Will better brew techniques decrease conditioning time?

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Ok, I've heard of this a bit but I haven't tried it. Do you just add a pack of safale to your bottling bucket with your sugar when you're about to rack? It almost sounds like a little expensive if you do this with all your beers but if you only do it to, say 1.060 and above beers, maybe this ain't too bad of an idea ;)

A full packet is far more than you need. One gram of rehydrated dry yeast per 5 gallons is enough. Rehydrating ensures that you maximize viability, and that you can get the yeast evenly mixed into the bottling bucket.

When I do this I try to time it so that bottling day coincides with another brew day, and use the other 10 g of yeast on the new batch. I also use Nottingham - it's much more flocculent than US-05, and also cheaper.
 
Thanks, that's pretty cool! I'll be trying this out with my Saison tomorrow, so we'll see how it goes!

Cheers!
 
Just a thought- maybe it's taking longer for off-flavors (from too-low pitching rates and too-high fermentation temps) to smooth out?

But overall, you should be drinking good beer a month after brew day.

Yes, this is what I was asking about in the first place. I wanted to evaluate my process and see what factors I should focus on the most that could make a difference in my beer the quickest. And I do have room for improvement in temp control as well as pitching rates.

Other flaws I would like to fix in my process are poor vorlauf and not straining wort going into fermenter, and also long cold crashing periods (still don't have a chiller). But I wondered, where should these priorities be ranked??
 
Yes, this is what I was asking about in the first place. I wanted to evaluate my process and see what factors I should focus on the most that could make a difference in my beer the quickest. And I do have room for improvement in temp control as well as pitching rates.

Other flaws I would like to fix in my process are poor vorlauf and not straining wort going into fermenter, and also long cold crashing periods (still don't have a chiller). But I wondered, where should these priorities be ranked??

In my opinion? I'd rank it like this:

1. Fermentation temperature control, including pitching at 65 degrees or less for ales- no higher!
2. Proper yeast pitching rate
3. Quality ingredients
4. Good water
5. Everything else. I don't "cold crash" or use finings and my beer is fine. My vorlaufing is ok, and I don't strain my wort going into the fermenter, unless I have a ton of leaf hops that will clog my pump.
 
And the problem is, that most of the time I only have maybe 6 or so bottles left when we realize that, holy crap, this beer is damn good!

Brew more.

The first three batches I made were good, but I wound up drinking them before they had fully matured and ran into the same situation where the last few bottles were excellent. My father is a huge beer fan and so are a few buddies; all will have a session EVERY NIGHT. So I ran into a problem with keeping a quantity around of good brew.

So I decided that I needed to change something up. I brewed up four 5 gallon batches in four days, IPA, american wheat, a dubbel, and a wit. I bought an extra glass carboy and went cheapo with two plastic food grade buckets from sysco. After they had fermented to a stable target FG, I bottled them and put them away for about a month. With 20 gallons in reserve stores, I had enough to last me for a little while. I kept brewing once every two weks, trying to keep production levels up. I bought over 100 bombers for bottling before I broke down and bought a corny keg system.

For me, it was a matter of producing enough, setting it aside, and keeping up a brewing schedule. Plastic buckets are super cheap, blow-off tube assembly is super cheap, so if my fermentation vessels are tied-up, just a trip down to home creepo and sysco and less than $10 later, I am ready to brew.

I have decent fermentation temperatures in my basement, about 68F, even when it is over 90F here in CO. When I brew a Belgian ale, I just throw the fermentation chamber out in the garage and let the high fermentation temps do their work. I dont worry about off-flavors and so far, it has worked out great. I use starters, throwing the yeast in a Nalgene bottle with some DME two days before brewing. I quickly throw the Nalgene bottle in StarSan. I have made 23 batches of beer since I started.

Other flaws I would like to fix in my process are poor vorlauf and not straining wort going into fermenter, and also long cold crashing periods (still don't have a chiller). But I wondered, where should these priorities be ranked??

Straining the wort before going into the fermentation vessel is not a major priority in my opinion, but this is qualified in that you should strain to a certain degree. On my first few batches, I screwed around with some stupidly small sieves (strainers) in order to attempt a clear beer. What a dummy. And I used to be a chemist! I did not think about the fermentation chemistry and biology cycle of the yeast. So I dumped the lab sieves and bought a everyday kitchen strainer dedicated to filtering out particles that were larger than 1/16".

As for bringing the wort down to pitching temps, I used to be really anal about this, worrying about it, which was useless. Now I make ice blocks in my chest freezer the night before, using plastic containers from walmart. I found some organizer bins, about 1' x 8" x 5", make up 8 of em. I just take my wort in the SS pot and throw it in my SS sink in an ice bath with the broken blocks. I put the lid on the wort pot, throw a sanitized towel over it, so capillary action pulls water up, and turn on a box fan to push air over it. Works great.
 
As for bringing the wort down to pitching temps, I used to be really anal about this, worrying about it, which was useless. Now I make ice blocks in my chest freezer the night before, using plastic containers from walmart. I found some organizer bins, about 1' x 8" x 5", make up 8 of em. I just take my wort in the SS pot and throw it in my SS sink in an ice bath with the broken blocks. I put the lid on the wort pot, throw a sanitized towel over it, so capillary action pulls water up, and turn on a box fan to push air over it. Works great.

Hey Borane and Yooper, thanks for the great replies! I think my straining worries are due to how bad I think my AG set up filters out grist and grain. I vorlauf as carefully as possible and still get a ton of junk in my wort. I think I'll get a new SS braided hose for my mash tun and try that (the old one is a little beat up). And I'm gonna try a new year's resolution in July and resolve to pitch enough healthy yeast every time all the time from now on.

The only real problem I still think I'll have will be ferm temps. I can keep em close to 70 for a few days to a week, but changing out ice blocks for the duration of the wort being in the carboy (3 weeks to 2 months?) will always be tough. If I leave beer unattended for 1 day in ice tub, it will raise from 70 to 76 or so degrees. It's very hard for me to keep low temps consistent in my house with this setup and I have been hoping that temp control was only really important for the time it takes to go through primary fermentation ( 1 week or so). But, I do try to keep it consistent for the first week
 
And Borane, that was a pretty cool method for cool down of wort if it works. How long does it usually take you to get 5.5 gallons down to pitching temps with that method??
 
...The only real problem I still think I'll have will be ferm temps. ... If I leave beer unattended for 1 day in ice tub, it will raise from 70 to 76 or so degrees...

So many threads to look thru - but there is one out there that was cool, and I did it too for a while until I moved on -

Do you have room for two ice chests? Buy the Johnson or Ranco ($60-70) and a small pond pump ($20 or less). One ice chest is filled with ice water and frozen gallon jugs. and the pump. the other holds your fermenter in a water bath. When the probe (stuck next to your fermenter) clicks on, it fires up the pump, shipping ice cold water to the fermentation cooler. Fermenting cooler should have a "return" hose from it's outlet to the outlet of the ice water. Voila - automation.
Each morning before work, put a frozen gallon - or two - into the ice water side. Each day you come home, swap them out...

When/if you go to a fridge for fermenting, you already have the controller...
 
When co2 levels rise enough it can become toxic to the yeast, so swirling, gently stirring or degassing can actually help the yeast attenuate fully, especially in higher gravity beers.

Wouldn't the c02 vent out the airlock before it ever became too toxic?
 
What do y'all mean by pitch rate? I got the pitch temp part down.

Pitch Rates refer to the amount of yeast. Try here for an online calculator.


Wouldn't the c02 vent out the airlock before it ever became too toxic?


CO2 also stays in suspension in the beer. True, much of it escapes, - most of it!- but there is also alcohol being produced - the toxicity to yeast is probably more directly related to alcohol volumes than CO2, although the presence of CO2 also contributes to acidity, which may not be yeast friendly.
 
CO2 also stays in suspension in the beer. True, much of it escapes, - most of it!- but there is also alcohol being produced - the toxicity to yeast is probably more directly related to alcohol volumes than CO2, although the presence of CO2 also contributes to acidity, which may not be yeast friendly.

I thought acidity is yeast friendly, at least for healthy yeast - its used to wash yeast and only kills off weak yeast cells and bacteria.
 
The only real problem I still think I'll have will be ferm temps. I can keep em close to 70 for a few days to a week, but changing out ice blocks for the duration of the wort being in the carboy (3 weeks to 2 months?) will always be tough. If I leave beer unattended for 1 day in ice tub, it will raise from 70 to 76 or so degrees. It's very hard for me to keep low temps consistent in my house with this setup and I have been hoping that temp control was only really important for the time it takes to go through primary fermentation ( 1 week or so). But, I do try to keep it consistent for the first week

If you have space for a cooler, I'd definitely recommend this for a cheap and easy ferm cooler setup: http://bayareamashers.org/gadgets/Dave's Cheap n Easy fermentation chiller.pdf

Someone on HBT recommended this a while back (DeathBrewer?), and it works pretty well. If it's hot as hell where you are, just freeze more and/or bigger water bottles to keep swapping out. Not sure if it'll fit your situation, but it's a good place to start.
 
Thanks Mk, I'm gonna try that out! Looks easier than what I've been designing and easy is always best, right?

Cheers
 
Unless your doing a high ABV or using Bret, Lacto or Pedio most ale beers can be ready in 3 weeks with no "green flavor". I firmly believe in pitching two vials for 5 gallon or stepping up 1 with a stir plate. Don't get me wrong, you can ferment a batch with 1 vial and i did for a long time, but it will take longer to condition. Also I use pure O2 for oxygenating and I never transfer to a secondary unless I'm dry hopping, using fruit or aging for an extended period of time. When the beer is almost done fermenting I'll do a diacetyl rest and let the yeast clean up after themselves. Then I'll cold crash it for a few days and then keg it. Ready to drink in about a week. Sorry for the long winded response, just trying to describe my process. One thing I forgot, fermentation temp control is very important.
 
Yeah, just adding a very clean yeast. It is obviously an additional expense (unless you have washed yeast on hand) however as you point out, really only makes sense for bigger beers.

It's not that you can't depend upon the original yeast to carb and condition, but the extra support helps speed that along. So to that end, it's not a necessary step.

Can I just pour the yeast from the bottom of a few bottle conditioned bottles into the bottling bucket to serve this purpose, or do I need to actually add "real" yeast? I'm about to bottle an 8% imperial IPA and I want to be able to drink it 1-2 weeks later.
 
Add fresh dry yeast. I sprinkle in a gram of T-58 (not clean) into the bottling bucket as it racks. Fresh dry yeast have all the nutrients they need. They don't even need any oxygen. The will get the easy job of two SG points done in less than a week in any green beer less than 7%. Even a Belgian strain like T-58 will have no effect on the overall flavor of the finished beer. Every ribbon I've won was done that way and the common complaint was the beer was too clean.
 
Add fresh dry yeast. I sprinkle in a gram of T-58 (not clean) into the bottling bucket as it racks.

Ok, so fresh dry yeast it is. But if I'm only adding one gram at a time, what's the best way to keep the remainder so that I can use it again and again for the next batches?

Can I put the other 10 grams in a bag and store it in the freezer? Will it be ok in a sealed bag in my pantry at room temp?
 
Put it in a air tight bag in the fridge.

Cool. Thanks. I'm glad I started this thread because I definitely picked up a couple things that I think will help my brews condition a little faster. But if they take 6 months,they take 6 months. C'est la vie, right?

Cheers
 

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