Why won't this work?

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cha ngo

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If I dough-in at 170dF, use a single infusion mash and sparge at the same temp, why can't I use a water heater set to 170 as my HLT? I am brewing 20 gallon batches.
 
Yuri_Rage said:
Temps above 168 tend to stop enzymatic action. I think you're asking for poor conversion with that method.
On the sparge side? The temperature drop at dough-in puts me right in the 155 range. Am I mashing or sparging too hot?
 
Disregard then, I thought your target mash temp was 170. I don't see why your method won't work if you can find a hot water heater that'll get that hot.
 
Yuri_Rage said:
if you can find a hot water heater that'll get that hot.
Good point. It looks like domestic heaters have a set limit of 160. Commercial ones would do the job, but are too expensive (new). I wonder if there is a way to override the max setting on a domestic water heater . . .
 
There's always a way... You could bypass the thermostat completely and/or install an aftermarket temperature controller like the Ranco or Johnson controllers.
 
Yuri_Rage said:
There's always a way... You could bypass the thermostat completely and/or install an aftermarket temperature controller like the Ranco or Johnson controllers.

Make sure the extra current (assuming it's electric) won't overload anything. I'm sure you don't want a fire!

If it's gas, yeah, mo' gas = mo' heat, go for it :)
 
MattD said:
Make sure the extra current (assuming it's electric) won't overload anything. I'm sure you don't want a fire!

If it's gas, yeah, mo' gas = mo' heat, go for it :)
Connected correctly, a thermostat is just a switch. The digital controllers draw VERY little current, so you shouldn't run the risk of overloading a circuit unless you mis-wire something.
 
Good point, I tend to think in analog terms, but the heater coils are just cycled on and off. I'd still want to make sure there were no components that could be damaged by the additional heat, but 10F shouldn't matter one iota.
 
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