple as buying a cheap inkbird SSR on Amazon and hooking things up, or if there are things I'm not considering (probably!).
Parts:
Solo SL4848-RR Temperator Controller
Asco Red-Hat II Shutoff Valve, 8210G009
I think he (the brewer) was under the impression that the PID could be hooked up directly to the shutoff valve. According to the controller quick start guide, the output for this unit is "Relay - SPST". My limited understanding is that this means the controller should be hooked up to either an intermediate SSR or a Contactor, which would then be connected to the valve itself. On top of that, it's much cheaper to replace a relay than a controller if something blows. Based on my reading, an SSR would be better than a contactor normally with temperature control due to higher precision. I don't know if that makes sense in this case though, since the valve will either be open or closed (not throttled at 50% for example, like a ULWD electric element).
I took a few pictures, but had problems uploading them to the post. I've uploaded them to imgur here: https://imgur.com/a/I0R9g
Any feedback is appreciated. I'm wondering if it's as simple as buying a cheap inkbird SSR on Amazon and hooking things up, or if there are things I'm not considering (probably!).