Why I absolutly hate Harbor Freight

[Tobor_8thMan]

The following is not strictly brewing equipment, but equipment related to and used with brewing. If I've posted to the wrong forum, please move this post to the correct forum.

I have separate tools used on brewing equipment than for general household work. These include screw drivers, wrenches, etc. Maybe an "overkill", but I've used all my regular household tools for many things over the years including working on cars, fixing lawn mowers, working on bicycles, household repair, garage repair, etc... etc... etc... Just doesn't feel right to me using these tools anywhere near by brewing equipment.

Recently I needed a 2.5 mm hex wrench to tighten the coupler between the mill moter and the mill. Used a Kobalt household hex key set I purchased from Lowes a few years ago. Yes, I've used the Kobalt set for bike repairs/tweaks, but I didn't have the metric size needed for the coupler so I used the Kobalt hex key. Never had an issue. Also, never had an issue using the Kobalt hex keys to tighten the crap out of things.

Was recently near a Harbor Freight and, against my better judgement, purchased a set of standard and hex keys.

Used the Harbor Freight 2.5mm hex key for the first time today. Barely turned it in the coupler screw and it snaps off. A piece of the 2.5mm hex key is stuck in the coupler screw. Luckily, the coupler screw is tight and I was able to mill as planned. Nothing similar ever happened with the Kobalt set.

Now, of course, I can't remove the coupler from the shaft as part of the 2.5mm hex key shaft is in the top of the coupler screw.

Harbor Freight, IMO, equals junk, junk, junk. Doesn't matter if there is a 20% off coupon, a 40% off coupon or even a 100% off coupon, Harbor Freight is junk. Harbor Freight items are just inferior quality. Probably Chinese junk.

Now, my second problem. How to remove the bit of 2.5mm hex shaft in the screw of the coupler? I tried to reverse drill the 2.5mm kex key shaft stuck in the coupler screw using the smallest drill bit available. No luck.

I was hoping to be able to turn the 2.5mm hex shaft with needle nose pliers, but the break is flush with the top of the coupler screw.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[CodeSection]

I wonder if an appropriate sized screw extractor would work. I would think it would be able to take hold of it so that you could remove it.

Good luck!

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Hmm... I'm hoping to not damage the coupler screw, only remove the broken hex shaft part. With the shaft broken off level to the screw it's difficult drilling, etc into the broken piece. Only if the broken off piece was a bit lower. Or, even better, only if the da*m Harbor Freight junk didn't break. Or, even best, I never wasted my money on the Harbor Freight junk.

Going the screw extractor route I'd need to find a 2.5mm screw extractor.

 

[CodeSection]

Home Depot and Lowes carry individuals sizes and kits with various sizes.

They have always worked for me when trying to remove a screw of something where I needed to drill into it to remove it since the head broke off.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

I wish I was able to get the couple off the mill shaft to take it with me to Home Depot, Lowes, et al.

Also, at least around here, people working at Home Depot or Lowes are dumber than bricks. My experience. Close you eyes, point and walk. What you touch is better than the "help" you'll get at either place.

I am looking online, right now, at Home Depot and Lowes, for 2.5mm screw extractors. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[bleme]

Harbor Freight has screw extractor kits for real cheap too!

 

[CodeSection]

Each of those stores carry hex wrenches. So, I would just go there and look at a 2.5 mm hex wrench and search for the appropriate screw extractor size that can drill into it.

The extractors come in different sizes. I’m not sure if they are necessarily marked for any particular screw size since they are tapered.

You’ll find what you need....

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Harbor Freight has screw extractor kits for real cheap too!

Doh!

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Each of those stores carry hex wrenches. So, I would just go there and look at a 2.5 mm hex wrench and search for the appropriate screw extractor size that can drill into it.

The extractors come in different sizes. I’m not sure if they are necessarily marked for any particular screw size since they are tapered.

You’ll find what you need....

Since the hex shaft is broken off level to the coupler, how to keep the drill from slipping?

 

[CodeSection]

Got a pic? Can you “punch” (lightly of course) a small starter hole/dent? Depending upon how small a screw extractor you buy, you might not have trouble drilling. Start slow of course.

I guess you could use a small washer to frame the area so the extractor doesn’t slip off into the coupler.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

There is nothing to "grab" onto. The front face of the coupler screw is visible. The side and back are enclosed by the coupler. If I could "grab" the couple screw I probably could extract using needle nose pliers.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

As requested, coupler stuck on shaft due to hex key breaking off.

 

[501irishred]

Nothing is impossible, but it sounds like an uphill battle for sure. “IF” you can find an easy out small enough for that set screw, you will still need to drill a hole through what’s left of the wrench. It sounds like that hex wrench was very hard (the fact it broke) and may prove near impossible to drill.
You may be looking at using a dremel tool or similar to cut off coupler off the shaft, and get a new coupler.......... and yes, harbor freight sells rotory tools and cutoff wheels too, I’d suggest using safety glasses from anywhere else!

 

[brewingmeister]

Guess this will teach you not to have separate tools eh?

If the coupler is where you want it and tight why are we even trying to take it off?

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Guess this will teach you not to have separate tools eh?

If the coupler is where you want it and tight why are we even trying to take it off?

I completely clean everything after using. Working so far as I've never had any infections/problems, etc. Brewing since 1995. Empirical evidence enough for me.

 

[brewingmeister]

Ok whatever works for ya but why do you need to get the coupler off?

I anally completely clean things after using. Working so far as I've never had any infections/problems, etc. Brewing since 1995. Empirical evidence enough for me.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Ok whatever works for ya but why do you need to get the coupler off?

You do have a good point and I basically came to accept I'll leave the coupler on the shaft until it loosens, from use, overtime. Hopefully, then I can remove it.

 

[brewingmeister]

Yeah, then just replace the screw.

If you absolutely have to uncouple the coupler I'd set it screw side down on a workbench and wack the crap out of it with a hammer.(use your brewing hammer) Hold the mill so just the coupler is on the bench so you don't damage the shaft or bearings. This is of course if a magnet or a pick wouldn't get it out.

 

[November]

Have you tried heating up the screw with a torch? Might expand it enough to let the broken piece fall free with a rap or two.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Have you tried heating up the screw with a torch? Might expand it enough to let the broken piece fall free with a rap or two.

Interesting idea. However, won't expanding simply cause the broken shaft to become tighter? Perhaps, I should, somehow, make it cold.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Yeah, then just replace the screw.

If you absolutely have to uncouple the coupler I'd set it screw side down on a workbench and wack the crap out of it with a hammer.(use your brewing hammer) Hold the mill so just the coupler is on the bench so you don't damage the shaft or bearings. This is of course if a magnet or a pick wouldn't get it out.

I also considered the same. I am, however, very concerned about damaging the shaft. Of course, I finally have the MM3 gap set correctly. Figures.

I wish a magnet would extract the broken hex shaft. No such luck.

 

[501irishred]

Interesting idea. However, won't expanding simply cause the broken shaft to become tighter? Perhaps, I should, somehow, make it cold.

If by some miracle you get it drilled out for an easy out, your right. You’d want to heat the coupler then cool what’s left of the screw.

 

[November]

Interesting idea. However, won't expanding simply cause the broken shaft to become tighter? Perhaps, I should, somehow, make it cold.

They won't heat at the same rate depending on how you heat it. I snapped the bolt head off of my grain mill. I was able to get a hold of a piece of it but not enough to turn it. I heated the exterior and then was able to unscrew it with what little bit I was able to grasp.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

They won't heat at the same rate depending on how you heat it. I snapped the bolt head off of my grain mill. I was able to get a hold of a piece of it but not enough to turn it. I heated the exterior and then was able to unscrew it with what little bit I was able to grasp.

Interesting... thanks.

 

[passedpawn]

Interesting idea. However, won't expanding simply cause the broken shaft to become tighter? Perhaps, I should, somehow, make it cold.

The inner diameter of the hex socket will expand. Heat the coupler and it might release the broken allen key.

Why doesn't it just fall out? Have you tried a magnet?

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

The inner diameter of the hex socket will expand. Heat the coupler and it might release the broken allen key.

Why doesn't it just fall out? Have you tried a magnet?

Unfortunately, it is stuck.

 

[logdrum]

If you have an auto punch, you might try aiming it diagonally w the force directed ccw & fire that a couple of times. Or even create a little lip to use a chisel to work it out. Good Luck!

 

[Bobby_M]

Cut a slice into the whole screw with a thin dremel cutoff wheel. Then use a screw driver to back it out. The coupler will be a little slotted but still functional.

 

[SoulToast]

Heat can definitely work to get metal bits unstuck. Was doing some work on a vintage motorcycle and had a bolt that just wasn't having it.

Heat on high for about a minute, then rest. Repeat a few times and it finally broke loose. Although that also involved some penetrating oil and about a week of hitting with heat and oil...( it was too cold to ride anyway...)

A couple of heat cycles may allow the broken bit to drop out with a nice whack on the side of your bench. They're definitely different metals. You may be able to dislodge it with a pick. It's likely just wedged and needs a little persuading.

Nice radio, btw.
(KK4VRW)

 

[grampamark]

@BobbyM has the best suggestion.

I’m a lifelong tool user; an actual, trained, professional. I consider myself a technician. You know, one of the people who make the things designed by engineers actually work.

The quality of tools, of any kind, has declined markedly in the last 10-15 years. I don’t care what brand it is or how much it cost, it probably was built, at least in part, somewhere overseas. The tools from HF and the tools from the big box home stores probably came from the same place. And, in the case of hex wrenches, the little, short arm-long arm sets, especially in the smaller sizes, are notoriously fragile. Add to that the fact that the quality of fasteners ain’t what it used to be, either.

The hex head screw that gave the OP and his Allen wrench grief might have needed a 2.5 mm wrench or a 5/64” wrench or a 3/32” wrench. The Allen wrench had a weak point (the 90° bend) and the fit wasn’t perfect. An interference fit is an amazing thing. The wrench broke and the poor fit wedged the short end of the wrench into the head of the fastener. That’s why the broken piece wouldn’t fall out.

I keep straight hex drivers with either 1/4” or 3/8” square drives around to use on hex head fasteners. They cost a little more but are well worth it.

 

[day_trippr]

I bet someone with a mig welder could sneak in a tack weld to a bolt and let you run the whole screw out...

Cheers!

 

[S-Met]

A tiny dab of Gorilla glue an an overnight cure while the other side of the hex wrench bonds. Pull straight out.

 

[kh54s10]

While Harbor Freight sells very cheap and possibly inferior products, you should know this and beware.... I have had great luck with their products. For strength tools I look elsewhere. For a drill for my roller mill I have one that has milled a couple hundred pounds of grain better than a couple other drills that I have. You just need to use judgement and buy for the project on deck.

You made a bad choice. You should have used a more quality product for the application. That doesn't really reflect badly on Harbor Freight, IMO.

 

[ba-brewer]

maybe one of those rare earth magnets will pull it out.

If it swedged in when it broke maybe try remating the two pieces to wiggle it back into alignment and it might just fall out.

 

[IslandLizard]

As a few others already said, it's jammed inside the hex, you just need to unjam it. The hex bolt may or may not survive the operation.
Bobby's idea, cutting a slit in the broken off hex stub with a small diameter dremel wheel sounds like the best method to try first.

Oh, and use some WD-40. That may actually all that's needed to unjam it. Then tap-tap between the hex head and the broken stub with a small chisel or screwdriver.

 

[applescrap]

Hubba bubba, maybe some gum could grab it and pull it out if you get it loose. Like the dremel idea and also epoxy it back togeher and try to pull it out. Or just leave it, if it aint hurting anything maybe just live with it. Drive a screw into it a little and pull it out? Would that work?

I feel you, I dont like cheap tools either. Sometimes it fits the job often, not. They do have varying levels in there and my impact sockets have been reliable. But what happened to you or a poor job usually ends up happening.

 

[Soulshine2]

The following is not strictly brewing equipment, but equipment related to and used with brewing. If I've posted to the wrong forum, please move this post to the correct forum.

I have separate tools used on brewing equipment than for general household work. These include screw drivers, wrenches, etc. Maybe an "overkill", but I've used all my regular household tools for many things over the years including working on cars, fixing lawn mowers, working on bicycles, household repair, garage repair, etc... etc... etc... Just doesn't feel right to me using these tools anywhere near by brewing equipment.

Recently I needed a 2.5 mm hex wrench to tighten the coupler between the mill moter and the mill. Used a Kobalt household hex key set I purchased from Lowes a few years ago. Yes, I've used the Kobalt set for bike repairs/tweaks, but I didn't have the metric size needed for the coupler so I used the Kobalt hex key. Never had an issue. Also, never had an issue using the Kobalt hex keys to tighten the crap out of things.

Was recently near a Harbor Freight and, against my better judgement, purchased a set of standard and hex keys.

Used the Harbor Freight 2.5mm hex key for the first time today. Barely turned it in the coupler screw and it snaps off. A piece of the 2.5mm hex key is stuck in the coupler screw. Luckily, the coupler screw is tight and I was able to mill as planned. Nothing similar ever happened with the Kobalt set.

Now, of course, I can't remove the coupler from the shaft as part of the 2.5mm hex key shaft is in the top of the coupler screw.

Harbor Freight, IMO, equals junk, junk, junk. Doesn't matter if there is a 20% off coupon, a 40% off coupon or even a 100% off coupon, Harbor Freight is junk. Harbor Freight items are just inferior quality. Probably Chinese junk.

Now, my second problem. How to remove the bit of 2.5mm hex shaft in the screw of the coupler? I tried to reverse drill the 2.5mm kex key shaft stuck in the coupler screw using the smallest drill bit available. No luck.

I was hoping to be able to turn the 2.5mm hex shaft with needle nose pliers, but the break is flush with the top of the coupler screw.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

I hear ya on HF being junk. 2.5 mm is a tiny hex/allen . I dont care who makes it , its a crap shoot to turn one that small and not break it off. I needed a set of ball-end allens and my 3 mm broke first use too. Im a Millwright and I do buy tools from HF because most of the time , their tools are fine for what I need to do. I just buy their impact grade allens and sockets and so far ,so good. Their issue is their return policy, if it came in a set , the entire set it came with has to be returned . They wont just exchange the broken one for another. A couple ideas on how to extract the broken piece....possibly, find a rare earth magnet and put it up close to it and then take a small hammer and tap the sides , maybe the vibration and jiggling will coax it out.
another thought that should work...take a dremel with a small cut off wheel and make that allen head into a straight head, then just turn it out with a standard flat screwdriver.
Its like that grade 8 bolt or tap that snaps off, then the ez out you try to back it out with snaps off too...it just gets worse as you go. Lots of luck.

 

[IslandLizard]

2.5 mm is a tiny hex/allen

Yup, that's probably too small for the job. But there's not much choice in flush/snagless bolt heads that size either. Although should one expect the allen wrench to snap off a tad higher up?

 

[IslandLizard]

I won't go into details, but it took around 3 days over 2 weeks, off and on, trying to remove the speedometer sensor from the transmission case on my Mercury Villager, using a sharpened stubby screwdriver (of Sears fame), a wooden wedge, hammer, etc. I still think it was liberal use of WD-40 that ultimately allowed it to ease up. Aluminum inside aluminum for 16 years.

 

[Jayjay1976]

The HF hex key material should be soft enough to drill seeing as how it snapped off in the first place. I'd just drill a hole down the center large enough to remove most of the material. Then slip the other end of the drill bit into the hole and wiggle it, just a little bit. Hit it with a few drops of WD-40, PB Blaster, or Kroil before you drill; the heat generated by drilling will draw the oil in and help free it.